Caliper question
- Thread starter supton
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From my (limited, but convincing) experience, compressed air, the almost universally suggested method, is a snare and a delusion.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4072698/1
The thing is built to be pushed out by the hydraulic pressure from the brake pedal.
Push it out with the hydraulic pressure from the brake pedal.
If you've taken it off, put it back on again.
You only need to hook up the hose, not a full re-install, though you might have to bleed it if you've got a lot of air in the system.
Might help to lubricate behind the dust boot with brake fluid and/or vegetable oil, to help it on its way out. If (as you say above) its already half way out, ease the dust boot over the lubricated piston before you apply more pressure.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4072698/1
The thing is built to be pushed out by the hydraulic pressure from the brake pedal.
Push it out with the hydraulic pressure from the brake pedal.
If you've taken it off, put it back on again.
You only need to hook up the hose, not a full re-install, though you might have to bleed it if you've got a lot of air in the system.
Might help to lubricate behind the dust boot with brake fluid and/or vegetable oil, to help it on its way out. If (as you say above) its already half way out, ease the dust boot over the lubricated piston before you apply more pressure.
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Might help to lubricate behind the dust boot with brake fluid and/or vegetable oil, to help it on its way out.
Don't use anything other than brake fluid or glycol grease supplied in the kit because it could contaminate the system.
See the OEM repair pics above. You need to remove the snap ring and boot first. You can use a ball-inflation adapter (available at 99 Cent Only stores if you don't have one) attached to a gas-station air hose or bicycle pump. Sure, pushing with the brake pedal will also work, as that's how I did it myself.
Might help to lubricate behind the dust boot with brake fluid and/or vegetable oil, to help it on its way out.
Don't use anything other than brake fluid or glycol grease supplied in the kit because it could contaminate the system.
See the OEM repair pics above. You need to remove the snap ring and boot first. You can use a ball-inflation adapter (available at 99 Cent Only stores if you don't have one) attached to a gas-station air hose or bicycle pump. Sure, pushing with the brake pedal will also work, as that's how I did it myself.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Might help to lubricate behind the dust boot with brake fluid and/or vegetable oil, to help it on its way out.
Don't use anything other than brake fluid or glycol grease supplied in the kit because it could contaminate the system.
Well, you're dismantling this to (presumably) give it a good clean. In that context, its rather hard to see how stuff applied behind the dust boot is going to contaminate "the system".
I thought of Canola oil because its probably a better lubricant than brake fluid and specialist brake greases (which wouldn't be sufficiently penetrative anyway) are unobtainable here. Didn't try it last time but will next.
If it bothers you, though, stick to brake fluid.
My manual says to remove the snap ring and dust boot first, but forgets to mention that this might be impossible, which it was. It was, however, possible after removal of the piston, which (on the Daihatsu) is possible without removing the dust boot or snap ring. YM (on a different car) MV.
If you've got a seal kit this won't matter much since you'll be replacing, but I didn't have one.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Might help to lubricate behind the dust boot with brake fluid and/or vegetable oil, to help it on its way out.
Don't use anything other than brake fluid or glycol grease supplied in the kit because it could contaminate the system.
Well, you're dismantling this to (presumably) give it a good clean. In that context, its rather hard to see how stuff applied behind the dust boot is going to contaminate "the system".
I thought of Canola oil because its probably a better lubricant than brake fluid and specialist brake greases (which wouldn't be sufficiently penetrative anyway) are unobtainable here. Didn't try it last time but will next.
If it bothers you, though, stick to brake fluid.
My manual says to remove the snap ring and dust boot first, but forgets to mention that this might be impossible, which it was. It was, however, possible after removal of the piston, which (on the Daihatsu) is possible without removing the dust boot or snap ring. YM (on a different car) MV.
If you've got a seal kit this won't matter much since you'll be replacing, but I didn't have one.
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
If you've got a seal kit this won't matter much since you'll be replacing, but I didn't have one.
Of course, all the boots and seals are included in the $17.35 Toyota OEM rebuild kit part no. 04479-0C040. It even includes new bleed-plug caps. The red stuff in the poach is otherwise-impossible-to-get infamous elusive Toyota lithium-soap-base glycol grease for which no one seems to have access other than Toyota.
If you've got a seal kit this won't matter much since you'll be replacing, but I didn't have one.
Of course, all the boots and seals are included in the $17.35 Toyota OEM rebuild kit part no. 04479-0C040. It even includes new bleed-plug caps. The red stuff in the poach is otherwise-impossible-to-get infamous elusive Toyota lithium-soap-base glycol grease for which no one seems to have access other than Toyota.
I couldn't see anything either until I'd got the piston out, and even then I had to dig for it.
Based on that experience, (with the caveat that that experience was with a different car) if I were you, I'd ignore the instruction to remove the boot and circlip first, blow the piston out, and then see what you can see.
I found I needed a very small but good quality screwdriver to dig the circlip out of its bed of corrosion. Bought one specially.
Seems likely there are better tools for the job, but you might have to sleep with a dentist to get them.
Based on that experience, (with the caveat that that experience was with a different car) if I were you, I'd ignore the instruction to remove the boot and circlip first, blow the piston out, and then see what you can see.
I found I needed a very small but good quality screwdriver to dig the circlip out of its bed of corrosion. Bought one specially.
Seems likely there are better tools for the job, but you might have to sleep with a dentist to get them.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The red stuff in the poach is otherwise-impossible-to-get infamous elusive Toyota lithium-soap-base glycol grease for which no one seems to have access other than Toyota.
I bought some "red brake grease" in Autobacs in Yokohama. Dunno what's in it though since the writing on the tube is all in foreign, and it probably doesn't say anyway.
The red stuff in the poach is otherwise-impossible-to-get infamous elusive Toyota lithium-soap-base glycol grease for which no one seems to have access other than Toyota.
I bought some "red brake grease" in Autobacs in Yokohama. Dunno what's in it though since the writing on the tube is all in foreign, and it probably doesn't say anyway.
Oh my God, is that rust all over the piston? I wonder what happened. My 31-year-old cylinders didn't have any rust or pits at all. Bad brake fluid?
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The red stuff in the poach is otherwise-impossible-to-get infamous elusive Toyota lithium-soap-base glycol grease for which no one seems to have access other than Toyota.
I bought some "red brake grease" in Autobacs in Yokohama. Dunno what's in it though since the writing on the tube is all in foreign, and it probably doesn't say anyway.
Regular grease is soap mixed with oil. Glycol grease is nothing but soap mixed with brake fluid (which is glycol) instead.
I think glycol grease is more of an assembly lube than rebuilding grease. Chances are that it's better to use brake fluid in the parts that come into contact with brake fluid. That way you won't have soap floating around in your system. You can use CRC brake grease where there is no contact with brake fluid. However, it seems to be OK to use brake-fluid grease (glycol grease) on the booted bushings/pivots according to the Toyota repair manual (see pics above) rather than CRC high-temperature brake grease or similar.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The red stuff in the poach is otherwise-impossible-to-get infamous elusive Toyota lithium-soap-base glycol grease for which no one seems to have access other than Toyota.
I bought some "red brake grease" in Autobacs in Yokohama. Dunno what's in it though since the writing on the tube is all in foreign, and it probably doesn't say anyway.
Regular grease is soap mixed with oil. Glycol grease is nothing but soap mixed with brake fluid (which is glycol) instead.
I think glycol grease is more of an assembly lube than rebuilding grease. Chances are that it's better to use brake fluid in the parts that come into contact with brake fluid. That way you won't have soap floating around in your system. You can use CRC brake grease where there is no contact with brake fluid. However, it seems to be OK to use brake-fluid grease (glycol grease) on the booted bushings/pivots according to the Toyota repair manual (see pics above) rather than CRC high-temperature brake grease or similar.
That piston may need replacing, you can get Millers grease for brake seals.
http://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5196TB-Rubber-grease/dp/B00JFF4VF6
http://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5196TB-Rubber-grease/dp/B00JFF4VF6
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I doubt rebuilding would work with so much rust on the outside of the pistons, where they slide against the seal, though. OEM pistons are $31.40 list price each.
http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/parts-list/2010-toyota-tundra/rear-disc-brake-caliper-dust-cover.html
You may want to order the kit and pistons online and save some money.
http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/parts-list/2010-toyota-tundra/rear-disc-brake-caliper-dust-cover.html
You may want to order the kit and pistons online and save some money.
Originally Posted By: Trav
That piston may need replacing, you can get Millers grease for brake seals.
http://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5196TB-Rubber-grease/dp/B00JFF4VF6
I wouldn't use anything other than plain brake fluid or brake-fluid grease (glycol grease) on the piston seals and piston boots. It will all dissolve in the brake fluid anyway and you don't want to contaminate the system.
That piston may need replacing, you can get Millers grease for brake seals.
http://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5196TB-Rubber-grease/dp/B00JFF4VF6
I wouldn't use anything other than plain brake fluid or brake-fluid grease (glycol grease) on the piston seals and piston boots. It will all dissolve in the brake fluid anyway and you don't want to contaminate the system.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Oh my God, is that rust all over the piston? I wonder what happened. My 31-year-old cylinders didn't have any rust or pits at all. Bad brake fluid?
Not sure but I'm pretty sure it was road salt. Trav et al can comment on how common this is in the Northeast (or not).
If I can get the piston out I'm guessing that'd clean up with some emery cloth. Not sure I really want to install, bleed, push out, then install the reman & bleed, rebuild this old caliper, install, bleed. I should try tonight to toss into the vice and attack with pliers first, see if I can twist/rip it out. Edit: or not, as I see your comment about not believing it'd clean up. Piston is cheap enough, come up with a parts order and try next weekend. I think first I should look at removal.
Oh my God, is that rust all over the piston? I wonder what happened. My 31-year-old cylinders didn't have any rust or pits at all. Bad brake fluid?
Not sure but I'm pretty sure it was road salt. Trav et al can comment on how common this is in the Northeast (or not).
If I can get the piston out I'm guessing that'd clean up with some emery cloth. Not sure I really want to install, bleed, push out, then install the reman & bleed, rebuild this old caliper, install, bleed. I should try tonight to toss into the vice and attack with pliers first, see if I can twist/rip it out. Edit: or not, as I see your comment about not believing it'd clean up. Piston is cheap enough, come up with a parts order and try next weekend. I think first I should look at removal.
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Have you considered a remanufactured caliper and not have to go through this hassle of rebuilding one.
Originally Posted By: supton
Not sure but I'm pretty sure it was road salt. Trav et al can comment on how common this is in the Northeast (or not).
Yep. I was waiting in anticipation as Gohkan pushed this project towards the rebuilding idea. The chromed pistons get that way here in Michigan too. The last time I considered rebuilding some Escort calipers, the parts cost, including new piston, was only about $15 less than buying a rebuilt one. But, as already shown here, rebuilt quality varies too. What's a mother to do??
I feel your pain, Supton. Been there, done that. Will repeat, I'm sure.
Not sure but I'm pretty sure it was road salt. Trav et al can comment on how common this is in the Northeast (or not).
Yep. I was waiting in anticipation as Gohkan pushed this project towards the rebuilding idea. The chromed pistons get that way here in Michigan too. The last time I considered rebuilding some Escort calipers, the parts cost, including new piston, was only about $15 less than buying a rebuilt one. But, as already shown here, rebuilt quality varies too. What's a mother to do??
I feel your pain, Supton. Been there, done that. Will repeat, I'm sure.
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Have you considered a remanufactured caliper and not have to go through this hassle of rebuilding one.
I bought two remans and replaced both on the axle. One was poorly machined, luckily on the side that was fine (I thought I'd proactively replace--bad move). The second is still on there. But it drags. I can drive 50 miles and the braking surface is too hot to touch, but the rotor hat is merely uncomfortably warm. mpg is down slightly but not horribly.
But the fact remains: the reman is dragging. So do I drop $225 on 47850-0C010 to fix that, while eating $100 on the reman that I've been using for the last week?
This is my daily driver, and downtime is unacceptable.
Have you considered a remanufactured caliper and not have to go through this hassle of rebuilding one.
I bought two remans and replaced both on the axle. One was poorly machined, luckily on the side that was fine (I thought I'd proactively replace--bad move). The second is still on there. But it drags. I can drive 50 miles and the braking surface is too hot to touch, but the rotor hat is merely uncomfortably warm. mpg is down slightly but not horribly.
But the fact remains: the reman is dragging. So do I drop $225 on 47850-0C010 to fix that, while eating $100 on the reman that I've been using for the last week?
This is my daily driver, and downtime is unacceptable.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Trav
That piston may need replacing, you can get Millers grease for brake seals.
http://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5196TB-Rubber-grease/dp/B00JFF4VF6
I wouldn't use anything other than plain brake fluid or brake-fluid grease (glycol grease) on the piston seals and piston boots. It will all dissolve in the brake fluid anyway and you don't want to contaminate the system.
Millers has been used for decades without issue. It stays in place and prevents future rusting of the piston, prevents wear and preserves the seals, it is compatible with brake fluid.
BTW Millers is an OE suppliers of this brake grease.
http://www.redrubbergrease.com/
http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-to-brake-caliper-failure-repair-with-rebuild-kit.html
Originally Posted By: Trav
That piston may need replacing, you can get Millers grease for brake seals.
http://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5196TB-Rubber-grease/dp/B00JFF4VF6
I wouldn't use anything other than plain brake fluid or brake-fluid grease (glycol grease) on the piston seals and piston boots. It will all dissolve in the brake fluid anyway and you don't want to contaminate the system.
Millers has been used for decades without issue. It stays in place and prevents future rusting of the piston, prevents wear and preserves the seals, it is compatible with brake fluid.
BTW Millers is an OE suppliers of this brake grease.
http://www.redrubbergrease.com/
http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-to-brake-caliper-failure-repair-with-rebuild-kit.html
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I hear you my friend, it is hard for a daily commute ride to go down.
BTW, those screw in pistons are the biggest PITA, it never goes back in neatly like those hollow pistons.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/suspension-brakes/229713-how-do-i-depress-caliper-piston-back.html
The hollow ones are a gem to push back.
BTW, those screw in pistons are the biggest PITA, it never goes back in neatly like those hollow pistons.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/suspension-brakes/229713-how-do-i-depress-caliper-piston-back.html
The hollow ones are a gem to push back.
I would order both the new OEM pistons and new OEM kit online from the link above for about $65. I doubt sandpaper or anything else on the rust-eaten pistons would work. I would use the sandpaper inside the cylinder and by the piston-seal groove inside the cylinder.
You still need to be able get the rust-welded old piston out though.
That road salt seems to be a pain. My 31-year-old pistons looked brand-new.
You still need to be able get the rust-welded old piston out though.
That road salt seems to be a pain. My 31-year-old pistons looked brand-new.
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