Car is stored- (LS1 V8) what oil?

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: Striker
Just phoned the dealer; part is discontinued. May have to call a dealer in the USA and see.


When GM last offered them they ran about $200. It still might be possible to find one in a dealer's inventory. You can buy a used one on Ebay for $90 but I doubt it would be in better condition that yours with 25K miles. I'd bet that 95% of those who scrap the OEM cooler and still want one, just go with an aftermarket unit bolted attached to the undercarriage where reasonable air flow is seen. This is one "original" OEM part that was a bad idea from start. My 2002 Lincoln has an OEM PS cooler that doesn't risk the mixing of fluids. It's just like the current aftermarket ones.

LS1 Tech thread on PS coolers



^^^THIS.

I wanted one so when I scrapped mine, I went with a stacked plate type, air to fluid cooler.

IF you insist on an "original" car, and do not feel the need for a supplementary p.s. cooler, just get the one piece radiator hose, as that factory one leaking into your cooling system, or even vice versa (IF that is even possible) is just NOT worth it.

 

[Striker]

definitely would like to keep all the connectors and everything in place when I remove the cooler- look at it this way- the less cutting, the happier I will be. I don't care if I replace the hose with a regular non cooler one AS LONG AS the PS unit will be fine without.
LS1 Tech thread on PS coolers

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: Striker
definitely would like to keep all the connectors and everything in place when I remove the cooler- look at it this way- the less cutting, the happier I will be. I don't care if I replace the hose with a regular non cooler one AS LONG AS the PS unit will be fine without.
LS1 Tech thread on PS coolers


If you are not open tracking (road course use), or autocrossing the car, you will be fine without any p.s. cooler, especially up in the cool(er) 'north country'.

 

[BellyUpFish]

Did you decide on an oil?

I've got an '00 Trans Am that sees 1,500 miles a year, if I'm lucky. That will increase shortly, but I've been storing it ~30 minutes away, so that kinda kept my driving it down over the last 2 years.

 

[Striker]

No sir- I think I'll go with either Mobil One 0W40 or the Belgian stuff mentioned on the first page here. Doesn't seem like it matters much when it comes to this engine.

 

[jorton]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
There are a few oils on the market that have additives that make the oil cling to parts so they won't rust during long periods of storage:
AMSoil Z-Rod
Joe Gibbs Driven Hot Rod oil
Red Line oils are ester-based, meaning the molecules are polar, and will cling to parts.
Castrol Magnatec is advertised as being able to cling to parts.
But GC is probably OK for that, too.

+1 but switch to Edge 0w-40. I have seen the military's engines that are in long term storage. They are preserved with very thick oil.

 

[TheOnlySarge]

I store a 2004 GTO and drive it a few times a year. Has 17K miles on it.
I use Kendall 10-30 High Mileage.....
Has the seal conditioners and rust inhibitor......
Kendall GT-1 High Mileage Synthetic Blend 10w30 with Liquid Titanium is a premium quality, part-synthetic automotive engine oil specially designed for use in gasoline-fueled vehicles with more than 75,000 miles. It also is recommended for use in lower-mileage vehicles, including new cars under warranty. It also has the following benefits:

Meets ILSAC GF-5 requirements for new cars under warranty
Part-synthetic formulation provides enhanced protection against deposit formation and oil thickening compared with conventional engine oils
Exclusive Liquid Titanium protection additive provides extra wear protection and improved fuel economy
Proprietary SealMax seal conditioner helps recondition and revitalize engine seals to reduce oil consumption and leaks
Protects against rust and bearing corrosion
Low volatility for reduced oil consumption
Excellent low-temperature pumpability for protection during cold starts
Highly resistant to foaming
Helps maximize engine performance and minimize exhaust smoke
Formulated to protect turbochargers and emission
http://petroleumservicecompany.com/kendall-gt-1-hm-w-ti-10w-30.html

 

[Striker]

[/quote]
+1 but switch to Edge 0w-40. I have seen the military's engines that are in long term storage. They are preserved with very thick oil. [/quote]

Could you expand more? What's the oil they use in the military for long term storage?

The Castrol Edge 0W-40- is that the new Belgian stuff or just regular Castrol Edge?

 

[Striker]

Quick update and bump-finally I will have a two car garage and will be able to keep both cars at my house for the first time ever!

On that note, I will be changing the oil in the car immediately.

PP is on sale but I was wondering if Redline would be overkill for my minimal use?

 

[BrocLuno]

Yes, overkill - and you'll want to change once a year with hardly used oil. Not the best ROI

 

[Striker]

The fill of GC thats in it now has maybe a thousand miles on it. I just want something that would be good for longer periods of sitting and start ups every other week or so, esp in the winter months when i can't take it for a neighbourhood spin!

 

[neo3]

The only reason to change the oil more often than every few years is if you don't drive it long enough to burn off all the condensation and unburnt fuel that comes from just starting it up, say 15 miles or more. I also have a low mileage fbody that I bought new in 2000, drive it every couple of weeks. When I used to live in the Seattle area (not too far from your climate of course), had a catch can hooked up that would fill up mostly with water just from condensation. Here in AZ that's not a problem, no humidity, high temps (to say the least), but I still avoid short trips. I just changed to Edge 0W40 - even though the 0W part is unnecessary here, seemed like a good idea to have as low viscosity as possible on cold start up.

Oh also definitely get rid of the steering "cooler", really a bad design and not necessary anyway.

 

[Striker]

I think I may get whatever oil is on sale at the time- Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra is always on sale around here.

As for the cooler, I am dreading that fix lol. I would much prefer to just keep the cooler in place and simply cap it off. I am not a fan of cutting or splicing anything, not on this car anyways.