Brake Fluid Exchange Order Of Operation

[gapi]

All good stuff. I use a Motive power bleeder, siphon off old reservoir fluid first, and follow OE instructions.
My 2002 Grand Caravan said fronts first, most others rears first. My Dodge Charger wants the rear elevated more than 10 inches! Sheesh!

First timers using Motive bleeders know this. Instructions have you pump it up to 10lbs and and make sure its not dropping to confirm no leaks.
What they don't print is if there is a leak the master cylinder will over fill. So mark the reservoir level with a sharpie before pumping up and keep an eye on it at every opportunity. If it rises beware. It can make a mess. I have seen them overfill and the gauge needle not move but 1/2lb. It may rise a little when 1st pumping up but it should stabilize solid.
A friend of mine reported a mess when he finished he removed the reservoir cap 1st! Crack open the tank first.

For new master cylinder installs even if bench bled, you can slowly stroke the pedal while its bleeding a wheel. But its not necessary otherwise, and only 2 or 3 strokes then let it bleed a couple ounces. I got this from Motive tech support.

I learned a good tid-bit by putting a small kitchen measuring glass at the furthest wheel to see how much fluid is in the line. I did not siphon the old fluid out of the reservoir (it was really dark) so we could see when the old fluid is clean at the glass.
Not even 2oz. on a Extended Cab Silverado. No more buying extra bottles and excessive pedal strokes just to make sure. If it goes clean and the pedal feels good=done. Happy Bleeding?

 

[tblt44]

Farthest wheel first

 

[Marcozi]

If the fluid is pretty rancid, I might even use a turkey baster to remove the crutty fluid in the master cylinder and refill with clean fluid to keep that dirty fluid from traveling through the whole system before it exits.

Brake fluid will also damage paint. What I do when I’m flushing the brake fluid is I place a bunch of paper towels under and around the brake fluid reservoir. Then I take a large plastic bag and cut a small hole in it. That hole is where the reservoir filler neck protrudes.

 

[Dborch41]

On a side note, where you live has the biggest influence on brake fluid life. They say that nature finds a way, well so does water...right into your brake fluid. The most common DOT brake fluids are hygroscopic, and will pull water right out of the air no matter how tightly sealed the system seems to be. The more humid the environment, the more water the fluid will take on, so someone who lives in New Orleans will have to flush their brake system far more frequently than someone from New Mexico.

The simplest way to know when a flush is due, regardless of the weather, is to test the fluid. There are cheap kits widely available that will check for water among other contaminants, taking out all of the guesswork.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Used one of these, after years of mitivac vacuum bleeding, and it was so NICE! Good for ABS, or so I've read.


View attachment 300993

The Motive Bleeder is the only way I was able to get a pedal in C2-C3 Corvette fixed calipers.

 

[bdcardinal]

They are vehicle specific. The FSM for my 2014 Mustang shows RR, LR, RF inner, RF outer, LF inner, LF outer (Brembo calipers). They also want you to cycle the e-brake while bleeding the rear since it is an integrated e-brake rear caliper to move fluid around.

 

[Donald]

Speed Bleeders. I will bet I can flush with Speed Bleeders before you can get the Motiv pressure bleeder setup and attached.

 

[Donald]

They are vehicle specific. The FSM for my 2014 Mustang shows RR, LR, RF inner, RF outer, LF inner, LF outer (Brembo calipers). They also want you to cycle the e-brake while bleeding the rear since it is an integrated e-brake rear caliper to move fluid around.

And what about for cars where steering wheel is on the right?

 

[Donald]

On a side note, where you live has the biggest influence on brake fluid life. They say that nature finds a way, well so does water...right into your brake fluid. The most common DOT brake fluids are hygroscopic, and will pull water right out of the air no matter how tightly sealed the system seems to be. The more humid the environment, the more water the fluid will take on, so someone who lives in New Orleans will have to flush their brake system far more frequently than someone from New Mexico.

The simplest way to know when a flush is due, regardless of the weather, is to test the fluid. There are cheap kits widely available that will check for water among other contaminants, taking out all of the guesswork.

But what fluid to test? Master cylinder will tend to have the freshest fluid as you top it off there. Bleed a caliper and test. But make sure no contaminates get into the fluid you will text.

 

[The Critic]

Speed Bleeders. I will bet I can flush with Speed Bleeders before you can get the Motiv pressure bleeder setup and attached.

Not a chance. You cannot move much volume thru the speed bleeders.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

And what about for cars where steering wheel is on the right?

Then swap.

 

[thescreensavers]

With 4 channel ABS these days the corner order is not really relevant. Each corner gets its own dedicated line. See the routing of your car.

Bleed order is a carry over from older cars that for example shared rear brake line before it T-eed off to a corner.

 

[bdcardinal]

And what about for cars where steering wheel is on the right?

As soon as I get a GT-40 I will let you know.

 

[cos]

Gravity bleeding just takes too long.

As for Honda using the FL, FR, RR, RL sequence, followed (at least with the 10th gen Accords) by having to engage the parking brake five times then re-bleeding the rear calipers - time consuming for sure but much easier with my Motive brake bleeder.