Break in oil should be dino: myth?

[ron in sc]

Is it a myth that break in oil which I suppose would also be called the factory fill needs to be dino oil?

If so than what is so different or unique that allows all the vehicles in the link below have a factory fill of Synthetic oil?

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Manufacturers_Choice.aspx

 

[Johnny]

Break in oil is old school. Much has changed with building materials since the 40's, 50's, 60's, and 70's. I believe most modern engines would be just fine with synthetic from the start.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I`d say it must be one of the many synth myths imo.

 

[StevieC]

While I don't think that break-in needs to be done with Dino, I use Dino for the first couple of oil changes because I change it quite frequently within the first 3,000 miles to rid the engine of any assembly lubes and/or contaminants that ended up in the engine during assembly...

I swap out the factory fill at 500 miles, then 1,000 miles, then 3,000 miles then follow the manual with a quality synthetic.

I use Dino because changing synthetic at these intervals would be too expensive.

 

[GMorg]

There seems to be some members that think there may be more to this than myth. In addition, the question needs some qualifiers related to "new engine". The answer seems to depend on how the engine is manufactured and if the oil blender has access to "new engines" for testing. Below is a link to a thread from a couple of years ago that deals with this question.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/664056/

 

[FastSUV]

It matters more for flat-tappet engines than most engines today since they are roller motors.

I say Rotella is a good one for break-in since it has lots of good additives in here to cushion the new motor.

But any dino IMHO is still the best choice for at least the 1st oil change on a new vehicle. I have heard of motors broken in on syn where the rings never sealed right for the life of the engine.

 

[Smokescreen]

I too used dino for the first interval because it was a short one. I went to PP right after that though...

 

[Dupree]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
While I don't think that break-in needs to be done with Dino, I use Dino for the first couple of oil changes because I change it quite frequently within the first 3,000 miles to rid the engine of any assembly lubes and/or contaminants that ended up in the engine during assembly...

I swap out the factory fill at 500 miles, then 1,000 miles, then 3,000 miles then follow the manual with a quality synthetic.

I use Dino because changing synthetic at these intervals would be too expensive.



I agree with Stevie, I use dino for the first two and change the first at 2000 oci. I like to get break in junk out soon. maybe I am just paranoid but hey we are on this forum because we are obsessed with oil right ?

 

[ArrestMeRedZ]

For domestics, I use dino for the first few changes. Once it's stopped using oil, I figure the rings have properly seated, and I switch to syn.
I do remember reading a TSB (a long time ago) concerning use of too much oil in the LS1 in a Corvette. Techs were told to switch to dino to try and seat the rings.

 

[Dominic]

Many performance cars come with synthetic from the factory. It does no harm to them. I don't think it really matters.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
While I don't think that break-in needs to be done with Dino, I use Dino for the first couple of oil changes because I change it quite frequently within the first 3,000 miles to rid the engine of any assembly lubes and/or contaminants that ended up in the engine during assembly...

I swap out the factory fill at 500 miles, then 1,000 miles, then 3,000 miles then follow the manual with a quality synthetic.

I use Dino because changing synthetic at these intervals would be too expensive.



I do pretty much the same thing, and at about 2500-3000 miles I'm using synthetic oil.

 

[caveatipse]

My Toyota owner's manual says, "No elaborate break-in period is required." I guess read into that what you want lol.

 

[Jaymus]

I think the best thing about using a dino oil for break-in is that it's cheap to change frequently. Otherwise, I don't know what's true and what's not. Like, people say rings don't seat with synthetic.

I don't know what to believe, but I always assumed that cars that call for synthetic come from the factory with synthetic as the first thing to ever be put in the engine. They never have problems.

 

[GMBoy]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
Break in oil is old school. Much has changed with building materials since the 40's, 50's, 60's, and 70's. I believe most modern engines would be just fine with synthetic from the start.



Agreed. Plus-I think the simple fact that so many autos come factory filled with Mobil 1 syn oil should be more than enough to dispell this myth.

 

[StevieC]

My Hyundai manual says that no formal break-in is required however they recommend not taking the car past 80 for the first so many miles and to not accelerate hard or lug/load the engine too much.

They also say that the factory fill of oil is good for 6,000 KM (3,500 Miles).

I have always followed my advise posted above with all cars and have never had oil consumption or premature wear issues with any of my engines. All my engines have lasted until at least 400,000 KM (250,000 miles) or more.

Happy Driving!

 

[demarpaint]

No elaborate break-in is needed, just mix up the speed for the first 500 miles or so. I decided to change oil early to get any [censored] from assembly out of the engine sooner rather than later. It's worked for me over the years, and to me that's all that really matters. Using synthetic oil during this period isn't necessary, if you plan on dropping the oil early. JMO

 

[GMorg]

So, when Redline states on their bottle "not for engine break-in", is this some marketing ploy? Is MolaKule's previous explanation in the linked discussion not longer applicable?

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: GMorg
So, when Redline states on their bottle "not for engine break-in", is this some marketing ploy? Is MolaKule's previous explanation in the linked discussion not longer applicable?


Never said that... Just said that I have always followed my advise as stated and never had a problem. Never said I was right, just stating what worked/works for me is all.

 

[Jaymus]

I didn't know that, GMorg, thanks for bringing that to light. I wonder why they state that. Maybe someone in the company still adheres by the old school following of breaking in with conventional. Or maybe something in there oil really isn't the best thing for seating rings and breaking in an engine. Hard to say.

 

[GMorg]

In the old thread, the major issue that came up was glazed cylinders. And, I am not knocking Redline, but I wonder if they are trying to make their oil seem so "slick" that an engine won't break-in. That angle may help them sell more oil after break-in. They do sell a break-in additive to add to conventional oil to protect against excessive wear. I suppose that if they were really trying to be gimicky, that they would suggest that the break-in additive be added to their oil. They don't do that. So, I think that they think they are giving good advice.