Is there any consensus of the best way to break in a new lawn tractor with a 19 horsepower single cylinder B & S engine? Owners manual gives 50 hour intervals on oil and filter with no recommended initial early drain. They also recommend straight 30 weight oil. I was thinking of changing it the first time around 1 or 2 hours and then going to Amsoil's synthetic small engine oil which is a 10w-30/30 with a very low Noack (4.0 I think). Does that sound good? Also, would you need the change the filter the first time? Does anyone have a recommendation on a filter upgrade from the OEM or is OEM the best and safest way to go at least while it's under warranty?
break in of new Poulan lawn tractor w/ B&S engine
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Sounds like a good plan. I'd consider ordering an hour meter online. I'm a semi mechanic at UPS. The yard shifter trucks that move semi trailers have an hour meter and are PM'd by hours, not miles.
When I broke in my small engines I would run it for roughly 25 hours, drain the oil and stick with straight 30. Unless you are using something in extreme cold I don't see the need. To each their own. My lawn tractor is 20 years old with only yearly straight 30 oil changes. I also change the oil/gas filter yearly as well. Most small engines will last a long time with very simple maintenance. I would be more concerned about keeping the blades sharpened and isn't bent
Hmm. The latest information from B&S says the preferred oil is 5w30 Synthetic followed by 10w30 dino. I run PP 10w30 in my 20 HP B&S twin. I changed the FF at ~ 20 hours with NO filter change and then every year (oil + OEM filter) but, not over 50 hours. Ed
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Briggs says air cooled engines should be broken in by 5-10 hours.
10w30 dino will work in temperate climate but will increase oil consumption greatly. (This should be noted in fine print somewhere.)
Use 5w30 synthetic or SAE30.
Frankly I think synthetic is a waste of money in air cooled engines that require 40-50 hour service.
Been running SAE30 Pennzoil for years in them and never had a problem.
10w30 dino will work in temperate climate but will increase oil consumption greatly. (This should be noted in fine print somewhere.)
Use 5w30 synthetic or SAE30.
Frankly I think synthetic is a waste of money in air cooled engines that require 40-50 hour service.
Been running SAE30 Pennzoil for years in them and never had a problem.
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Originally Posted By: Jasper8146
Is there any consensus of the best way to break in a new lawn tractor with a 19 horsepower single cylinder B & S engine? Owners manual gives 50 hour intervals on oil and filter with no recommended initial early drain. They also recommend straight 30 weight oil. I was thinking of changing it the first time around 1 or 2 hours and then going to Amsoil's synthetic small engine oil which is a 10w-30/30 with a very low Noack (4.0 I think). Does that sound good? Also, would you need the change the filter the first time? Does anyone have a recommendation on a filter upgrade from the OEM or is OEM the best and safest way to go at least while it's under warranty?
Excellent plan.
Is there any consensus of the best way to break in a new lawn tractor with a 19 horsepower single cylinder B & S engine? Owners manual gives 50 hour intervals on oil and filter with no recommended initial early drain. They also recommend straight 30 weight oil. I was thinking of changing it the first time around 1 or 2 hours and then going to Amsoil's synthetic small engine oil which is a 10w-30/30 with a very low Noack (4.0 I think). Does that sound good? Also, would you need the change the filter the first time? Does anyone have a recommendation on a filter upgrade from the OEM or is OEM the best and safest way to go at least while it's under warranty?
Excellent plan.
Run it for 8 hours. Change the oil and filter. Refill with 5/30 or 10/30 syn. I prefer Mobil1 as it is readily available and inexpensive. Change the oil and filter at what ever interval you want. 50 hours is good so is once a year. I change oil at 100 hour intervals on my commercial mowers that run Syn. Keep your air filter clean and that engine will last for years.
Unless they have cheapened the heck out of them these days (as in..China),I have a 1978 16hp twin (aluminum bore as in Vega) with no filter provision and it runs fine and burns zero oil.10w30 dino all its life.The engine that sold me on Briggs & Stratton and none else.
I would run it at least 5-10 hours. I believe most manufacturers of small gas engines consider that a decent initial oil change interval.
Yeah, I wouldn't change a new OPE engine oil/filter any sooner than 5-10hrs. The engine is the least of your worries, but given Poulan is made by Husqvarna, they're a decent low cost machine.
Be sure to set the cutting deck so it doesn't bounce around on the ground and store the machine clean and dry.
Be sure to set the cutting deck so it doesn't bounce around on the ground and store the machine clean and dry.
I changed the factory oil in my briggs single cylinder 21 hp engine at 5 hours and it had the typical grey silvery look. I refilled it with some leftover T6 5w40. Since then I change it every fall and it typically looks dark amber color.
Two years ago I installed an oil temperature gauge on mine and during 90+ degree weather it's common to see the oil run about 240-250 degrees. Maybe I worry too much but I use 0w40 for this reason. Seems to me like a 5/10w30 would thin out too much.
I also ditched the weird / hard to use twist lock drain hose that came installed on mine. In its place I installed a brass tube and elbow with a high temp oil rated ball valve. Oil changes couldn't be easier.
Two years ago I installed an oil temperature gauge on mine and during 90+ degree weather it's common to see the oil run about 240-250 degrees. Maybe I worry too much but I use 0w40 for this reason. Seems to me like a 5/10w30 would thin out too much.
I also ditched the weird / hard to use twist lock drain hose that came installed on mine. In its place I installed a brass tube and elbow with a high temp oil rated ball valve. Oil changes couldn't be easier.
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Originally Posted By: dakota99
I changed the factory oil in my briggs single cylinder 21 hp engine at 5 hours and it had the typical grey silvery look. I refilled it with some leftover T6 5w40. Since then I change it every fall and it typically looks dark amber color.
Two years ago I installed an oil temperature gauge on mine and during 90+ degree weather it's common to see the oil run about 240-250 degrees. Maybe I worry too much but I use 0w40 for this reason. Seems to me like a 5/10w30 would thin out too much.
I also ditched the weird / hard to use twist lock drain hose that came installed on mine. In its place I installed a brass tube and elbow with a high temp oil rated ball valve. Oil changes couldn't be easier.
Briggs says 5w30/10w30 dino is only good for climates below ~85 degrees. 0w40 is overkill when cheap old SAE30 will do the job as well if not better.
I changed the factory oil in my briggs single cylinder 21 hp engine at 5 hours and it had the typical grey silvery look. I refilled it with some leftover T6 5w40. Since then I change it every fall and it typically looks dark amber color.
Two years ago I installed an oil temperature gauge on mine and during 90+ degree weather it's common to see the oil run about 240-250 degrees. Maybe I worry too much but I use 0w40 for this reason. Seems to me like a 5/10w30 would thin out too much.
I also ditched the weird / hard to use twist lock drain hose that came installed on mine. In its place I installed a brass tube and elbow with a high temp oil rated ball valve. Oil changes couldn't be easier.
Briggs says 5w30/10w30 dino is only good for climates below ~85 degrees. 0w40 is overkill when cheap old SAE30 will do the job as well if not better.
I've installed lots of new engines on power equipment throughout the years. What I usually do is run it with a straight 30 or 10w30 cheap dino oil for the first few hours. The oil will only be in there 10 hours or so, and I think synthetic might be a waste for the initial short period of use. After changing it the first time you will see all the sparkly metal flakes in the oil. You can use synthetic after that for longer OCIs.
It is also better to run the engine with a load on it to seat the rings.
It is also better to run the engine with a load on it to seat the rings.
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Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
I've installed lots of new engines on power equipment throughout the years. What I usually do is run it with a straight 30 or 10w30 cheap dino oil for the first few hours. The oil will only be in there 10 hours or so, and I think synthetic might be a waste for the initial short period of use. After changing it the first time you will see all the sparkly metal flakes in the oil. You can use synthetic after that for longer OCIs.
It is also better to run the engine with a load on it to seat the rings.
You can only do longer OCIs with synthetic if you have an oil filter.
Splash systems must be changed by hour regardless of synthetic/dino. The oil doesn't break down but it gets full of particulate.
I've installed lots of new engines on power equipment throughout the years. What I usually do is run it with a straight 30 or 10w30 cheap dino oil for the first few hours. The oil will only be in there 10 hours or so, and I think synthetic might be a waste for the initial short period of use. After changing it the first time you will see all the sparkly metal flakes in the oil. You can use synthetic after that for longer OCIs.
It is also better to run the engine with a load on it to seat the rings.
You can only do longer OCIs with synthetic if you have an oil filter.
Splash systems must be changed by hour regardless of synthetic/dino. The oil doesn't break down but it gets full of particulate.
Originally Posted By: gotnogunk
Great engines, I agree with 5-10 hrs, mine likes 30W or HDEO 15/40 , unless they have changed the filter is the same as on a 1997 Toyota V-6
What?
Great engines, I agree with 5-10 hrs, mine likes 30W or HDEO 15/40 , unless they have changed the filter is the same as on a 1997 Toyota V-6
What?
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
I've installed lots of new engines on power equipment throughout the years. What I usually do is run it with a straight 30 or 10w30 cheap dino oil for the first few hours. The oil will only be in there 10 hours or so, and I think synthetic might be a waste for the initial short period of use. After changing it the first time you will see all the sparkly metal flakes in the oil. You can use synthetic after that for longer OCIs.
It is also better to run the engine with a load on it to seat the rings.
You can only do longer OCIs with synthetic if you have an oil filter.
Splash systems must be changed by hour regardless of synthetic/dino. The oil doesn't break down but it gets full of particulate.
Exactly. I meant that synthetic would be better suited for the longer "normal" OCIs specified by the manufacturer like 50 hours than the initial 10 hour break-in period. It's a waste to use synthetic for 10 hours.
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
I've installed lots of new engines on power equipment throughout the years. What I usually do is run it with a straight 30 or 10w30 cheap dino oil for the first few hours. The oil will only be in there 10 hours or so, and I think synthetic might be a waste for the initial short period of use. After changing it the first time you will see all the sparkly metal flakes in the oil. You can use synthetic after that for longer OCIs.
It is also better to run the engine with a load on it to seat the rings.
You can only do longer OCIs with synthetic if you have an oil filter.
Splash systems must be changed by hour regardless of synthetic/dino. The oil doesn't break down but it gets full of particulate.
Exactly. I meant that synthetic would be better suited for the longer "normal" OCIs specified by the manufacturer like 50 hours than the initial 10 hour break-in period. It's a waste to use synthetic for 10 hours.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: dakota99
I changed the factory oil in my briggs single cylinder 21 hp engine at 5 hours and it had the typical grey silvery look. I refilled it with some leftover T6 5w40. Since then I change it every fall and it typically looks dark amber color.
Two years ago I installed an oil temperature gauge on mine and during 90+ degree weather it's common to see the oil run about 240-250 degrees. Maybe I worry too much but I use 0w40 for this reason. Seems to me like a 5/10w30 would thin out too much
I also ditched the weird / hard to use twist lock drain hose that came installed on mine. In its place I installed a brass tube and elbow with a high temp oil rated ball valve. Oil changes couldn't be easier.
Briggs says 5w30/10w30 dino is only good for climates below ~85 degrees. 0w40 is overkill when cheap old SAE30 will do the job as well if not better.
I disagree. 0w40 full synthetic, especially T6 5w40 will do better than cheap old SAE30.
Originally Posted By: dakota99
I changed the factory oil in my briggs single cylinder 21 hp engine at 5 hours and it had the typical grey silvery look. I refilled it with some leftover T6 5w40. Since then I change it every fall and it typically looks dark amber color.
Two years ago I installed an oil temperature gauge on mine and during 90+ degree weather it's common to see the oil run about 240-250 degrees. Maybe I worry too much but I use 0w40 for this reason. Seems to me like a 5/10w30 would thin out too much
I also ditched the weird / hard to use twist lock drain hose that came installed on mine. In its place I installed a brass tube and elbow with a high temp oil rated ball valve. Oil changes couldn't be easier.
Briggs says 5w30/10w30 dino is only good for climates below ~85 degrees. 0w40 is overkill when cheap old SAE30 will do the job as well if not better.
I disagree. 0w40 full synthetic, especially T6 5w40 will do better than cheap old SAE30.
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