Break in oil

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Car is a 2001 Audi A4 1.8T with GT2871R. Recently built the block with forged rods and different pistons. Broke in the motor with Lucas Break in motor oil, and wanting to know what to place in next. I have roughly 250 miles on the new engine. What engine oil would you recommend I drive for the next 1000 miles or so till I switch to full synthetic? I know it must be high in zinc, but kind of lost on what to do here. Thanks guys.

Edit: Can I just get a new gallon of this stuff and run it for another 1000 miles or so? Is this a good thing to do? Or is there a better alternative?
 
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I am not supposed to use synthetic motor oil till engine is broken in. Redline is synthetic. I mean this Lucas stuff is also engineered, but is designed specifically for this application. I don't mind throwing in another $40 gallon (after shipping) of this stuff if it means it will help my engine make it to the 200K mark and maybe even further. I'm basically sitting at that step which is crucial to have the engine make it to there.

I'm pretty sure I broke the engine in properly thus far. Piston rings will fully seat within the next 1000 miles or so, so I'm trying to go the best route to complete the seating and not have my compression drop significantly over the years.
 
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i meant defy with a little zinc additive (redline) if you where that worried over it.I wont use lucas anything but the break in additive they have would be ok for a break in only with good oil.With 250 miles its probably broken in for the most part. I would just use higher zinc dino and run it another 1000 miles like you said and kinda take it easy still.
 
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I was contemplating adding zinc additive to simple SAE 30 non-detergent cheap Walmart oil (can't recall what brand they have, but bleh). I'm taking it this is what you suggest? I still want to hopefully get some other posts to see what people suggest, so I can decide with more options. But your input is much appreciated. Thanks!
 
why SAE oil for the detergent?? I would run any HDEO as long as its 10w30 if thats what you want.I dont really think you need any extra zinc if you use high zinc oil atleast in the 800-900 ppm range atleast.I think you are on the right plan for the most part.I would use any decent SYN after another 1000 miles PP whatever i am not a fan of high dollar oils.If your on this site you already know there are low priced ones that are just as good.
 
I was just told to run SAE 30 non-detergent oil, but I'm one of those people who like to do things different (we all knows this will either bite us in the @$$ or we discover something new). Cheap Auto Zone oil would suffice and Walmart stuff is even cheaper (why I asked about this with zinc additive). People have different numbers as to when it comes to changing it, but I'm looking to be in the 1000-1500 mile range before I switch to full synthetic. During the process, I am just trying to figure out how to make my piston rings seat the best. That is about it, in a nutshell. And where I'm currently at, the cost of running expensive stuff for the sanctity of my motor for only 1000 miles is nothing in comparison to having it last me maybe till I die (yes, I'm never getting rid of this car). Currently 250 miles in.
 
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Ahh, broke down and ordered the Amsoil stuff. Then will run the Rotella T6 in roughly 750 miles or so. I already have the Rotella, so that won't cost me. Not a bad decision I think...hopefully! And I stock pile filters.

Thanks for the feedback though, jsnyder49090. It was very much appreciated.
 
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I think the amsoil is good but overkill but maybe gives you the peace of mind and it doesnt sound like a cheap rebuild so.The T-6 is 10w30 yes? I think thats a good choice.
 
Originally Posted By: jsnyder49090
I think the amsoil is good but overkill but maybe gives you the peace of mind and it doesnt sound like a cheap rebuild so.The T-6 is 10w30 yes? I think thats a good choice.


5w40. I will more than likely switch to a heavier weight. Need to see how my oil pressure looks once it's in first. My oil pressure light never went off when running this weight, but my VEI gauge says that it is rather low at idle (looks really good out of idle). People switch to heavier weights to counteract this, so it's not an isolated issue with my vehicle.
 
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