YB 2x a year.
Can't decide between PP 5W-20 & YB 5W-20
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Guys,
If I am correct, ever since Honda started using the OLM back in 2006 they went to a 1 year/or go by the monitor which goes alerts you at 15% oil life left, down to 0% in 5% increments, which ever occurs first.
Factors such as short trips (low oil temperatures), operating outside peak efficiency such as very low rpms or very high rpms, or high oil temperature are factored into rate of decline of the OLM output.
I know that although slightly, the PP will keep the engine cleaner for the long haul. I just wanted opinions as to whether YB might give slightly better wear figures or mileage considering how easy this engine is on oil and the light loads it sees with my mom driving it (top speed in 7 months for her 50- for me 75 on city streets).
I don't think the long year drain is too much for the YB or I would think the OLM would reflect that and direct you to change it sooner.
I guess if there are no negatives to using PP 5w-20 at all, then I'll spring for it and have some piece of mind.
Not to change the subject I decided against including Mobil1 5w-20 (EP) not because I don't think it is a quality oil, but from my experiences with it seems to cause slightly noisier engines, which I do not want for her. If PP turns out to be noisier than YB I will switch back to it.
Thanks for all the replies,
Gary
If I am correct, ever since Honda started using the OLM back in 2006 they went to a 1 year/or go by the monitor which goes alerts you at 15% oil life left, down to 0% in 5% increments, which ever occurs first.
Factors such as short trips (low oil temperatures), operating outside peak efficiency such as very low rpms or very high rpms, or high oil temperature are factored into rate of decline of the OLM output.
I know that although slightly, the PP will keep the engine cleaner for the long haul. I just wanted opinions as to whether YB might give slightly better wear figures or mileage considering how easy this engine is on oil and the light loads it sees with my mom driving it (top speed in 7 months for her 50- for me 75 on city streets).
I don't think the long year drain is too much for the YB or I would think the OLM would reflect that and direct you to change it sooner.
I guess if there are no negatives to using PP 5w-20 at all, then I'll spring for it and have some piece of mind.
Not to change the subject I decided against including Mobil1 5w-20 (EP) not because I don't think it is a quality oil, but from my experiences with it seems to cause slightly noisier engines, which I do not want for her. If PP turns out to be noisier than YB I will switch back to it.
Thanks for all the replies,
Gary
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I`d go with yb. I`ve never tried pp,but I`ve used yb 20W50 and it ran extremely smooth and quiet. The only synth I`d ever use anymore would be a true PAO grp IV. If I`m going to use a dino,I`d just run a regular dino like Valvoline conventional or Pennz yb conventional. I used Valv Synpower 10W30 in my gf`s car on her last oci,and it`s definitely not as smooth as the Valv dino. Feels sluggish and she even noticed it too,saying her car doesn`t have as much get up and go. If grp III oils are just tweaked dinos,than I`ll just go for the regular dino oils.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Originally Posted By: GMFan
My vote is for the good ole' yellow bottle...
It's an amazing dino. Remember, the 5w20 is a semi-synthetic...and probably the best grade of Pennzoil.
This would be unofficial/unplublished information for YB 5W-20.
I would use the PP 5W-20 if I were going for a 1-year deal. Main reason being the Platinum has more calcium in it and will help combat any combustion and moister acids that might try to build up over a 1-year period.
Johnny, is the same thing true about 5w30 YB?
Why would they make 5W-20 a blend and then keep it a secret?
Originally Posted By: GMFan
My vote is for the good ole' yellow bottle...
It's an amazing dino. Remember, the 5w20 is a semi-synthetic...and probably the best grade of Pennzoil.
This would be unofficial/unplublished information for YB 5W-20.
I would use the PP 5W-20 if I were going for a 1-year deal. Main reason being the Platinum has more calcium in it and will help combat any combustion and moister acids that might try to build up over a 1-year period.
Johnny, is the same thing true about 5w30 YB?
Why would they make 5W-20 a blend and then keep it a secret?
No, YB 5w30 uses a Group II+ base stock.
It was rumored but never officially published that the YB 5W-20 had Group II+ and Group III base stocks in it. I really don't know if it does or not, but would not be surprised if it did. They do make a blend, it's called Truck and SUV, comes in a gold bottle. Great product but they do a lousy job of marketing it.
It was rumored but never officially published that the YB 5W-20 had Group II+ and Group III base stocks in it. I really don't know if it does or not, but would not be surprised if it did. They do make a blend, it's called Truck and SUV, comes in a gold bottle. Great product but they do a lousy job of marketing it.
Extended oil change interval the advantage is in the syn oil ,not extended oil change intervals you will never see any advantage with syn oils so the advantage turns to the dino oil.
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Extended oil change interval the advantage is in the syn oil ,not extended oil change intervals you will never see any advantage with syn oils so the advantage turns to the dino oil.
Steve can you rephrase this - not sure what you mean. Thanks.
Extended oil change interval the advantage is in the syn oil ,not extended oil change intervals you will never see any advantage with syn oils so the advantage turns to the dino oil.
Steve can you rephrase this - not sure what you mean. Thanks.
Conventional oil is not better than synthetic oil, nor is it equal to synthetic oil, no matter what some people would like to imagine. Sure, YB is one of the best conventional oils and would suit most applications just fine, but does it ever "beat" PP in any category other than its price? No. Since cost is not a factor in your criteria, PP is the obvious choice.
Tucson Five-O, I did not have anything better to do this afternoon, so I set here at my desk and flipped a coin five times. Heads, use PP, tails, use YB. Three out of five were heads. Use the PP. Problem solved.
Originally Posted By: erogers
Conventional oil is not better than synthetic oil, nor is it equal to synthetic oil, no matter what some people would like to imagine. Sure, YB is one of the best conventional oils and would suit most applications just fine, but does it ever "beat" PP in any category other than its price? No. Since cost is not a factor in your criteria, PP is the obvious choice.
What are the variables that you are basing this on?
Conventional oil is not better than synthetic oil, nor is it equal to synthetic oil, no matter what some people would like to imagine. Sure, YB is one of the best conventional oils and would suit most applications just fine, but does it ever "beat" PP in any category other than its price? No. Since cost is not a factor in your criteria, PP is the obvious choice.
What are the variables that you are basing this on?
Quote:
And I have seen some anecdotal evidence supplied here that show that YB Pennzoil use may actually improve gas mileage, albeit slightly, as opposed to PP 5W-20.
Who says that YB will give you better MPG over PP ???
Save your money and just use YB.
BTW.....you could of gotten this stuff for free if you went to PepBoys on Friday.
And I have seen some anecdotal evidence supplied here that show that YB Pennzoil use may actually improve gas mileage, albeit slightly, as opposed to PP 5W-20.
Who says that YB will give you better MPG over PP ???
Save your money and just use YB.
BTW.....you could of gotten this stuff for free if you went to PepBoys on Friday.
It's amazing as to the diversity of opinions on which oil to use.
LT4Vette, I could have sworn there have been several posts/comments that someone's mileage dropped when switching from PP5W-20 to YB 5W-20, but I could be mistaken.
I like Johnny's methodology the best. That was derived from many years working for Pennzoil I guess ;-)
I will try the PP but something tells me I will like the sound and feel of YB better. Isn't that how things in life so often are--we do all this research, compile data, then base our decision on a hunch or gut feeling?
Thanks guys. You've been great.
Gary
LT4Vette, I could have sworn there have been several posts/comments that someone's mileage dropped when switching from PP5W-20 to YB 5W-20, but I could be mistaken.
I like Johnny's methodology the best. That was derived from many years working for Pennzoil I guess ;-)
I will try the PP but something tells me I will like the sound and feel of YB better. Isn't that how things in life so often are--we do all this research, compile data, then base our decision on a hunch or gut feeling?
Thanks guys. You've been great.
Gary
Both oils will serve you well. For me I like Synthetic Oil for my new Jeep, and my E-150. For my high mileage beater, YB or another SM rated conventional oil is fine.
I would think going into the winter months the mileage gains would probably go to PP, that is if you can even calculate them.
Frank D
I would think going into the winter months the mileage gains would probably go to PP, that is if you can even calculate them.
Frank D
It's a new car, use the PP. My Mom's car is 12 years oil and she gets GTX 10w30 for her 1 year oil changes. I have all kinds of oil stashed and if she got a new car, I'd probally put synth in it. See?
Originally Posted By: webfors
PP if it's on sale, YB if not.
Funny, but I just did the opposite.... This Thansgiving holiday weekend, Pep Boys had YB on sale (normally $3.99, on sale for $1.99) I purchased the case that I was allowed and promptly changed the oil in my '07 4-Runner (draining the M1 0w20). We drive the vehicle rarely, putting on only 10k miles a year. I was 5 months in to an OCI of 6 months, but have decided to change up my OCI calendar to April 1 and October 1. Anyway, she got a new drink of YB 5w20.
Because I have 6 fresh quarts on the garage shelf of PP 5w30, it will go into the engine on April 1. I think I am going to run PP 5w30 in the Summer and YB 5w20 in the winter. (We tow a small camper trailer in the spring, summer and fall months, so I feel better with synthetic for that OCI.)
PP if it's on sale, YB if not.
Funny, but I just did the opposite.... This Thansgiving holiday weekend, Pep Boys had YB on sale (normally $3.99, on sale for $1.99) I purchased the case that I was allowed and promptly changed the oil in my '07 4-Runner (draining the M1 0w20). We drive the vehicle rarely, putting on only 10k miles a year. I was 5 months in to an OCI of 6 months, but have decided to change up my OCI calendar to April 1 and October 1. Anyway, she got a new drink of YB 5w20.
Because I have 6 fresh quarts on the garage shelf of PP 5w30, it will go into the engine on April 1. I think I am going to run PP 5w30 in the Summer and YB 5w20 in the winter. (We tow a small camper trailer in the spring, summer and fall months, so I feel better with synthetic for that OCI.)
Originally Posted By: tripleM
Originally Posted By: erogers
Conventional oil is not better than synthetic oil, nor is it equal to synthetic oil, no matter what some people would like to imagine. Sure, YB is one of the best conventional oils and would suit most applications just fine, but does it ever "beat" PP in any category other than its price? No. Since cost is not a factor in your criteria, PP is the obvious choice.
What are the variables that you are basing this on?
I'm not a chemist, so I'm not going to try to qualify my previous statement using chemical explanations. However, from a more practical approach, I will state that if you called Pennzoil and asked them which of their oils is the better of the two, they will tell you Pennzoil Platinum is better than Pennzoil Conventional based on extensive lab testing for its ability to withstand higher temperatures for longer periods and its shear stability. As long as I'm at it, I might as well throw in that PP's data for cold weather performance is much better than its conventional counterpart. I'm not trying to start an argument here. I'm just stating facts. There's nothing wrong with Pennzoil Conventional for most applications. Pennzoil Platinum will exceed Pennzoil Conventional's performance in extreme conditions, that's all.
Originally Posted By: erogers
Conventional oil is not better than synthetic oil, nor is it equal to synthetic oil, no matter what some people would like to imagine. Sure, YB is one of the best conventional oils and would suit most applications just fine, but does it ever "beat" PP in any category other than its price? No. Since cost is not a factor in your criteria, PP is the obvious choice.
What are the variables that you are basing this on?
I'm not a chemist, so I'm not going to try to qualify my previous statement using chemical explanations. However, from a more practical approach, I will state that if you called Pennzoil and asked them which of their oils is the better of the two, they will tell you Pennzoil Platinum is better than Pennzoil Conventional based on extensive lab testing for its ability to withstand higher temperatures for longer periods and its shear stability. As long as I'm at it, I might as well throw in that PP's data for cold weather performance is much better than its conventional counterpart. I'm not trying to start an argument here. I'm just stating facts. There's nothing wrong with Pennzoil Conventional for most applications. Pennzoil Platinum will exceed Pennzoil Conventional's performance in extreme conditions, that's all.
If its a new car, the engine is spotless and yellow bottle will KEEP it spotless.
That's the beauty of SM dino oils, no servicability issues. I used dino for the first few oil changes in my last 2 cars, observing the "dino break-in myth".
I guess that if we're going to be scientific about it the question would be, ignoring PP's advantage at extremes, i.e cold pumpability (remember I live in Tucson), extended drains (probably 7500+ miles), or high oil temperatures (maybe > 220F.+), does the group III PP have an inherent advantage over the group II+ for sure (maybe Group II+/GroupIII) oil?
I'm sure we could dig up reports where Mobil5000 which is very close/indistinguishable from Pennzoil Dino beat Mobil1 in UOA's over 5000 mile/1yr drain interval. And I would say from a cleanliness standpoint on a new well maintained engine it would not have any varnish issues worth speaking about.
That is the ultimate question regarding superiority of one oil over the other oil--does it exist in this application and driving habits? I think this is the real question I am posing as I know both will work fine for many years without a doubt. Interesting stuff.
Gary
I'm sure we could dig up reports where Mobil5000 which is very close/indistinguishable from Pennzoil Dino beat Mobil1 in UOA's over 5000 mile/1yr drain interval. And I would say from a cleanliness standpoint on a new well maintained engine it would not have any varnish issues worth speaking about.
That is the ultimate question regarding superiority of one oil over the other oil--does it exist in this application and driving habits? I think this is the real question I am posing as I know both will work fine for many years without a doubt. Interesting stuff.
Gary
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