Thanks for the comments. I'm already putting a "to do" list together.
On a side note, what should I replace the Dex-Cool with?
On a side note, what should I replace the Dex-Cool with?
Chevy Silverado
- Thread starter chriscreags
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Just keep the Dexcool in there. It's worked for the past 12 years.
Originally Posted By: cchase
Just keep the Dexcool in there. It's worked for the past 12 years.
So it is safe to use then? I've never owned a GM vehicle before, so I'm new to this.
I'm not by any means trying to take the thread off topic, or argue about it either. Maybe somebody will be willing to PM an explanation to me.
Just keep the Dexcool in there. It's worked for the past 12 years.
So it is safe to use then? I've never owned a GM vehicle before, so I'm new to this.
I'm not by any means trying to take the thread off topic, or argue about it either. Maybe somebody will be willing to PM an explanation to me.
I've got a '97 C2500 with the 5.7. Great truck. Other than LIMs and associated items, it has not had a problem.
Get the Dexcool out at the earliest opportunity. I replaced mine with G05, but haven't had it in long enough to recommend for or against it from personal experience. Others can blame the cheap gaskets all they want, the LIM problem didn't become widespread until GM went to Dexcool in '96.
As to the gentleman who suggested that you could pay for a new fuel efficient car with what you save on gas, I'd like to know his pharmacist. He must have some good stuff. I have an 8 mile each way commute 5 days a week. I spend less than $100 a month on gas. I'd have to be able to buy a Prius for less than $50 a month to make the math work out. Add in the higher insurance and licence costs for the newer econo car, and it would still cost more if it ran on air.
Get the Dexcool out at the earliest opportunity. I replaced mine with G05, but haven't had it in long enough to recommend for or against it from personal experience. Others can blame the cheap gaskets all they want, the LIM problem didn't become widespread until GM went to Dexcool in '96.
As to the gentleman who suggested that you could pay for a new fuel efficient car with what you save on gas, I'd like to know his pharmacist. He must have some good stuff. I have an 8 mile each way commute 5 days a week. I spend less than $100 a month on gas. I'd have to be able to buy a Prius for less than $50 a month to make the math work out. Add in the higher insurance and licence costs for the newer econo car, and it would still cost more if it ran on air.
Not a bad catch there - and this coming from a guy who isn't a GM fan.
I'd too get rid of the Dex-[censored] and do a through flush and fill. Servicing the transmission and diff isn't a bad idea at this time as well. The drive train on this is standard GM fare - OHV V8, 4L60E or 4L80E series transmission, standard GM or Dana rear end with an optional posi.
I'd too get rid of the Dex-[censored] and do a through flush and fill. Servicing the transmission and diff isn't a bad idea at this time as well. The drive train on this is standard GM fare - OHV V8, 4L60E or 4L80E series transmission, standard GM or Dana rear end with an optional posi.
Seems I'm in the minority with keeping the Dexcool. Oh well.
Originally Posted By: cchase
Seems I'm in the minority with keeping the Dexcool. Oh well.
No problem. I've just been snakebit by the stuff. I've had to "open" up two GM vehicles I expected to run to 300k miles without a problem because of LIM issues. I suspect the problem is both in the Dex and a bad gasket design, so why not change out both when you have the chance?
Seems I'm in the minority with keeping the Dexcool. Oh well.
No problem. I've just been snakebit by the stuff. I've had to "open" up two GM vehicles I expected to run to 300k miles without a problem because of LIM issues. I suspect the problem is both in the Dex and a bad gasket design, so why not change out both when you have the chance?
Although you didn't mention if it was two or four wheel drive, you should expect a worst of about 18 MPG city. Extrememly reliable and easy to perform work on. Only problems I know of are ABS issues on earlier models, otherwise an excellent vehicle that sounds like has been carefully kept.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
PT1 - all your static aside, the poster wants a truck so he can have a truck. Last time I checked this was the USA and freedom of choice is alive and well.
And it's also the USA where freedom of speech is alive and well. Accordingly, while the OP is certainly free to choose to commute to and from school in a truck, others are certainly free to question the wisdom of that choice. Yes, at the end of the day, any of us can drive whatever we can pay to keep and to fuel. That said, when I was a student (two stints, 79-83 and 91-93), I drove economical cars. If nothing else, I was able to afford more beer that way. . .
PT1 - all your static aside, the poster wants a truck so he can have a truck. Last time I checked this was the USA and freedom of choice is alive and well.
And it's also the USA where freedom of speech is alive and well. Accordingly, while the OP is certainly free to choose to commute to and from school in a truck, others are certainly free to question the wisdom of that choice. Yes, at the end of the day, any of us can drive whatever we can pay to keep and to fuel. That said, when I was a student (two stints, 79-83 and 91-93), I drove economical cars. If nothing else, I was able to afford more beer that way. . .
Originally Posted By: chriscreags
Originally Posted By: cchase
Just keep the Dexcool in there. It's worked for the past 12 years.
So it is safe to use then? I've never owned a GM vehicle before, so I'm new to this.
I'm not by any means trying to take the thread off topic, or argue about it either. Maybe somebody will be willing to PM an explanation to me.
As I've mentioned here several times before, my favorite tech at our now-defunct Buick-only dealership (which of course was the best car store in town...) loved to refer to DexCool by his own pet name: "RustCool". Seemed to describe well how this venom behaved in my pair of 231s.
Originally Posted By: cchase
Just keep the Dexcool in there. It's worked for the past 12 years.
So it is safe to use then? I've never owned a GM vehicle before, so I'm new to this.
I'm not by any means trying to take the thread off topic, or argue about it either. Maybe somebody will be willing to PM an explanation to me.
As I've mentioned here several times before, my favorite tech at our now-defunct Buick-only dealership (which of course was the best car store in town...) loved to refer to DexCool by his own pet name: "RustCool". Seemed to describe well how this venom behaved in my pair of 231s.
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
PT1 - all your static aside, the poster wants a truck so he can have a truck. Last time I checked this was the USA and freedom of choice is alive and well.
And it's also the USA where freedom of speech is alive and well. Accordingly, while the OP is certainly free to choose to commute to and from school in a truck, others are certainly free to question the wisdom of that choice. Yes, at the end of the day, any of us can drive whatever we can pay to keep and to fuel. That said, when I was a student (two stints, 79-83 and 91-93), I drove economical cars. If nothing else, I was able to afford more beer that way. . .
Yes, so true. But the poster did not ask for opinions such as the one PT1 posted. He was off topic. That was my point.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
PT1 - all your static aside, the poster wants a truck so he can have a truck. Last time I checked this was the USA and freedom of choice is alive and well.
And it's also the USA where freedom of speech is alive and well. Accordingly, while the OP is certainly free to choose to commute to and from school in a truck, others are certainly free to question the wisdom of that choice. Yes, at the end of the day, any of us can drive whatever we can pay to keep and to fuel. That said, when I was a student (two stints, 79-83 and 91-93), I drove economical cars. If nothing else, I was able to afford more beer that way. . .
Yes, so true. But the poster did not ask for opinions such as the one PT1 posted. He was off topic. That was my point.
Originally Posted By: USA1
Although you didn't mention if it was two or four wheel drive, you should expect a worst of about 18 MPG city. Extrememly reliable and easy to perform work on. Only problems I know of are ABS issues on earlier models, otherwise an excellent vehicle that sounds like has been carefully kept.
At the risk of sounding rude, which I am not trying to be, but on what planet is any full size truck going to get 18+ MPG "CITY" driving?
Granted GM full sized trucks get the best MPG of any out there( I have had 2 - 05 & 07 Silverado Extended Cab 4WD 5.3L )but to say he should expect 18 MPG CITY as the worst case scenario is a bit of a reach wouldn't you say. 13-15 City, 16-17 mixed, and 18-20 highway is a more realistic estimate if he drives conservative and stays within the speed limit. Doesn't really seem to matter if it is 2WD or 4WD either in these trucks. Maybe an extra MPG all highway. Less if he is a lead foot. These are the average MPG figures I saw as well as what was reported when I was on the GM truck sites.
Best ever for me out of either Silverado was 22 MPG 100% highway @ 60 MPH in CC( 130 mile round trip - maybe 2 miles not on highway ). Nice flat and empty highway and cool early summer evening temps. Basically perfect conditons. I have never seen a full size truck from any mfg, 2WD or 4WD, that would do an honest 18 MPG all city. That would put them at 20+ MPG in mixed driving and 24+ MPG highway. Not happening.
Although you didn't mention if it was two or four wheel drive, you should expect a worst of about 18 MPG city. Extrememly reliable and easy to perform work on. Only problems I know of are ABS issues on earlier models, otherwise an excellent vehicle that sounds like has been carefully kept.
At the risk of sounding rude, which I am not trying to be, but on what planet is any full size truck going to get 18+ MPG "CITY" driving?
Granted GM full sized trucks get the best MPG of any out there( I have had 2 - 05 & 07 Silverado Extended Cab 4WD 5.3L )but to say he should expect 18 MPG CITY as the worst case scenario is a bit of a reach wouldn't you say. 13-15 City, 16-17 mixed, and 18-20 highway is a more realistic estimate if he drives conservative and stays within the speed limit. Doesn't really seem to matter if it is 2WD or 4WD either in these trucks. Maybe an extra MPG all highway. Less if he is a lead foot. These are the average MPG figures I saw as well as what was reported when I was on the GM truck sites.
Best ever for me out of either Silverado was 22 MPG 100% highway @ 60 MPH in CC( 130 mile round trip - maybe 2 miles not on highway ). Nice flat and empty highway and cool early summer evening temps. Basically perfect conditons. I have never seen a full size truck from any mfg, 2WD or 4WD, that would do an honest 18 MPG all city. That would put them at 20+ MPG in mixed driving and 24+ MPG highway. Not happening.
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
At the risk of sounding rude, which I am not trying to be, but on what planet is any full size truck going to get 18+ MPG "CITY" driving?
Granted GM full sized trucks get the best MPG of any out there( I have had 2 - 05 & 07 Silverado Extended Cab 4WD 5.3L )but to say he should expect 18 MPG CITY as the worst case scenario is a bit of a reach wouldn't you say. 13-15 City, 16-17 mixed, and 18-20 highway is a more realistic estimate if he drives conservative and stays within the speed limit. Doesn't really seem to matter if it is 2WD or 4WD either in these trucks. Maybe an extra MPG all highway. Less if he is a lead foot. These are the average MPG figures I saw as well as what was reported when I was on the GM truck sites.
I usually get 17-18 for city driving on my truck. Then again, it is kind of a dog. So...
At the risk of sounding rude, which I am not trying to be, but on what planet is any full size truck going to get 18+ MPG "CITY" driving?
Granted GM full sized trucks get the best MPG of any out there( I have had 2 - 05 & 07 Silverado Extended Cab 4WD 5.3L )but to say he should expect 18 MPG CITY as the worst case scenario is a bit of a reach wouldn't you say. 13-15 City, 16-17 mixed, and 18-20 highway is a more realistic estimate if he drives conservative and stays within the speed limit. Doesn't really seem to matter if it is 2WD or 4WD either in these trucks. Maybe an extra MPG all highway. Less if he is a lead foot. These are the average MPG figures I saw as well as what was reported when I was on the GM truck sites.
I usually get 17-18 for city driving on my truck. Then again, it is kind of a dog. So...
I'm not as worried about the gas mileage/consumption issue as I was in the beginning. As previously stated, I only drive locally and I don't peg the throttle in the vehicles that I drive. Admittedly, I will be paying more for gas than my previous car, by it was a sacrifice that I was willing to make.
I saw this truck as an opportunity to have a vehicle that is safer, more reliable, and enjoyable to drive. I stand by my decision, and ultimately I would not have purchased the truck if I didn't think I could handle the cost of driving it.
I'm proud of my decision, and thanks to all for the input. God bless America
I saw this truck as an opportunity to have a vehicle that is safer, more reliable, and enjoyable to drive. I stand by my decision, and ultimately I would not have purchased the truck if I didn't think I could handle the cost of driving it.
I'm proud of my decision, and thanks to all for the input. God bless America
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I have that truck in a '97 with the 5.7. Plus one to the comments on alternators and transmissions, and intake gaskets/Dexcool.
Unless you have the 140 amp alternator, the bearings go bad every 50-60K. My long time experience with GM is that the belt driven acessories usually start to fail around 100K, plus or minus, so you may already be on the second round for the water pump, ps pump and AC compressor. If you need a new compressor, get one of the redesigned alternatives with a one piece case, so it won't leak at the joint like the factory one.
Be wary of the transmission and put money aside for reparing it. Mine went at 75K, despite decent maintenance. The planetary gears (hard parts) are known problems.
Window motors fail, but aren't TOO bad to replace. I've needed to replace the lower ball joints, but that may be due to wheels with increased offset. Tie rod ends too, but I consider that normal maintenance.
Unless you have the 140 amp alternator, the bearings go bad every 50-60K. My long time experience with GM is that the belt driven acessories usually start to fail around 100K, plus or minus, so you may already be on the second round for the water pump, ps pump and AC compressor. If you need a new compressor, get one of the redesigned alternatives with a one piece case, so it won't leak at the joint like the factory one.
Be wary of the transmission and put money aside for reparing it. Mine went at 75K, despite decent maintenance. The planetary gears (hard parts) are known problems.
Window motors fail, but aren't TOO bad to replace. I've needed to replace the lower ball joints, but that may be due to wheels with increased offset. Tie rod ends too, but I consider that normal maintenance.
Originally Posted By: chriscreags
I'm not as worried about the gas mileage/consumption issue as I was in the beginning. As previously stated, I only drive locally and I don't peg the throttle in the vehicles that I drive. Admittedly, I will be paying more for gas than my previous car, by it was a sacrifice that I was willing to make.
I saw this truck as an opportunity to have a vehicle that is safer, more reliable, and enjoyable to drive. I stand by my decision, and ultimately I would not have purchased the truck if I didn't think I could handle the cost of driving it.
I'm proud of my decision, and thanks to all for the input. God bless America
Good for you!
I'm not as worried about the gas mileage/consumption issue as I was in the beginning. As previously stated, I only drive locally and I don't peg the throttle in the vehicles that I drive. Admittedly, I will be paying more for gas than my previous car, by it was a sacrifice that I was willing to make.
I saw this truck as an opportunity to have a vehicle that is safer, more reliable, and enjoyable to drive. I stand by my decision, and ultimately I would not have purchased the truck if I didn't think I could handle the cost of driving it.
I'm proud of my decision, and thanks to all for the input. God bless America
Good for you!
Originally Posted By: TooManyWheels
I have that truck in a '97 with the 5.7. Plus one to the comments on alternators and transmissions, and intake gaskets/Dexcool.
Unless you have the 140 amp alternator, the bearings go bad every 50-60K. My long time experience with GM is that the belt driven acessories usually start to fail around 100K, plus or minus, so you may already be on the second round for the water pump, ps pump and AC compressor. If you need a new compressor, get one of the redesigned alternatives with a one piece case, so it won't leak at the joint like the factory one.
Be wary of the transmission and put money aside for reparing it. Mine went at 75K, despite decent maintenance. The planetary gears (hard parts) are known problems.
Window motors fail, but aren't TOO bad to replace. I've needed to replace the lower ball joints, but that may be due to wheels with increased offset. Tie rod ends too, but I consider that normal maintenance.
My '98 K1500 5.7L v8:
- Alternator at 150k
- Window motors never failed up to 180k
- Transmission - still good at 180k T-teched every 60k with Dex III
- Water pump at 130k
I forgot to mention: If your cruise control fails intermittently, there's a 90% chance it's the brake switch at the top of your brake pedal lever. It's a two in one switch that has both normally closed and a normally open contacts. The cruise control won't work without it, and it took me about 3 hours with the wiring diagram and a continuity tester to figure this out. It really stands to reason that this would be the failure point. That switch is probably the most often used electrical switch in the whole vehicle. Replacing the switch is a snap and it's a fairly cheap part. Mine died at around 160k.
I have that truck in a '97 with the 5.7. Plus one to the comments on alternators and transmissions, and intake gaskets/Dexcool.
Unless you have the 140 amp alternator, the bearings go bad every 50-60K. My long time experience with GM is that the belt driven acessories usually start to fail around 100K, plus or minus, so you may already be on the second round for the water pump, ps pump and AC compressor. If you need a new compressor, get one of the redesigned alternatives with a one piece case, so it won't leak at the joint like the factory one.
Be wary of the transmission and put money aside for reparing it. Mine went at 75K, despite decent maintenance. The planetary gears (hard parts) are known problems.
Window motors fail, but aren't TOO bad to replace. I've needed to replace the lower ball joints, but that may be due to wheels with increased offset. Tie rod ends too, but I consider that normal maintenance.
My '98 K1500 5.7L v8:
- Alternator at 150k
- Window motors never failed up to 180k
- Transmission - still good at 180k T-teched every 60k with Dex III
- Water pump at 130k
I forgot to mention: If your cruise control fails intermittently, there's a 90% chance it's the brake switch at the top of your brake pedal lever. It's a two in one switch that has both normally closed and a normally open contacts. The cruise control won't work without it, and it took me about 3 hours with the wiring diagram and a continuity tester to figure this out. It really stands to reason that this would be the failure point. That switch is probably the most often used electrical switch in the whole vehicle. Replacing the switch is a snap and it's a fairly cheap part. Mine died at around 160k.
Originally Posted By: TooManyWheels
I have that truck in a '97 with the 5.7. Plus one to the comments on alternators and transmissions, and intake gaskets/Dexcool.
Unless you have the 140 amp alternator, the bearings go bad every 50-60K. My long time experience with GM is that the belt driven acessories usually start to fail around 100K, plus or minus, so you may already be on the second round for the water pump, ps pump and AC compressor. If you need a new compressor, get one of the redesigned alternatives with a one piece case, so it won't leak at the joint like the factory one.
Be wary of the transmission and put money aside for reparing it. Mine went at 75K, despite decent maintenance. The planetary gears (hard parts) are known problems.
Window motors fail, but aren't TOO bad to replace. I've needed to replace the lower ball joints, but that may be due to wheels with increased offset. Tie rod ends too, but I consider that normal maintenance.
My truck has certainly been around the block, but my experience (and those of friends with similar trucks) is sure different than yours. It's amazing how experiences vary among owners.
- My original transmission lasted 200,000 miles
- Original water pump 180,000 miles
- Tie rod ends are original at 367,000 miles, as are all steering/suspension bushings and components
- AC Compressor fine with 367,000 miles
- Original power steering pump with 367,000 miles
I have that truck in a '97 with the 5.7. Plus one to the comments on alternators and transmissions, and intake gaskets/Dexcool.
Unless you have the 140 amp alternator, the bearings go bad every 50-60K. My long time experience with GM is that the belt driven acessories usually start to fail around 100K, plus or minus, so you may already be on the second round for the water pump, ps pump and AC compressor. If you need a new compressor, get one of the redesigned alternatives with a one piece case, so it won't leak at the joint like the factory one.
Be wary of the transmission and put money aside for reparing it. Mine went at 75K, despite decent maintenance. The planetary gears (hard parts) are known problems.
Window motors fail, but aren't TOO bad to replace. I've needed to replace the lower ball joints, but that may be due to wheels with increased offset. Tie rod ends too, but I consider that normal maintenance.
My truck has certainly been around the block, but my experience (and those of friends with similar trucks) is sure different than yours. It's amazing how experiences vary among owners.
- My original transmission lasted 200,000 miles
- Original water pump 180,000 miles
- Tie rod ends are original at 367,000 miles, as are all steering/suspension bushings and components
- AC Compressor fine with 367,000 miles
- Original power steering pump with 367,000 miles
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