Bypass worth it for my application?

[cfromc]

Hi all,

I have a 2001 Suburban with 117K and I want to get another 100K and 6+ years out of it. I've run Amsoil TSO in the past, then switched to XL 5W-30, using the OLM. I'll likely be switching to HDD 5W-30 in the future and running 10-15K OCI with an EaO filter. The engine is stock with the exception of a K&N air filter. I rarely pull any load except for a lot of people. It runs a mix of city and highway and sees temps between ~0 up to about 100.

My question is: I have found an Amsoil Bypass system BMK-11 for about $50, new, with the 90 series filter; it is worth it for me to install this system? I don't really want to put a hole in the oil pan or the filler cap so I will probably need to use some kind of sandwich adapter. I've been reading the forums for the past couple of days about bypass systems and I'm more confused now than when I started.

Questions:
Will the bypass give me some insurance when taking OCI's to 15K, is it overkill, or should I not be taking it to 15K anyway?

Should I be concered with a major loss of oil pressure/flow? I currently run about 60-75 PSI cold at idle and 45-60 hot at idle.

Is there really that much of a reduction in wear when using a bypass? (I will be hitting the UOA forums to search for UOA w/bypass but please give input)

If I do go with the bypass, which sandwich adapter will work?

And, finally, are these things more trouble than they're worth for a non-fleet, light-duty, passenger vehicle?

 

[LarryL]

A bypass filter will give you cleaner oil. The flow and pressure it will take of the existing pump will not effect the engine. The best way to use a bypass filter is to "T" off the oil pressure sender and return the oil to a no pressure return area, the pan or the oil fill cap or the valve cover. If you do the work yourself, you can hardly loose. You can always transfer it to the next vehicle, and plug the two holes you made in the system. Everyone is like an experiment in one, so it's hard to tell what the benefits will be. You can do a couple of uoa's and become an expert in your use of oil and filters. How do you think anyone else ever learns, besides listening to stories that may be less than useful.

Stay away from the Amsoil dual remote with a full flow and bypass filter. You don't need the complication and the fuss. Simple is better. Just install a bypass all by itself and don't use a sandwich adapter. Figure it out with a "T" and return.

 

[Gary Allan]

The bypass will keep your particle accumulation down over whatever duration you run the oil. It won't assure that the oil is suited to the application or type of service that you're doing. That is, if the oil is good to 15k, then the bypass will keep it cleaner along the way. Deposit control should be enhanced. I don't think it's overkill ..but then again, I like doing this stuff

(it's sorta like that 4 out of 5 suffer with "fill in the blank" ..meaning that 1 out of 5 apparently enjoy the experience.)

You should have no major loss of oil pressure. If your pump is of a higher volume type, then you may have to drill a small hole in the sandwich (if that's the way you go). You have a fairly narrow span between max and normal idle pressure. You may see some cold pressure reduction ..but I doubt that you would see any after warm up.

The reduction in wear is from the elimination of larger particles playing racketball in the interior. This will eliminate most of them. It won't effect the production of those particles. They came from somewhere. It will only stop their coincidental damage.

Permacool will work for you. You can also use a Hayden that's available on ebay. It has a thermostatic, bimetal, spring that closes as the oil warms. It closes over an open port. Price: $40+/- delievered.

Well, hard to say. You want to get another 6 years out of it. You're going to encounter other things that may trash the vehicle in the next 6 years. You'll be falling into the 10-11 year old ownership commonality that many adhere to from buying new.

How can I say this

I don't think that using it will make it any more likely that you reach 200k or 11-12 years of ownership. I think that your engine will be in better shape at that time for having it installed.

 

[TooSlick]

I wouldn't bother with the added complexity,since 10k-15k with HDD and the new oil filters should be easy to do.

I have to say, I'd toss the K&N and also install the high efficiency, EAA air filter. I REALLY don't like K&N's for long OCI's, since they let in too much silicon.

TS

 

[cfromc]

I will be watching the UOA, especially the silicon content. I've been using K&N for several years and never had a problem...until I started researching these things. I plan on buying two new vehicles in the next 3 years and neither will get a K&N, although every vehicle I own (5) right now has one. On the Suburban I noticed a slight increase in MPG w/K&N, but of course that improvement will mean nothing if the engine goes south. K&N definitely has their place and if maximum power is desired, that's where they shine.

As far as the bypass, one drawback mentioned often is the price, another is the complexity/room for error. Well, the price I found is right (under $100 w/sandwich) including the filter, and I feel comfortable with the installation itself, as long as I have the correct parts. I think I'm going to do it.

 

[rmattingley]

Ive got a silverado with a 5.3. you can plum into the oil cooler plate with 1/4 npt and return to the oil fill neck. I mounted mine on the firewall right above the steering shaft.

Works very well.