I have a 1995 plymouth voyager 3.0L mitsu engime > 27000 miles on it > I was using MOBIL 1 10-30 syn and when the new EP 10-30 came out I switched > This van has never used a drop of oil in 5,000 mile changes and comes out almost as clean as new > Now with EP I use 1/3 to 1/2 qt. in 250 mile trip > Last time it went down I left it there and made same trip with low reading > To my surprise, I used no oil > This don't figure to me >
Changed oils and now using oil
- Thread starter OBIO3
- Start date
- Status
It isn't the oil.
It's the trip.
250 mile trip, that's four hours of high-speed operation.
You heated up your crankcase, and all of the non-oil crap that had built up in it boiled off.
Happenned to me in my Chevy. I took a 3 hour trip when my oil had 4,000 miles on it, and a half quart of oil burned right off.
Your oil must have been cleaner on the previous trip...
Happens all the time. No sweat.
It's the trip.
250 mile trip, that's four hours of high-speed operation.
You heated up your crankcase, and all of the non-oil crap that had built up in it boiled off.
Happenned to me in my Chevy. I took a 3 hour trip when my oil had 4,000 miles on it, and a half quart of oil burned right off.
Your oil must have been cleaner on the previous trip...
Happens all the time. No sweat.
Oil pan leak? Oil drops below the pan/block mating surface. Also, check PCV (crankcase venting from valve cover with a valve in it) system that it is clear - otherwise it can increase crankcase pressures and increase oil leaks.
I can't answer the oil question, but I know that engine. With that age on it, it's a high candidate to have worn valve stem seals. I just replaced them in my 3.0 Mitzu myself. Don't ever try it.
Of course I saw some mild smoking (blue black) out the tailpipe. That's how you tell. No smoke now at all.
At that age you have a lot of deposits even with the low miles. Most of the time that van was run on short trips for sure.
Of course I saw some mild smoking (blue black) out the tailpipe. That's how you tell. No smoke now at all.
At that age you have a lot of deposits even with the low miles. Most of the time that van was run on short trips for sure.
Maybe I need to be more clear > i bought this van with 18500 miles on it a year ago Dec. > Going with the statements, this van is parked in a very clean garage/machine shop combo with super clean cement floors > This van does not leak a drop of oil so that's ruled out > Sence day one I drive this 250 mile RT 2 to 3 times a month > The day I bought it I put mobil 1 syn 05-30 in it and changed to mobil 1 syn 10-30 at 3000 miles > The last change I went with mobil EP 10-30 and this is when the oil problem started > untill this change it did not use a single drop of oil > Leaving it 1/2 qt low last trip it used none > I don't see how valve seals would stop leaking under these conditions > I can't comprehend a part not functioning with a full crankcase and at a predetermined point start working again > I have it in my head it is the composistion of the new oil it doesn't like as dumb as that may sound > My thoughts are , with a full crankcase there is more splach to the cylender walls and the rings can't wipe the oil back down properly > Once it reaches 1/3 to 1/2 qt low the splash is considerably less > Hope this gives you people smarter then me something better to go on >
TJ76 is right. If your van sees frequent urban crawl, or long times between highway runs, there'll be more moisture and fuel dilution in the oil. When you pull the dipstick, you're measuring overall volume, not merely engine oil content. Get the engine out on a good run, and the dilutents are boiled off and blown out the exhaust. This is one of the reasons urban crawl is so destructive to internal combustion engines - water and gasoline contamination equate to partially oxidized particulates and acid formation. That deadly duo results in premature oil gelling - sludge.
(Your engine does not rely on a "splash" system for it lubricant needs. (If you keep your engine oil level high enough that the crank throws actually dip into the oil, you got other issues that require a good cuff to the back of your head.
) Your engine's lube requirements are met with pressurized oil delivered from a pump through galleries to all moving parts. Some of those galleries are within certain moving parts - notably the crankshaft. Your engine's cylinders get the same amount of oil metered from holes in the big-end of the connecting rods whether you're a half quart "overfilled" or even a full quart underfilled - as long as the oil pump and pickup screen are in good condition.)
(Your engine does not rely on a "splash" system for it lubricant needs. (If you keep your engine oil level high enough that the crank throws actually dip into the oil, you got other issues that require a good cuff to the back of your head.
I'm going to test your theory > Last long trip was last friday > This is the one I done with oil low and used none > I'm leaving it the 1/2 qt low > in 2 weeks i'll be going again > that should tell the story
My car's oil level will vary by 1/4 quart to 1 quart based on how long the engine has been off, and on which way its facing in my driveway. A barely perceptible slope in a driveway or garage floor can cause a different dipstick reading.
I try to check my oil in the morning, with the car parked in the same spot facing the same direction.
I try to check my oil in the morning, with the car parked in the same spot facing the same direction.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Check the oil after the vehicle has sat overnite. Make sure the vehicle is on level ground. Doing this always registers the correct amount of oil in the crankcase -- unless you have a faulty ADBV in the oil filter.
I have the same year van same engine and I run mine half a quart overfull(5 qts in the sump)With absolutley no problems with a ton of miles. They pretty much had the valve seal problem fixed by then. You have got a problem or your van doesent like that oil. Many places for the oil to leak on that engine also. Check it thouroghly for leaks. Why not run a good dino in that engine? Just curious.
Without question, no leaks > And I do think it is the oil > Why no dino? Lost my legs year ago last Oct. > I have had to make a lot of adjustments concerning things I can no longer do myself > Oil changes is one of those so I have gone with yearly oil and filter changes running the best I can find > I am driving around 7500 miles a year now so yearly seemed reasonable to me >
So many problems > So little time
So many problems > So little time
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,793
(listen to OBI-wan
) ..everyone is telling him ..but no one seems to believe what he's saying.
OBI03 - this is often just a change in one chemistry to another. Give the EP time and I'll venture to say that the rate of consumption will be reduced back to zero.
I don't have the "fat" on the explanation ..but I've observed it myself. In my case the mileage doubled between topups until it was so high ..it was going to be beyond the OCI mark.
OBI03 - this is often just a change in one chemistry to another. Give the EP time and I'll venture to say that the rate of consumption will be reduced back to zero.
I don't have the "fat" on the explanation ..but I've observed it myself. In my case the mileage doubled between topups until it was so high ..it was going to be beyond the OCI mark.
Hope i'm doing this correct. Sense I last posted I have made 2 more 240 mile rt's with my ply van 3L mitsu engine. I left it the 1/2 court low on oil to see if used any more. It did not. Now with the crank case full I used 1/2 qt mobil 1 1030 EP in one 240 mile trip. As you may recall, prior to using the EP I was using Mobil 1 syn 1030 and used no oil in 5,000 miles. Some thought I was getting moisture in my oil but I have now proved that not true. So the question is still not answered . Why am I using this 1/2 qt of oil off the top and then no more
If I'm reading this right, you lost 1/2 quart on the first trip after switching to EP, but the level did not drop any on later trips with no topoff. I don't have an answer either, but to test your theory about a full pan, why not try adding 1/2 quart of EP to see if that oil is lost?
My best guess is that with the crankcase full the oil is getting whipped by the crank and causing it to somehow get into the combustion chambers and burn. And when it stops burning is when the oil stops getting whipped. But if you had no burning with crankcase full using regular M1 it casts doubt on this theory.
It could be that your van does not like the new M1-EP. A few others have reported the exact same thing. No real reason why at this point.
A technical point for RayH.Not all of your engines lube requirements are provided by the oil pump.Cylinder wall and gudgeon pin lube is provided by oil fling off the bigend bearings and general oil misting in the crankcases.
This is one reason that engines don't respond well to prolonged idle especially when cold.
The oil viscosity is high,the rpm is low and oil fling and therefore cylinder wall lube is marginal.
You are correct in that there should be no crank "dip" into the sump oil.
Ciao
This is one reason that engines don't respond well to prolonged idle especially when cold.
The oil viscosity is high,the rpm is low and oil fling and therefore cylinder wall lube is marginal.
You are correct in that there should be no crank "dip" into the sump oil.
Ciao
What is the difference in Cst@100degc between the two oils?
Just thinking,the criticle issue is how much oil is in the pan when the engine is operating,not parked in the drive.
If the ep has a significantly lower viscosity at operating temps then it would mean that the drain back into the pan would be faster and the oil pan level higher during operation.
Yor engine may be sensetive to this higher level and hence burn a bit of oil.
Once it has burned off this excess and the running level drops then its happy again and wont use any more.
Just a theory.Check the cst numbers.
Ciao
Just thinking,the criticle issue is how much oil is in the pan when the engine is operating,not parked in the drive.
If the ep has a significantly lower viscosity at operating temps then it would mean that the drain back into the pan would be faster and the oil pan level higher during operation.
Yor engine may be sensetive to this higher level and hence burn a bit of oil.
Once it has burned off this excess and the running level drops then its happy again and wont use any more.
Just a theory.Check the cst numbers.
Ciao
Is something wrong with your period key?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,793
No ..his space bar
Okay ...let's try this on for size as to the cause of this consumption ...then no more consumption.
There's a volatile in the oil that evaps off ...when it's gone ...voila~! No more consumption.
Hey, I didn't say I knew why this would be the case ..but it would explain the event.
Okay ...let's try this on for size as to the cause of this consumption ...then no more consumption.
There's a volatile in the oil that evaps off ...when it's gone ...voila~! No more consumption.
Hey, I didn't say I knew why this would be the case ..but it would explain the event.
- Status
Similar threads
