I've been thinking about doing this myself, but if i do how do u dispose of old coolant?
Changing coolant
- Thread starter jayno20
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Do you have a "dump" that accepts tires, appliances and drain oil?
The attendant at our local "dump" told me they'll take antifreeze but they don't advertize it.
If that fails, ask your local PepAutoKragen, I think they HAVE to take it in some states.
The attendant at our local "dump" told me they'll take antifreeze but they don't advertize it.
If that fails, ask your local PepAutoKragen, I think they HAVE to take it in some states.
no places locally take oil or any of that stuff..
Call the city and see if the water treatment plant can handle glycol. Most municipal treatment plants will give you the A-OK to dump it down the toilet.
Just don't dump it down the sewer, or the gutter, use your sink or toilet. Antifreeze turns into two harmless byproducts when given the proper time and exposure. I believe it is h2o and carbon dioxide but don't quite remember, but I know it's harmless AFTER the treatment process or even being exposed to plain air. But until it breaks down it is very very toxic so lets not kill the neighborhood pets please. It is responsible for asking the question, so as a cat and doggy lover I thank you.
yeah i love animals of all sorts myself, i didnt like the idea of just dumping it anywhere, but down the toliet will be ok?
If you flush it down the toilet it will be diluted with millions of gallons of water and end up at the sewage treatment plant where the microbes will break it down into harmless bi-products. I used to work for a chemical company and that is how they disposed of their highly toxic chemicals. If you put it into the system slowly it is amazing what a sewage treatment plant can treat.
alrighty then, thanks guys!
oh yeah one more thing... will the car have to be running while flushing water thru it to get all the old stuff out? and should it be at operating temp? (i am assuming yes since the thermostat will have to be open)
Oh yeah and this will be my first coolant flush/fill so im a noob at it. Talk me thru it you wise bitog'ers
Oh yeah and this will be my first coolant flush/fill so im a noob at it. Talk me thru it you wise bitog'ers
Dunno if I'm a wise BITOGer, but personally I drain the radiator, button it up, refill with distilled water, replace the radiator cap, start the engine, turn the heater control knob up to full "hades" position (so the heater core gets flushed) and wait until the upper radiator hose gets HOT and stays that way. Then go through the whole process again. It takes me about five or six of these distilled water flush and refill cycles to get the radiator to drain clear, white liquid. What's left in the system at that point is essentially distilled water - and typically is about half the total volume. At that point I fill with antifreeze concentrate, replace the radiator cap, drive the car until fully warmed to "burp" remaining air out, and shut down. When the system is COLD again, I remove the radiator cap and test the antifreeze concentration with a coolant hydrometer. (The level will be low because of air having been sucked back in as the system cools down, but still above the radiator core tubes.) If the concentration is within three to five percent of 50/50 (it usually is), I just top up with antifreeze concentrate until full. I also bring the level of the overflow bottle up a little over the half full mark with 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water at that point. From there on, the system will equalize itself in use - but keep tabs daily for a week in case more air gets burped out. Top up the overflow bottle with 50/50 mix as needed until the level stabilizes. Thereafter, weekly, I check the coolant level at the radiator while the system is cold - it should always show liquid right up to the the lower filler neck shelf that the bottom radiator cap gasket seals against. I make a point of using distilled water to eliminate the possibility of introducing any mineral content into my system through the use of garden hose water. Steam distilled water at WalMart is CHEAP. Do NOT use residential ion-exhange "softened" water. It's loaded with sodium that replaced the calcium found in hard water. Dissolved sodium actively promotes serious corrosion in cooling system metals. Also, do NOT pour your used coolant down the toilet if you have a septic tank - you'll be calling a septic service out in short order if you do. If you're on a municipal sewer system, it's probably OK, though, as others have pointed out - but check with your sewer utility first. When you pour the old coolant down the crapper's bowl, it will not overflow - the trap will drain the excess into the sewer line as you pour. Afterward, one normal flush will send the remainder in the bowl on its merry way. Do NOT pour used coolant into the gutter. Gutters do NOT drain into the municipal sewer system, but instead, into flood control systems which in turn empty into rivers and flow, untreated, ultimately to the ocean. I enjoy seafood - especially coastal shellfish.
[ August 16, 2006, 09:19 AM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
[ August 16, 2006, 09:19 AM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
should u drain the radiator after each fill with distilled water with the car running or while its off?
I do it while it is running so the t-stat opens and permits a complete fill.
Other than the distilled water, I have performed radiator flushes as Ray discribes for decades. That's basically how my dad taught me.
Today, it may not be needed to do such a thorough flush unless you are changing coolant types. If you are using any of the OAT or HOAT formulas, the cooling system just doesn't get that dirty anymore. Most of the time I do a drain and fill (I still change once a year), with a more extensive flush maybe once every four or five years (and even then it may not be needed).
Of course, if the cooling system even get crummy, I will not hesitate to flush.
Other than the distilled water, I have performed radiator flushes as Ray discribes for decades. That's basically how my dad taught me.
Today, it may not be needed to do such a thorough flush unless you are changing coolant types. If you are using any of the OAT or HOAT formulas, the cooling system just doesn't get that dirty anymore. Most of the time I do a drain and fill (I still change once a year), with a more extensive flush maybe once every four or five years (and even then it may not be needed).
Of course, if the cooling system even get crummy, I will not hesitate to flush.
I do my drains with the engine shut off. The last thing I wanna chance in a car I paid for is a stationary air bubble in the head and a crack or blown head gasket.
I did this the other day, it took about 10 flushes of water thru it to come out clear, i then put about a gallon of G-05 in it with the other gallon being distilled water. I used a tester i got from walmart to see where my antifreeze boiling point and freezing point was at and it was pretty much right at 50/50. My question now is, how do i know if there is an air bubble in the system and how can i get it out if there is?
If it runs hot afterwards, then you likely have air. The easiest way I've found to get the air out is let the car cool off a bit, take the rad cap off and let it sit overnight! I used to idle the engine with the cap off until the thermostat opens (hot upper hose) then shut it down and let it sit overnight, and never had an issue, but the last time I did that, it totally boiled over on me and burned and warped my underbody splash shields!! DOH
It's overkill on my part; I've never had an air pocket issue. If I was you, I'd just keep topping off the coolent for the next week if it looks low every morning. If it's low, it's because air burped out the overflow. (or through the intake gasket on a GM
)
It's overkill on my part; I've never had an air pocket issue. If I was you, I'd just keep topping off the coolent for the next week if it looks low every morning. If it's low, it's because air burped out the overflow. (or through the intake gasket on a GM
if theres air bubbles will the heat blow hot?
I guess it would depend on where the bubble is. If it was at the entrance to the heater core, then likely no. What kind of vehicle do you have? Some cars actually have an air bleeder valve in the cooling system.
2000 CHRYSLER Sebring.. from what i can tell it runs at about 200 degrees or so. I dont think theres any bubbles, but im not completely sure if my gauge is working right... how long would the car operate if it was on the verge of overheating?
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