Clamping Pipe to Concrete

[Pablo]

I am running some 3/4" PVC along an outside poured concrete foundation.

Seems I got the plumbing part figured out, but the mechanics of some type of clamp and fastener to concrete, well I just have never done that before.

Clamps? Concrete nails? Drill and anchors?

I am open to input here!

 

[Leo99]

Can't say it's the best way, but on my house interior they used this metal hanger strips and concrete screws. Don't know if it's suitable for exterior use.

 

[ecotourist]

I'd drill the concrete and use anchors.

Could buy metal fittings to go on top of the pipe, or make fittings out of sheet aluminum to surround the pipe.

 

[thastinger]

The blue concrete screws and 3/4 U shaped pipe clamps

 

[ecotourist]

Can't say it's the best way, but on my house interior they used this metal hanger strips and concrete screws. Don't know if it's suitable for exterior use.

View attachment 215891

You can get strapping made out of different materials. Galvanized steel would be okay but copper (and brass screws) might be better.

 

[JohnnyG]

It depends on your requirements. Here are two examples on my house, and how they've held up after 30 years of outdoor exposure here in Florida, by the sea. Granted, these are on 1/2" flexible conduit, but the principal is the same. Galvanized will eventually rust but the plastic seems fine. If you use a proper stainless screw, and plastic anchors in the concrete, there's not much to corrode.

 

[burbguy82]

The most proper way to do this would be with split rings and stand off plates. PVC is supposed to be supported every 4 feet at max.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Piers-HSH-G34-3-4-Electro-Galvanized-Split-Ring-Extension-Hanger

ensure that you get 3/4 IPS not CTS size

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-GVPL038T-3-8-Electro-Galvanized-Ceiling-Plate?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_withoutdata&utm_campaign=Shopping_Without_PLTV_data&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw26KxBhBDEiwAu6KXt31iPUkLRfldQkdAXd7_kmCwaTHuqTdqcpZzEsbxgSTuHKYwqq7i7xoCVjYQAvD_BwE

with 3\8 threaded rod to make up the length between the two.

This method allows the pipe to be remotely installed from the concrete, to allow for repair and painting or insulation.

this would be the most common professional method

of course you would need to install screws via hammerdrilling or drive pins

https://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-7102CX-10-x-1-1-4-Plastic-Anchor-Kit-with-Drill-Bits-100-Screws-Anchors

or similar....for the above, the proper bit size is 1\4

 

[97prizm]

I am running some 3/4" PVC along an outside poured concrete foundation.

Seems I got the plumbing part figured out, but the mechanics of some type of clamp and fastener to concrete, well I just have never done that before.

Clamps? Concrete nails? Drill and anchors?

I am open to input here!

A couple of my neighbors have done this. Apparently it's called "plumbers tape" but it is a roll of metal with holes that straps over the pvc pipe. Then just use screws or anchors to hold down.

 

[Reggaemon]

That strapping looks bad. I'd only use it if it was in a location no one could see.

 

[doitmyself]

The blue concrete screws and 3/4 U shaped pipe clamps

This would be my choice. TapCon screws, and the single screw conduit clamp that JohnnyG shows. I would pick a clamp size that allows the pipe to expand/contract.

 

[Pablo]

This would be my choice. TapCon screws, and the single screw conduit clamp that JohnnyG shows. I would pick a clamp size that allows the pipe to expand/contract.
View attachment 215935

Only for summer irrigation, will be in mostly shade. Those are what I have used for electrical conduit. They should still work without too much sag on hot days, every 3 feet or so.

Are concrete nails even an option or is a Plaslode type gun required? Trying to be quick but boring 1/4" holes with hamma drill not that hard. It's about 60 feet of run o so.

 

[doitmyself]

I simply have a personal bias against the concrete nails. Just for fun, I attempted using short ones with a hammer and it was a complete fail. The concrete surface spalled/cracked/broke off in chunks.

On my last porch rail anchoring project that required concrete drilling, I learned how blissfully better a rotary hammer drill is vs. a regular hammer drill, especially in poured concrete where you may hit stones.

 

[burbguy82]

concrete nails are for framing, more specifically for attaching plates of wall to green concrete

 

[burbguy82]

I simply have a personal bias against the concrete nails. Just for fun, I attempted using short ones with a hammer and it was a complete fail. The concrete surface spalled/cracked/broke off in chunks.

On my last porch rail anchoring project that required concrete drilling, I learned how blissfully better a rotary hammer drill is vs. a regular hammer drill, especially in poured concrete where you may hit stones.

really, for anything bigger than 1\4 inch holes for anchors, an SDS is the way to go, or a rotary hammer as you put it............anything else is a waste of time and sweat.

 

[Pablo]

I hear you guys, I have put larger anchors in concrete for structures and even my gate, I will hamma drill. No worries.

I ordered the stuff above. Thanks! I will run the pipe tomorrow and just block it up until the parts show. Oh yeah bought a couple extra 1/4" masonry/concrete bits. Thanks again!!!

 

[IndyIan]

really, for anything bigger than 1\4 inch holes for anchors, an SDS is the way to go, or a rotary hammer as you put it............anything else is a waste of time and sweat.

Should need a bit less than a 1/4" hole and not too many for anchoring some pipe, just buzz away with a hammer drill. Not super fun but probably much faster than going and renting something.
In my silly younger years I put a couple 6" holes through our poured concrete foundation using a 1/2" hammer drill and a masonry chisel... In hindsight renting some more firepower would've been a good idea!

 

[burbguy82]

Should need a bit less than a 1/4" hole and not too many for anchoring some pipe, just buzz away with a hammer drill. Not super fun but probably much faster than going and renting something.
In my silly younger years I put a couple 6" holes through our poured concrete foundation using a 1/2" hammer drill and a masonry chisel... In hindsight renting some more firepower would've been a good idea!

core drill for sure

 

[doitmyself]

Should need a bit less than a 1/4" hole and not too many for anchoring some pipe, just buzz away with a hammer drill. Not super fun but probably much faster than going and renting something.

I would also try just a regular hammer drill vs. renting for such a small job.

Bit sizes: "The 3/16” tapcon uses a 5/32” bit, the 1/4” tapcon needs a 3/16” diameter bit, the 3/8” tapcon requires a 5/16”, the 1/2” tapcon requires a 7/16” bit, a 5/8”tapcon needs a 1/2” bit and the 3/4” tapcon requires the use of a 5/8” carbide tipped bit."

How do I determine the size of bit needed for my Tapcon® screw?

View detailed information about how to correctly choose the right bit needed for installing tapcon screws and where to purchase.

www.confast.com

 

[dlundblad]

Will a mini conduit hanger work?

 

[Pablo]

6 plates mounted this AM before it started pouring AGAIN.

No real problems. Well except they sent 1/2" pipe hangers (split ring extension clamp type) labeled as 3/4". Already returned, correct ones on the way.

My DeWalt 20V hammer drill does just fine, even with the cheapie 1/4" bit that come with the anchors. The only thing is IF I hit a rock in the aggregate straight on, it will bore through - BUT if hits at an angle it will glance and make the hole a bit crooked, and the plate will not end up perfect level and/or the screws will fight a bit. So far haven't needed my epoxy!

A couple more comments.

Home Depot is professional. Honestly all their fittings are in the right place, lots of glue selection. All the galvanized nipples and T's and such, just right and easy.

Lowe's is a disaster. Their fitting are a complete mess. Arranged by a toddler who is a couple years from reading. They may as well throw everything in a huge box and dig around willy nilly - 3 hours later, still be half short.............ugh

Anyway the pipe is all cut and laid - weather not cooperating.