Break in oil on a crate motor
- Thread starter NavyVet88
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How much are Crate motors broken in?
I would assume, at leat as much as a new motor in a car at the dealership.
What are the break-in recomendations from the engine supplier?
Without other instructions, I would just run a conventional 10w30 for a 500 mile OCI.
I would assume, at leat as much as a new motor in a car at the dealership.
What are the break-in recomendations from the engine supplier?
Without other instructions, I would just run a conventional 10w30 for a 500 mile OCI.
Break in oil is high in zinc anti-wear additives. I'm not sure what is locally avaliable to you, but race oils like valvoline VR1 are also high in zinc. If you want to increase your options.
I would use a road suitable, high zinc, mineral race oil as a break in (we say running in) oil, if I couldn't find a official break in oil. Around me, race oils are easier to find.
Break in oil or race oil, I would change it out early (with new filter), about 1k to 2k miles, then switch to a full synthetic (or whatever my regular oil will be).
I would use a road suitable, high zinc, mineral race oil as a break in (we say running in) oil, if I couldn't find a official break in oil. Around me, race oils are easier to find.
Break in oil or race oil, I would change it out early (with new filter), about 1k to 2k miles, then switch to a full synthetic (or whatever my regular oil will be).
Originally Posted By: SR5
Break in oil is high in zinc anti-wear additives. I'm not sure what is locally avaliable to you, but race oils like valvoline VR1 are also high in zinc. If you want to increase your options.
I would use a road suitable, high zinc, mineral race oil as a break in (we say running in) oil, if I couldn't find a official break in oil. Around me, race oils are easier to find.
Break in oil or race oil, I would change it out early (with new filter), about 1k to 2k miles, then switch to a full synthetic (or whatever my regular oil will be).
My local autozone does carry the vr1
Break in oil is high in zinc anti-wear additives. I'm not sure what is locally avaliable to you, but race oils like valvoline VR1 are also high in zinc. If you want to increase your options.
I would use a road suitable, high zinc, mineral race oil as a break in (we say running in) oil, if I couldn't find a official break in oil. Around me, race oils are easier to find.
Break in oil or race oil, I would change it out early (with new filter), about 1k to 2k miles, then switch to a full synthetic (or whatever my regular oil will be).
My local autozone does carry the vr1
You need to tell us if you have a roller cam or flat tappet cam.
Flat tappet you need to go thru the right process to break in the cam or you will wear down a lobe quickly.
Comp cams offer a additive to help with this process.
Roller can installed you do not need to the procedure to break in the cam.
Flat tappet you need to go thru the right process to break in the cam or you will wear down a lobe quickly.
Comp cams offer a additive to help with this process.
Roller can installed you do not need to the procedure to break in the cam.
You need to tell us if you have a roller cam or flat tappet cam.
Flat tappet you need to go thru the right process to break in the cam or you will wear down a lobe quickly.
Comp cams offer a additive to help with this process.
Roller can installed you do not need to the procedure to break in the cam.
Flat tappet you need to go thru the right process to break in the cam or you will wear down a lobe quickly.
Comp cams offer a additive to help with this process.
Roller can installed you do not need to the procedure to break in the cam.
Brad Penn 10w40 or 20w50
The cam and tappet machining on a crate motor and in a new car are the same so I don't get the logic behind the claims from RP. You don't want the cam to wear, so if normal modern oil is bad for wear, it will be bad for wear forever not just at break in. They ought to have a recommendation with the engine. When I replaced one some years ago I used the same oil I planned to use, synthetic. Personally I would use a high grade synthetic and stick to it. IMO.
Brad Penn makes a 30W break in oil
http://www.penngrade1.com/products/High-Performance/Break-In-Oil.aspx
http://www.penngrade1.com/products/High-Performance/Break-In-Oil.aspx
Originally Posted By: eljefino
The assembly lube on your cam is supposed to dissolve and fortify regular oil.
I'd run Rotella 10w30.
Agreed..
At 400 to 500 miles if damage was done no oil will fix it...
Broke my last flat tappet in on 10w30 Rotella, and first change at maybe 75 mi is same... Next one(Ford 5.0 roller) will get some cheap 5W-20, then straight to synthetic... Mainly the first change/filter catches wear particles, after first 50-100 miles isn't a issue...
The assembly lube on your cam is supposed to dissolve and fortify regular oil.
I'd run Rotella 10w30.
Agreed..
At 400 to 500 miles if damage was done no oil will fix it...
Broke my last flat tappet in on 10w30 Rotella, and first change at maybe 75 mi is same... Next one(Ford 5.0 roller) will get some cheap 5W-20, then straight to synthetic... Mainly the first change/filter catches wear particles, after first 50-100 miles isn't a issue...
That motor has already been run... Whatever is done, is done. It either broke-in, or it's about to go sideways.
VR-1 would be my choice for 500 miles, then new filter and HDEO from there on out ...
VR-1 would be my choice for 500 miles, then new filter and HDEO from there on out ...
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