Can seafoam do this? If not, what can??

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So I ran a bottle of seafoam deep creep through the brake booster line. All was fine for about a day.. then there was violent engine vibrations at idle.
I changed the plugs and things got a bit better (but FAR from normal). Heres what I saw
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I have oil in the plugs - which was dismissed as a valve cover gasket.. but that wouldnt cause all this trouble out of nowhere!

I received one CEL, through a dashboard trick using the gas pedal I was able to retreive an Idle Control Actuator error. I swapped ICVs and MAFs with a friend today and nada! What could it be?

Car is a 94 318is. m42 motor
 
Harsh quick methods like that produce problems. Not that you deserve it, but you should expect it.
New plugs should fix you up in this case.

Try and avoid Bosch spark plugs. New or down the road, you will get a high incidence of misfires. We won't use them in the shop anymore.
 
I installed new plugs but the miss is still there. Along with engine vibrations.

Glad to hear that this isnt the end of the world.. I thought for sure that the spark plug meant something was broken.

p.s. hate Bosch, NGK all the way!
 
If no CEL, then recheck those plug wires.

Maybe one of them came off just enough for rough idle; one or more may also be broken inside if they're old. Although if that's true, a misfire should have triggered CEL. Somethings not adding up... not sure why.

We're all shooting in the dark - it'd be helpful to know car, engine and mileage. Also, what symptoms caused you to Seafoam it in the first place?
 
I just wanted to clean the intake. The idle wasnt perfect, but that car was running good. I'm regretting it right now.

I did receive a CEL for Idle Control Valve. But I tried replacing it and nothing.

I have coils and wires coming in the mail. Could the seafoam be unrelated?

Its just hard to imagine this coming out of nowhere. I just bought the car about a week ago. Is there something the owner could have done to make this problem less obvious?

It is a 1994 318is with 190k. Clean looking motor, thats why I bought it. Obviously looks can be deceiving. It may have also overheated not too long ago, since it has a brand new looking radiator.
 
Did you recheck the vacuum hose you removed/replaced for this procedure? If it's as old as that motor, it may be cracked or not fitting tightly anymore.

Did you knock off any other vacuum hoses during this operation?

Sorry - that's all I have. Maybe a BMW expert will chime in. It's probably worth your while to join a 3-series forum.
 
I replaced all hoses. The thing is this didnt start immediately after the procedure, it happened after a long highway run.

I'll look again for hoses, but idling is not my main issue. I feel vibrations almost all the time now. Sounds like it smooths out after 2.5k
 
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Pull the new plugs and check them out. I use Bosch coppers in my 528e, It doesnt like plats and I consider the multi-electrode plats to be rubbish.
 
I pulled the new plugs. 3 are black (with less than 10 miles driven!) And the first cylinder still looks clean with some oil on it. WTH! The thing that kills me is that it wasnt like this before..
 
I don't think it matters, and it probably doesn't but why Seafoam "Deep Creep"? Isn't that another product? As opposed to regular Seafoam, which is what I use...

Deep Creep is for loosening old rusty bolts, or so I thought.
 
Ah, OK. I went out to the Seafoam site and I guess Deep Creep can be used in this manner as well. You used a whole can? You must have really loosened up something!
 
Judging from the spark plugs pic, what seriously concerns me would be plug #3, which portion of the center electrode tip of your Bosch platinum+2 is broken (fall off).

First off, w/o knowing your car/engine service history, I must say that if your engine was burning motor oil before, it will not help even after you repeatedly runs seafoam (seafoam cannot creep deep enough into the oil ctrl rings to decarbonise/free up sticky rings).

Secondly, your hesitation (rough idling) after this incident may have been caused by the broken ceramic tip of plug#3 causing valve sealing issues, or cylinder wall deep scouring, or a combination of both. To find out more is to perform a compression test, a leakdown test, etc. to determine it state.

If my 2nd point is true, you'll have to pull the head to check or even have your engine serviced in order to regain proper engine functionality and balance compression readings over all 4 cylinders, assuming that all other components are in good working order (IAC, PCV, vacuum, ignition, etc.)

My 2c's worth.

Q.
 
better run a compression and leakdown test on all 4
sounds and looks like a locked compression ring from loosen carbon caused by the Seafoam that didn't go out the exhaust but instead was trapped in the ring groove
prevents oil scrapdown and excessive oiling

try a Moluasoak
search forum

or you've been sold a lemon
bad valve guide seals
worn valve guides and/or stems
broken ring/rings

should be some codes with all that misfire?

these multi electrode plugs cause flame front problems in hi rev engines. go iridium if cost not problem or the old standby coppers
 
thanks for all the info.

I searched for Moluasoak and found nothing.

I will have a compression done today.. hopefully nothing too expensive, but I cant imagine it being a cheap fix. But I will wait and receive info from my mechanic.

I forgot to mention.. I added a bottle of SLOB at around the same time. Is it possible that could mess up my O2 sensor?

Engine codes blink while I drive, but then go away. I will have to take it to a dealer to pull stored codes.
 
That oiled plug tip if fine. It did not break off.
They come that way.
At this point, manually clean the throttle body and bore with solvent and a rag, and also the idle air motor. Be careful with strong solvents on the idle air motor.
 
Thats good news mechtech.

IAM = Idle control valve? If so, I cleaned it, and not much has changed.

I also tried a friends ICV, but the engine would still shake.

The engine quited down a lot, but feels very sluggish once its warmed up. It also had trouble starting yesterday, but not today? hmm.

I'm starting to think it could be an air leak. But how could an air leak start after a highway run? Air + vibration moving hoses? Couldnt take it to the shop today.. going tomorrow. Also gonna learn how to use a multimeter yay
smile.gif
 
seafoam thru the brake booster is only 1 way, and should not be the only way to clean things out. better to shoot the whole intake out from the front first with Deep Creep or Air Intake Cleaner spray (hot engine off), or the water method but i would finish with the Air Intake Cleaner spray to remove the oily seafoam/deep creep, then drive it for 30min.
 
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What is the water method? So youre saying to throw air intake cleaner into the throttle body/intake?
 
I'm sorry you are having trouble. I am no mechanic, but consider that the Cat Converter may be restricted / plugged-up. This happened to me on an old Chevy, but not due to any additive. Your comment that it now feels sluggish when warm reminded me of this. My car would not go over 62 MPH until I had the cat replaced. It clearly sounded strained at idle, so that was a big clue. I know your codes are pointing to the intake, but consider the whole flow path.

Perhaps the O2 sensors may have been weakened by the Seafoam?

I suggest a compression test as a next step.

This is an odd problem. I hear only good things about Seafoam, but I have never used it myself.
 
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