If you get a metric taper lock then you can run any size or type of pulley available in that taper lock series.
Chinese 196cc diesel engine from Amazon?
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After looking around for a bit your best bet is probably to buy a finished 20mm bore pulley. They're only like $20 on ebay.
Yes the compression release pops up on its own.
Starting the thing is easy with experience and verbatim following of the instructions. A gas engine "might" catch on its first power stroke. My unit DOES catch. Remember, it's fuel injected!
Starting the thing is easy with experience and verbatim following of the instructions. A gas engine "might" catch on its first power stroke. My unit DOES catch. Remember, it's fuel injected!
that may change when its 5*f unless you use a blow dryer or something to warm up the cylinder head first
Heat gun is better just don't burn anything.
My third Chinese diesel arrived and I did my very best to buy the elusive "thin front cover" version that's all over Youtube, even spending an extra $60 for one that pictured the thin cover and plastic air filter housing very clearly. Of course it's the same images the 2nd one had (where I rec'd a used engine), so I was very skeptical. I rec'd the same engine design as the first two with the larger front cover. I'm quite confident the other version is not for sale anymore. At least this third engine is a new one, similar to the first.
Checker J04 is a very busy guy, he checked all three of these engines, even the used one.
Why buy a third engine you might ask? I submitted a chargeback with Chase (Amazon's credit card issuer) for the 2nd engine (the used one) I received. He took down my description of the problem, they had me submit photos, and within a day or two the seller refunded my money and didn't ask for the product back.
I have some photos evidence showing the difference between a used engine and new. For me, the worn (faded) throttle control knob with dirt caked inside it was the smoking gun.
Used engine:
NEW ENGINE:
Checker J04 is a very busy guy, he checked all three of these engines, even the used one.
Why buy a third engine you might ask? I submitted a chargeback with Chase (Amazon's credit card issuer) for the 2nd engine (the used one) I received. He took down my description of the problem, they had me submit photos, and within a day or two the seller refunded my money and didn't ask for the product back.
I have some photos evidence showing the difference between a used engine and new. For me, the worn (faded) throttle control knob with dirt caked inside it was the smoking gun.
Used engine:
NEW ENGINE:
Diesel roto-tiller adaptation looks like it will work out fine. I still can't find a 20mm shaft pulley that has a 2-1/2" OD. If anyone has spotted one on Amazon or the like, I'd love to know.
I'll probably have to adjust the belt length, the shaft pulley will sit taller and further to the front, this is a larger engine all the way around than the Briggs 900 series OHV it replaced. Had to weld some mounting plates to the frame so it could accommodate the larger engine, but looks like the pulleys will line up just fine using this method.
I'll probably have to adjust the belt length, the shaft pulley will sit taller and further to the front, this is a larger engine all the way around than the Briggs 900 series OHV it replaced. Had to weld some mounting plates to the frame so it could accommodate the larger engine, but looks like the pulleys will line up just fine using this method.
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Never used this seller, but it was the first one to come up. If your searching for 20mm x 2-1/2 no, you won't likely find. 2.5 inches is 63.5mm, so 60 and 70mm pulleys seem to be available
Iron Casting Double V-Groove Drive Pulley For A-Section V-Belt Pulley Ø 60-100mm | eBay
OD: 50mm 60mm 70mm 80mm 90mm 100mm 110mm 120mm 130mm 140mm 150mm. -Material:Iron Casting,A slight amount of trachoma and rust are normal conditions. -Type: Double V-Groove Drive Pulley. -Widely used: Motor drive; Diesel engine micro tillage pulley.
www.ebay.com
Fired up the new diesel engine and it has a surge to it. Sounds like a small gas engine not tuned right, it varies up and down RPM slightly no matter what the engine speed is.
Any ideas what could cause this? I thought I left fuel/air issues behind by swapping to diesel!
Any ideas what could cause this? I thought I left fuel/air issues behind by swapping to diesel!
Should still have some sort of govnenor, I'd think. Check for any springs around the pump. Might be inside though. Something will set max speed and somehow cut fueling.
Is there an exploded view of the engine? I did a quick google but did not find. Am guessing it's all inside the pump area, no flapper sensing the breeze off the flywheel cooling fins, like on really old B&S engines.
The spring is under the fuel tank, everything else is inside the engine.
I think I'll buy one of these
I have a 10hp Yanmar on a plate compactor. No way I'd want to pull start it.
Takes a fair bit of cranking to get it going.
I can pull start my 320cc yanmar, I wouldn't try it when it's below freezing.
I got my tiller up and running a couple weeks ago. Found the right belt length (2-3" longer than OEM IIRC). Seems fine though the original pulley cover won't work, so all the spinning stuff is naked right now. I tested it enough to know it works, ground is way too wet/muddy to do any serious tilling.
Going back to the used engine I still have, I finally tried it out today. Mounted it on some solid boards so it won't walk away. Here's my takeaway:
A) fired up on first pull without any effort put into bleeding the fuel system. Used diesel fuel and Harvest King 10w-30 CK-4 All fleet for initial fill.
B) I can fire this thing up on the very first pull every time WITHOUT using the compression release. Temps were in the mid 40's here today. A good bit stiffer pull than a gas engine, but manageable. No way could this be done on my new diesel engines, the compression release was a must when starting.
I don't really know how well the used engine will run when loaded, but it runs fantastic so far. I think adapting this to a go-kart or something mobile is in my future.
Going back to the used engine I still have, I finally tried it out today. Mounted it on some solid boards so it won't walk away. Here's my takeaway:
A) fired up on first pull without any effort put into bleeding the fuel system. Used diesel fuel and Harvest King 10w-30 CK-4 All fleet for initial fill.
B) I can fire this thing up on the very first pull every time WITHOUT using the compression release. Temps were in the mid 40's here today. A good bit stiffer pull than a gas engine, but manageable. No way could this be done on my new diesel engines, the compression release was a must when starting.
I don't really know how well the used engine will run when loaded, but it runs fantastic so far. I think adapting this to a go-kart or something mobile is in my future.
I've been running these things on my pressure washer and tiller for awhile-- both work great and have plenty of power for the applications.
One thing I'm stuck on. The fuel cap keeps leaking if I fill the tank even close to full; this happens any time the machine is tilted a little bit from horizontal. Obviously since the power washer is on wheels, it has to be transported in a tilted position, and the tiller-- well it moves from horizontal all the time depending on digging depth, terrain, etc.
It's not the fuel cap, I have three of these and all exhibit the same behavior. It's a crudely vented fuel cap is the only I can think of, and am wondering if a vented cap is available that has a nipple on the top, so I can vent upward with a hose or something. Seems like a standard thread size for a small engine fuel tank, anyone have any suggestions on what I can replace it with?
Or has anyone run into the same issue? If I keep the tank half full or below, it's not an issue. Even though these sip fuel miserly (much more fuel efficient than a comparable gas engine IMO), I'd still like to fill the tank to at least 3/4.
One thing I'm stuck on. The fuel cap keeps leaking if I fill the tank even close to full; this happens any time the machine is tilted a little bit from horizontal. Obviously since the power washer is on wheels, it has to be transported in a tilted position, and the tiller-- well it moves from horizontal all the time depending on digging depth, terrain, etc.
It's not the fuel cap, I have three of these and all exhibit the same behavior. It's a crudely vented fuel cap is the only I can think of, and am wondering if a vented cap is available that has a nipple on the top, so I can vent upward with a hose or something. Seems like a standard thread size for a small engine fuel tank, anyone have any suggestions on what I can replace it with?
Or has anyone run into the same issue? If I keep the tank half full or below, it's not an issue. Even though these sip fuel miserly (much more fuel efficient than a comparable gas engine IMO), I'd still like to fill the tank to at least 3/4.
I should update, I may have fixed my own issue. It's a faulty fuel cap design. It's basically a sealed cap with a small hole in the middle for venting which leads to a hollow core open to the outside. Nothing there to keep fuel from leaving through that small hole if you tilt the engine. I think they're intended for generator / stationary applications that don't tilt.
These happen to be the same fuel cap / thread diameters as the newer EVAP equipped Honda GXs and other import small engines. Those have a one-way valve in the cap that lets air enter (to replace spent fuel) but seals the other way so nothing leaks out. $16 later (cheap Amazon buy) I've all but turned the engine upside down with no fuel leakage.
I just purchased one of these 168F diesel engines from Amazon. Went thru the first time start up and it fired up, no issues. Started the engine 3 times within 2 hours, no issues. Went to start a week later and no joy. Diesel fuel all over air filter. Removed intake manifold pulled the starter cord and fuel is spitting out, of course it wouldn't start. After sending a message thru Amazon to the seller he suggested I remove fuel line drain any fuel and spray it dry using carb cleaner along with the air filter. After doing all that fuel is still coming out of the intake. Anyone have this issue or possible fix, besides sending it back to them?
Where is the fuel spitting out from? These are direct injection, so it has to be leaking somewhere along the fuel line between the pump and cylinder head. Not sure how it can even get on the air cleaner, unless gravity takes it there.
Edit: I re-read your post, so you're saying fuel is coming out the intake port?? That doesn't sound right at all. The valves should be fully closed and the piston nearing TDC before the injector does its thing.
I wish you luck sending it back. Many sellers simply won't accept returns. Out of the three I bought, one arrived that was clearly used. Seller refused to take it back without me paying shipping (half the cost of engine), so I disputed it with my credit card company. Credit card company took Amazon's side (after they initially credited the purchase). Needless to say I cancelled that credit card and they won't get any more of my business.
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