Bleeding Brakes - what's the most effective way?

[metroplex]

the 3 person approach:
one under car to tighten/loosen bleeder screw
one refilling the reservoir
one pumping the pedal

the mity-vac pump

or speed bleeders?

I need an effective way of getting rid of air in the fastest possible way w/ the least amount of manpower.

 

[cousincletus]

No need for the third person. Have one pump the pedal while the other turns the bleeder screw. Check level frequently. Do not pump the pedal with the cap off the reservoir. Fluid will go everywhere. Use only mfg. recommended fluid. Most use DOT 3.

 

[TC]

The two-person approach is probably fastest, but the Mity-vac pump works fine if you're working solo.

 

[par]

Motive Power Bleeder.

I can change my brake fluid in about 15 minutes, single handed. Notice I said 'change' and not just 'bleed' my brakes.

 

[labman]

Unless you are using the handy Mity Vac or something, down once and hold it is friendlier to modern brakee systems than pumping. Be sure to coat the bleed screws with silicone grease before starting. Otherwise they can stick and break off rather than come out next time.

If they are already stuck, see http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=000 rather than break them off.

 

[9c1]

Labman,
My browser says "no such number exists" Wasup?
Terry

 

[labman]

I failed to copy the whole thing. Try http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=000035#000000

Nice to know somebody read my post.

 

[9c1]

Thank you for fixing the link. Interesting options for removal of rusted parts.
Terry

 

[porterdog]

My vote goes to speedbleeders. On my Miata I can do the brakes without even jacking the car up; wish I'd got one for the clutch slave.

 

[cangreylegend]

Don't forget every vehicle has a best sequence of which wheels are first, second, third and fourth. It varies.

 

[labman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by cangreylegend:
Don't forget every vehicle has a best sequence of which wheels are first, second, third and fourth. It varies.

---

Good point. I don't understand why, but they do. When we rebuilt the calipers on the Grand Am, and I checked the shop manual before bleeding them, my teenage son said, "Come on Dad, you have done this before, you know how". I said, "Not this car".

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

I read somewhere that its a good idea to put a short 2X4 on the floor so when you are pumping the pedal it does not go all the way to the floor,causing the master cylinder piston not to bottom out.Anyone else heard of this tip?

 

[labman]

Excursions into seldom visited territory may not be good for older master cylinder cups and power brake units. You 2'' X 4'' may slow the job down, but prevent additional problems.

[ December 19, 2003, 09:14 AM: Message edited by: labman ]

 

[shortyb]

I've done all three methods, settled on the Speedbleeders. By far the easiest and quickest for me. I tried my friend's Motive Power Bleeder but my resevoir is odd shaped and was kind of a pain to set-up. That caused some minor fluid leaking too. As was mentioned, best to avoid bottoming the pedal.

 

[cryptokid]

you can let gravity do your dirty work if you like.

put a hose on the bleeder, and crack it open. assuming the bleeder is lower than the resivor, gravity will change it out.

if not, then drill a hole in your resivor cap and install a valve stem off a wheel. pressureise a couple psi to overcome grativy.

 

[metroplex]

The gravity method may allow more moisture to get into the system.

 

[Kompressor]

I am really happy with the Mity-Vac, works great for me. The sequence I use is start at the brake with the longest line, then to the 2nd longest and so forth. I also think pushing the master cylinder piston past its normal operating range can cause damage. Anyone have more info on this "speedbleeder" dealio?

 

[labman]

The Mity-Vac can be a good deal for most people. I have made do by having my wife or kids pump the pedal. Most wives will tolerate that sort of thing occasionally. At least enough for necessary work. Do not ask them to crawl under the car and do the bleeding.

The speed bleeders have a large reservoir of brake fluid in an air tight container. There is a hose from the bottom to a selection of adapters that fits older master cylinders, but not the one on your car. You manage to hook it up anyways, and pressurize the container with compressed air. Then you can go around to each bleed screw, and open it until decent looking brake fluid is coming out air free, and close it. If you are planning on still having the car the next time it needs brake work, remove, clean up, and coat all the bleed screws with silicone grease before you start. They work great, but are a bit of aa pain to set up. They also take a lot of fluid to fill, exposing it to air and moisture. If you are not using it every day, you either end up using old fluid, or throwing a bunch away.

 

[shortyb]

quote:

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Originally posted by Kompressor:
Anyone have more info on this "speedbleeder" dealio?

---

Try here www.speedbleeder.com

If your looking for the power bleeder, then try here www.motiveproducts.com

 

[labman]

Sorry, I confused the Speedbleeders with the power bleeders. I still think the old 2 person way or the vacuum pump is the best idea for those that work on their own brakes when needed. The power bleeders only make sense for somebody maintaining a number of vehicles. Not impressed with the Speedbleeders. They may be OK for somebody that is continually messing around for lack of useful ways to occupy their time.