Changing brake calipers

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Had my driver's side brake caliper get stiff on me this afternoon, so to the dealer it went(only place to go). Gonna be $270 for the caliper plus $100 for the install. I don't know what fittings there are for the brake hose, so I scheduled the install for next Saturday.

Is a brake caliper change something that needs special tools? Just wondering if I can do it myself. ALso wondering if I should get the other side replaced at the same time.

Thoughts?
 
I don't know anything about Daihatsu cars nor Japanese law regarding remanufactured parts. But...

Generally no special tools are required to change calipers.

Obviously you don't know how to do it yourself. Maybe you should get the repair manual for your car,see if it is something you think you can do ,and maybe get a friend to help.

I usually get remanufactured ones at about $40-$70 each and replace after 10yrs/100k miles or so.

Obviously you want to change the brake fluid at the same time.

Did the dealer say the pads and disc/rotors were ok?
 
Yeah, they didn't say anything about it being a problem. I have removed calipers before, it's just the disconnecting of the brake line to the caliper that bothers me. This is Japan, there are no repair manuals because no one does it themselves. The only thing I would have to worry about is what to do with the old ones if the dealer wouldn't take them back. DOn't know if there is a core charge or not.
 
Toyota sells Repair Manual [printed in Japan] for about $250.00 CDN.
I bet your parts dept. has a Manual for sale.

PS. Is it true that most Japanese pull their engines out and replace them around 90,000 Km's and they then get shipped offshore for resale? We have many shops in Canada selling low mileage Japanese engines from Japan. They tell us your emissions standards are so strict that you are better off replacing engines with new around 90,000 Km's.
 
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I've done them many times, not a bad job. Having an assistant help for the final bleeding of the caliper is a plus. I fill the caliper just before I install it, and gravity bleed it as much as possible, so final bleeding takes a lot less time. It isn't hard at all, just read up on it first if you've never done it before. There is lots of good info on the WWW that should get you familiar with the job.

Last caliper I did a reman cost me about $25 IIRC, so the savings is big.
 
very easy job . loosen wheel nuts .jack up car .take off wheel . loosen line with one 10 mm (usually) open end wrench or line wrench .remove 2 metric bolts . usually 17-19 mm.slide caliper off rotor. put new caliper on .bolt back on .bleed brake line. reverse procedure . simple.
 
Are you sure it not the caliper pins that are seized? The usually go long before the piston. EWasy job. lots of info on the internet. A seized pin can be hard to remove and will often need heat. (oxy-acetyene not propane)
 
Originally Posted By: cjcride

PS. Is it true that most Japanese pull their engines out and replace them around 90,000 Km's and they then get shipped offshore for resale? We have many shops in Canada selling low mileage Japanese engines from Japan. They tell us your emissions standards are so strict that you are better off replacing engines with new around 90,000 Km's.


I find that hard to believe. A 90KM motor will give no more emmission that a new one. More likely these import motors are from wrecks.
 
A Toyota mechanic told me about these 90KM Japanese engine suppliers years ago, never felt comfortable with the idea.

Sure wish Shaman could shed some light on this.
 
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Originally Posted By: cjcride
A Toyota mechanic told me about these 90KM Japanese engine suppliers years ago, never felt comfortable with the idea.

Sure wish Shaman could shed some light on this.


Because I'd listen to a dealership mechanic on alot of things Let along one who say something like that. I am very doubtful.
 
Well there could 2 things wrong, because the piston has some rust. Or the caliper bracket which contains the two pins that allow it to "float" has one or both of the pins corroded. Some people try and polish the corrosion off the pins, friend who teaches auto shop, says no, grab the pin with a vice grip and hit the vice grip with a big hammer to knock it out and replace it, maybe both pins.

Having said all of that and that you are a newbe at fixing brakes, I would buy a "loaded" caliper which includes everything needed, some parts may be rebuilt, and some will be new. Only two bolts hold the caliper and then there is the brake hose bolt. You need a container of fresh brake fluid (do not use any old brake fluid where the container has been opened). Brake fluid is cheap so use fresh.

Then get a helper (wife) to help you bleed this caliper. You should not need to change the brake fluid or bleed other calipers.
 
Ok, the caliper seems to have unseized. Yesterday there was a little smoke coming from the brake, and now the disc isn't even warmer than the other one. IF the pins just need cleaned, I can do that, and the swap doesn't seem to be that bad.
 
Originally Posted By: cjcride
Toyota sells Repair Manual [printed in Japan] for about $250.00 CDN.
I bet your parts dept. has a Manual in Japanese for sale.


Fixed. As a JDM only car, I can't seem to find anything about it.

My father thinks it may be the master cylinder. The pedal isn't always the same stiffness.
 
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Quote:

PS. Is it true that most Japanese pull their engines out and replace them around 90,000 Km's and they then get shipped offshore for resale? We have many shops in Canada selling low mileage Japanese engines from Japan. They tell us your emissions standards are so strict that you are better off replacing engines with new around 90,000 Km's.


90,000kms is not a set limitations on Japanese cars. Problem has nothing to do with engines or car manufacturers but the Jpn govt actually imposed annual car inspections and based on mileage/repair and such, owners who wish to extend their ownership of their vehicle beyond, say, 50~80,000kms or 5 yrs approx. will have to pay considerably more in order to renew their car titles (no car title/cannot operate on Japanese roads). An 8 yr old Subaru legacy with over 200,000kms will cost a typical owner an easy 2~4000USD equivalent to pass the rei-nspection (with all the necessary repairs reported by the car inspection facilities)in order to renew the car title for roadworthiness.

Same holds true for diesel commercial class vehicles incl. diesel tour buses, delivery trucks, etc. and when the cost becomes highly prohibitive (esp. if your primary operational region is in metro-Tokyo area) to pass the inspection in order to renew car title, most owners resort to scrapping them instead.

Outside of metro Tokyo, the farther you go, the cheaper to the cost for inspection to renew vehicle. That's why:

(a) you see many JDM vehicles with low mileage engines and/or imported into Canada (15yr+ old vehicles) and still in mechanically-sound condition.

(b) you seldom see many 5+yr old vehicles on Japanese road simply because Japanese law makes it very cost-prohibitive to own any vehicles older than 5 yrs old.

(c) scrapped JDM engines are available for exportation and as their market expands (now mainly mainland China),and/or ePrey.
 
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I’ve done this before, but here is the break-down
Road Tax
Paid every May, based on engine size
0-660cc – 8,000 yen
661-999cc – 15,000 yen
1000 -1499 – 20,000 yen
Every 500cc is 5,000 yen

Evo/WRX at 2.0L would be 30,000 just for tax

Inspection
Three years inspection is put on a new car, and after that it’s every 2 years. There was a law that cars over 10 years had to be inspected every year, but is no longer in effect.

You can pay someone to inspect the car, or you can do it yourself. If you do it yourself, and if there is no problem with the car, a kei(less than 660cc car) will run about 28xxx yen. (Just did it last week). Regular car is I’m told is 70,000. Paying someone to do it will easily double the cost, because things get replaced (needed or not, just like the USA). Friend paid 150,000 to get her kei inspected, and my first car was looking at 200,000, which was more than I paid for the second car, so I gave it away. Most of the cost of my inspection was jibaiseki, or mandatory insurance, paid with inspection. It was I think about half or more of what i paid.

People here just don`t know how to take care of their cars. You will hear 3 year old cars making noises. My wife didn’t know to change her oil, so it went for 1.5 years without an oil change (search my user name for more info.) They are throw away things. Like Quest mentioned, it gets easier to change cars than repair. As you can tell from the first post, a brake caliper is $250 here, and what, $50 in the US? Oil change was 5,000 yen, and doing it yourself is 800 yen filter(CHEAP!), 1,400-6,000 yen oil, and 400 yen to recycle it at the store. There are no “parts” stores, and I don’t even know if the word core charge is in the Japanese language. The auto store across the street from my apartment looks part motorcycle shop, and part pepboys.
 
The conspiracy theory is that Japanese government is paid for by the auto industry to force its own citizen to buy new and scrap.

What's the point of doing any maintenance if you are forced to throw away your car at the end of 5 years?
 
Wow.
We should pool our money and book a car carrying freighter. Fill it with 5 year old Japanese cars bring them to North America and invest the profit.
 
"I usually get remanufactured ones at about $40-$70 each and replace after 10yrs/100k miles or so."


I have a 160k miles on my 12 year old windstar with original calipers on the front. Do I really need to replace them just because the are old and a lot of miles? We don't get a lot of corrosion in Texas.
 
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