Break-in for new vehicles

Status
Not open for further replies.
http://www.vehicleservicepros.com/press_...-hone-cylinders is the source for the below.

"Jones explained that in the old days, when engine blocks were composed of relatively soft metals (e.g., 150 Brinell hardness), installers could usually rely on piston rings to adjust to cylinder bores by wearing into the bore surfaces after installation. However, this approach is no longer realistic because today’s engine blocks are much harder (e.g., 330 Brinell), while the high-performance rings are considerably softer with lower tension. The combination simply doesn’t permit that kind of “break-in” technique."

I guess the break in game changed with harder blocks and soft lower tension rings.
 
Originally Posted By: Shipo
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
The main objective in initial oil changes on a new vehicle is to facilitate the removal of harmful manufacturing and break-in debris for those interested in long engine life.

Mr. Jim Fitch, founder of Noria Corp. has authored a book "How to select an Oil and Filter for your Car or Truck" The above statement is from page 43. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=How+to+select+an+oil+and+filter+for+your+car+or+truck

Table 13 on this same page Mr. Fitch outlines his RECOMMENDATIONS for the first few oil changes: 1st oil change within 100 miles of taking possession of the vehicle; 2nd oil change 1500 miles after 1st change, 3rd oil change 3K miles after 2nd, 4th and beyond at normal intervals. Go synthetic at 4th change.

I would guess that the stealership would love you for doing this, since, after purchase, THEIR favorite place for your vehicle to be is on the rack in THEIR service dept. You said you were looking for comments; I gave advice from someone I believe to be much more knowledgeable than myself or anyone on this board. Do what you wish. Good luck and congrats on your purchase, hope you're happy in a couple of years.


Is this Jim Fitch character a snake oil salesman? I ask because his advice, while probably reasonable back in say 1950, is utterly ridiculous in this day and age.


Yes, Mr. Fitch is "quite" the snake oil salesman: http://www.noria.com/team/jim-fitch/

His ancient book I referenced was written waaay back in 2003.

Jim Fitch is the CEO and a co-founder of Noria Corporation. He has a wealth of “in the trenches” experience in lubrication, oil analysis, tribology and machinery failure investigations. Over the past two decades, Jim has presented hundreds of courses on these subjects and has published more than 200 technical articles, papers and publications. He serves as a U.S. delegate to the ISO tribology and oil analysis working group, and has been awarded numerous patents. Since 2002, Jim has also been director and board member of the International Council for Machinery Lubrication. Among his specializations are motor oil and Engine Lubrication.

I will make no attempt to defend him or his perspectives with someone too lazy to G-O-O-G-L-E him. You, sir, are the one who is ridiculous not to be willing to heed the advice of those wiser than you. Or spout off having no idea who or what you are criticizing.

I am quite sure his list of published books exceeds your number of years in school, beginning with kindergarten.
 
Last edited:
I don't really spend a lot of time thinking about it. I do change out the factory fill oil between 1000 and 2000 miles and start using the oil I will be primarily using it's entire life. And I drive it like I normally will right out of the gate. I don't "drive it like I stole it" or baby it. If I need to haul something, I do. I don't redline it, as I would never do that normally anyway. I don't wide open throttle slam it, again, as I won't be doing that normally anyway. I just drive it. Has worked very well for my since my first new vehicle... a 1972 Chevy Nova. Gassers, diesels, it hasn't mattered.
 
My parents and I have done NOTHING special with break in over last 40 years and guess what with regular oil changes 5k. Our cars last without major issue 200k+/15yrs.
 
There is no published technical justification for an early changeout of the factory fill, nor for the stepped routine Fitch describes in his article. I don't know where he gets his supposed information from.
 
Honestly sir, I can find no published technical justification for an engine to last past its warranty period. https://www.google.com/search?q=technica...warranty+period

It was stated in my posting that these are Mr. Fitch's RECOMMENDATIONS. Recommendations don't have to be based upon "published technical justifications," but considering his background, education, credentials, and experience, I'd take his RECOMMENDATIONS over anyone else's on this board...You are free to call this a baseless argument from authority, but how many degrees and patents do you hold?

Do as you please...All I was attempting to do was offer what I consider worthwhile advice from a knowledgeable source. I respectfully disagree with you, and you are free to do likewise.

Cheers.
11.gif
 
Last edited:
Well, since everybody's putting in their opinions here, I'll throw in my 2 cents, especially since I just got a new WRX and am in the break-in process right now (~ 250 miles on the car).

Some have said that modern engines don't require any special break-in. I agree with that. Most of the burnishing and polishing of the parts wearing together happens in the first few minutes of operation. So if you have a car that has 1 mile on it, I might not absolutely flog it right away, off the lot. Maybe give it until some arbitrary number of miles - maybe 50 - then start to get on it a little bit.

The most important thing you can do, in my opinion, is to vary speed and gear a lot. Don't get on the highway and drone at one speed for a long time, if you can help it. Crooked backroads are IDEAL for this, in addition to being a helluva lotta fun and assisting you in learning the handling dynamics of your new vehicle.

Heat-cycling is also one of the major things that breaks in a new engine. Heating up and cooling down expands and contracts the metal and maybe brings certain parts into light contact with one another.

Personally, I took my new WRX out to some curvy, hilly backroads and drove it pretty hard, once it had about 80-100 miles on it. I've kissed redline a couple of times, even though the book says not to exceed 4000 RPM until there are 1000 miles on the clock. I haven't held it in the upper reaches of the tachometer for more than a second or 2, but I do think it's important for the engine to see its entire rev range fairly early on.

Also, LOTS of engine braking. This is easier with my WRX since it's a stick.

I think Yamaha, an extremely experienced engine designer and builder (cars, motorcycles, boats, snowmobiles, etc.), showed the most sense in their blurb on engine break-in, in my R1's manual. They say not to exceed a certain portion of the RPM band "for prolonged periods" for the 1st 600 miles, and then they up it to redline, again, "for prolonged periods" from 600-1000 miles. Then you're good to go, all the way to 13,750 RPM (if you can hang on
smile.gif


The key is, Yamaha doesn't forbid using the entire range of the engine. They just leave it up to your common sense - don't hold it at redline for a long time when it's new.

FWIW I changed the FF on my Tacoma at 3000 miles and poured in Mobil 1. That's all the truck's ever had in it and it still uses no oil between changes at 180,000+ miles. I don't remember what I did to break the R1 in - I don't think I babied it. Anyhow, all sportbikes use a little bit of oil. It doesn't use an excessive amount, by any means (Honda did have a pretty major oil burning debacle with the 2008 CBR1000RR).

(P.S. - In case you didn't already know, it's a myth that synthetic oil hampers engine break-in.)
 
When people think about a new vehicle and break in they first think about the motor but forget that there are many other components that are important. Especially the differentials which may require special care in the early miles.
 
For a long, long time, my "break in" regimen has been to drive a new vehicle like I will be driving it for it's entire life. In other words, I don't really follow any break in routine. From my smaller stuff right on up thru my commercial trucks. I have had virtually no issues with engines and components. The only thing I do that might be out of the norm, is that I change engine oil in the first 1000-2000 miles and the drivetrain fluids before 5000 miles.
 
Only speaking about engines.

Engines are test fired on natural gas or propane right after assembly to check for power balance, and relative compression, to weed out the problem children. The power train is tested on a chassis dyno after the vehicle is assembled. It is driven around the factory lot, on and off railcars and transports, driven during the PDI by the tech and makeready dept etc. Not a whole lot of break in left really.

The engineers pretty much have cylinder fit/finish down at this point. The days of requiring thousands of miles of break in driving due to generic iron or even chrome rings are long gone.

Maybe some OEMs have a break in schedule for whatever reason. Follow the manual as it is likely they know something you don't.

Just an opinion, I could be wrong.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
My van saw WOT on the first trip from the dealer. Subsequently it was taken through its RPM range all the way to the red line with some compression braking mixed in. I dumped the FF oil at about 800 miles and there was no sparkles in it. The oil filter had few visible specs when I inspected it, but that was it.
With my Ram when I bought it, I got onto the big highway 5 minutes from the dealer and went full throttle. Did it a couple times after that as well. The oil level hasn't moved in the past couple of changes so I'm guessing it worked.
 
Originally Posted By: punisher
Only speaking about engines.

Engines are test fired on natural gas or propane right after assembly to check for power balance, and relative compression, to weed out the problem children. The power train is tested on a chassis dyno after the vehicle is assembled. It is driven around the factory lot, on and off railcars and transports, driven during the PDI by the tech and makeready dept etc. Not a whole lot of break in left really.

The engineers pretty much have cylinder fit/finish down at this point. The days of requiring thousands of miles of break in driving due to generic iron or even chrome rings are long gone.

Maybe some OEMs have a break in schedule for whatever reason. Follow the manual as it is likely they know something you don't.

Just an opinion, I could be wrong.


Note that many mfgrs do NOT fire the engines at all, nor do they dyno test the finished car. GM for example puts their 3.6 on a fixture that spins it mechanically and reads vacuum, oil pressure and exhaust, etc, for issues.

Almost all cars are driven a bit. My sig car had exactly 1.5 miles on it when delivered due to a road test Chrysler did on every SRT8. Not a single regular 300C is road tested, just certified at the dealership when delivered.

In short, this varies quite a bit by mfgr, no set procedures are in place for all cars.

My 6.1 is a known oil burner yet my particular example has not used any noticeable oil even at road course track days with oil temps at 300 degrees. My break in was quite aggressive, as my manual specifically states that full throttle is beneficial to engine break in!
 
I changed my Mirage's oil plug to a magnetic one & the oil to conventional almost immediately after purchasing it, ran it hard (off and on) for the first 3,000 miles.

I changed the oil at 100 miles, again at 500 miles, 1500 miles, then 3000 miles. I got out alot of glittery debris in the oil and on the magnetic plug even up to the 1500 mile oil change.

Two years later, it's running great, doesn't burn any oil, and I'm averaging 52mpg combined city+highway.
 
WOW, thanks for all the replies. I think I'm going to like this forum. I am going to change oil this weekend. I have always changed oil early. Should I use Pennzoil ultra, royal purple or valvoline synpower? Moly no moly? Sodium? Any other suggestions?

Thanks
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top