Scan said "error- OXY bank 2". Changed the OXY sensor downstream, still got a light and 14mpg. Scan then said "lean" and "error on bank 1" or something like that. Changed the up stream sensor and light went off on it's own. MPG went up past 22. Light came back on, scan still said "lean". MPG looking ok. Cleaned MAP sensor because the problems started when I sprayed Gumout into intake. I dunno what to do. Why would the CEL go off automaticly w/ the new upstream OXY sensor, only to return with the same code. Really frustrating. I'd buy a new MAP sensor, but don't want to waste $75. Anyone have a clue? 1998 CRV, 2.0 B-series.
Can't seem to de-bug the CEL on the CR-V
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Did you use an universal type sensor or a direct fit? The universal type sensors are usually the culprit for some of these problems due to errors with installation.
Generics especially can cause a problem if your vehicle has front wide band o2 sensor(s). Do you have one upstream o2 sensor or two? Any vacuum leaks? These could cause lean/long term fuel trim issues.
JTK
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I agree, you probably have some junk on the MAF sensor, throwing the fuel trim off. Do you run an oiled/washable a/f by chance?
Joel
Yes.
This vehicle doesn't have a MAF sensor, it's a Speed Density system that uses MAP, TPS, IAT, IWT, etc and feedback from the O2s.
Checked mpg, it was 22, yea. Checked for leaks visually, none. There is only one upstream sensor, a new "Bosch" and the downstream, a Denso. I'm getting a bad feeling about the MAP, but dunno. It's actually worth the $75 to eliminate it as a cause. Like I said, ECU was all reset 2 days ago and the light came back on in 10 miles. Pretty sick of it. What is meant about problems with the install of generic O2? Wiring? My job should be fine, I found the local machanic's wiring job to be horrible when I pulled the 1st upstream REPLACEMENT 02 out. ECU output indicates good heating circut and data from both sensors. Funny, the 1st upstream mechanic put in (generic Bosch, but different design!) gave a VERY lazy output, that's why I returned it. We had to rev and re-start and stuff to get even a lil output from it, could have been his #@$%! wiring. Now the output is better (although I did not see the actual meter). Ugh. Will have to go to crack mechanic.
Thanks everyone.
To recap:
Sprayed Gumout.
CEL a week later.
Scan said bank 2.
Replaced dopwnstream.
mpg still at 14 and CEL.
Scan said bank 1 and lean.
Replaced upstream (mechanic)
CEL, 14mpg.
Replaced upstream again, slightly diferent design, found wiring to be not good.
CEL off by it's own within 20 miles.
22mpg.
CEL back on in 2 days.
Scan said bank 1 and lean.
CEL back off in 2 days by itself.
CEL back on and 22mpg.
Cleared codes, still 22 w/CEL.
Poured gas all over vehicle and ignited, problem solved.
To recap:
Sprayed Gumout.
CEL a week later.
Scan said bank 2.
Replaced dopwnstream.
mpg still at 14 and CEL.
Scan said bank 1 and lean.
Replaced upstream (mechanic)
CEL, 14mpg.
Replaced upstream again, slightly diferent design, found wiring to be not good.
CEL off by it's own within 20 miles.
22mpg.
CEL back on in 2 days.
Scan said bank 1 and lean.
CEL back off in 2 days by itself.
CEL back on and 22mpg.
Cleared codes, still 22 w/CEL.
Poured gas all over vehicle and ignited, problem solved.
Your o2 is fighting another, upstream sensor, as stated above. Might be worthwhile to scan the datastream if possible. Someone who knows hondas will know their computer logic, eg if the MAP is more important than TPS or vice versa. IOW, which sensor when it's bad, will override all the good ones?
There are plenty of codes for bum o2 sensors-- open circuits, laziness, etc. Those have to pass, certifying the 02 as 'good' or at least 'working' before the "too lean" codes are thrown.
There are plenty of codes for bum o2 sensors-- open circuits, laziness, etc. Those have to pass, certifying the 02 as 'good' or at least 'working' before the "too lean" codes are thrown.
Using the shop manual troubleshooting procedures, stored codes, and a DMM you can usually figure out what the problem is. It may take a long afternoon or evening, but it sure does beat paying someone big bucks for something simple only to have your car hacked up in the process.
See if you can find your engine among these shop manuals.
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/CR-V/
See if you can find your engine among these shop manuals.
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/CR-V/
CEL still on. The good news is that I got 24.6 mpg last fill. Pretty good for a 4WD automatic truck w/oversize tires....good even for a car! I've been telling the woman to always check the mpg, but now she understands why. (her vehicle anyway)
Auto-Union, does your Honda model refer to the HEGO as an "Air/Fuel Sensor"? If so, then you have a 'quick heat' O2 sensor in the upstream position and that's the problem. Those quick-heats are about $200, vs $60 for the normal HEGOs, and everyone tries to use the cheaper ones and they won't work.
The cure is to buy the proper O2 (air-fuel ratio) sensor. They are physically smaller than normal O2s, and have a couple other differences including the quick-heat feature.
The cure is to buy the proper O2 (air-fuel ratio) sensor. They are physically smaller than normal O2s, and have a couple other differences including the quick-heat feature.
Yes both the primary and secondary O2 sensors are the heated type on these Hondas. Gosh...do people actually try to use the non-heated type to save a buck? You just gave me another reason not to let some goober mechanic touch my vehicles with a ten-foot pole.
You did use the Gumout meant for throttle bodies?
There are thimble and planar O2 sensors (of the standard zirconia type).
Thimble sensors are the original style. Available in heated or unheated versions, the heated versions take up to 45 seconds to light off (become warm enough for proper output).
Planar sensors are a new style introduced by Bosch and first used in the 1998 Volkswagen Beetle. These light off in about 10 seconds.
I suspect the "quick heat" sensors referred to above are planar sensors.
I don't believe the 1998 CR-V uses a planar sensor.
A Walker "FLO/UFLO" (fast light off/ultra fast light off) universal sensor is about $70. This is a planar sensor.
Thimble sensors are the original style. Available in heated or unheated versions, the heated versions take up to 45 seconds to light off (become warm enough for proper output).
Planar sensors are a new style introduced by Bosch and first used in the 1998 Volkswagen Beetle. These light off in about 10 seconds.
I suspect the "quick heat" sensors referred to above are planar sensors.
I don't believe the 1998 CR-V uses a planar sensor.
A Walker "FLO/UFLO" (fast light off/ultra fast light off) universal sensor is about $70. This is a planar sensor.
Thank you Brian, that was indeed the type (Planar)I was referring to. I ran into this same problem on an 03 Honda Element that requires a Planar type sensor. It was difficult to diagnose why the MIL stayed on with a new (Zirconia) sensor installed, until research turned up the Planar type. Honda refers to the Planar type as an "Air-Fuel Ratio Sensor", rather than an O2 or HEGO sensor.
Wow, this is the kind of help I come here for. Ok, scan said both heaters are working. The 2nd upstream sensor I installed was physically smaller and "slotted" rather than the lil holes in it. Who knows? I might need a real de-bug from my good mechanic. I'll look into all the issues mentioned above, and try more tweaks. ftr, I dunno what I sprayed in, could have been Berrymans.
Gumout carburetor cleaner will kill O2 sensors and remove the thin plastic lining in the throttle body which gives the butterfly valve a tight seal for smooth idling.
Might even degrade the cat convertors.
Might even degrade the cat convertors.
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