I don't know WHICH Ecoboost you have. They got better as the years dragged on. Maybe Ford was tired of the complaints and finally started making them better.
Best oil for new 2025 2.0L ecoboost?
- Thread starter winterbourne
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The newest versions of the I4 Ecoboosts are very solid. Chain timing, gear driven oil pump. Also dual injection. Took them a while but they are a good engine now.
I towed over 6500# with the 'little' 2.3 Ecoboost and it ran like a champion. No overheating even in the dead of summer, drug that trailer around like a V8. Ohh and got 22-25 mpg when not loaded, in a truck. You can't ask for much more out of an engine.
And the non/keyed gears. I don't have first hand knowledge, but from my understanding there are simply two tools, one you spin into the crankcase and one that holds the cams, and the engine is 100% in time. I agree that it is slightly dumb, but it isn't out of reach of the home gamer to pull one apart and put back together.
As for the 3.5, Hope they fixed those problems since I would like to keep mine a while.
Don't take this as me defending Ford, or any manufacturer. They all build plenty of junk these days. But most of those specific concerns are long gone.
I do wish they would go to a chain/gear drive on the 2.7 oil pump though.
Ohh, as for oil for the OP.
Synthetic in a 5W30 changed every 5k and it should live a good long life. My Ranger lived on Havoline Lifelong 5W30, but I've since switched everything in the barn over to Valvoline R&P in the same weight. I just like to keep things simple.
I towed over 6500# with the 'little' 2.3 Ecoboost and it ran like a champion. No overheating even in the dead of summer, drug that trailer around like a V8. Ohh and got 22-25 mpg when not loaded, in a truck. You can't ask for much more out of an engine.
And the non/keyed gears. I don't have first hand knowledge, but from my understanding there are simply two tools, one you spin into the crankcase and one that holds the cams, and the engine is 100% in time. I agree that it is slightly dumb, but it isn't out of reach of the home gamer to pull one apart and put back together.
As for the 3.5, Hope they fixed those problems since I would like to keep mine a while.
Don't take this as me defending Ford, or any manufacturer. They all build plenty of junk these days. But most of those specific concerns are long gone.
I do wish they would go to a chain/gear drive on the 2.7 oil pump though.
Ohh, as for oil for the OP.
Synthetic in a 5W30 changed every 5k and it should live a good long life. My Ranger lived on Havoline Lifelong 5W30, but I've since switched everything in the barn over to Valvoline R&P in the same weight. I just like to keep things simple.
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Glad to hear the Ecoboost has gotten much better. Best of luck to all with the newer versions 
Still a FORD maybe 1 out of 99 are serviceable. Throw in RAM also. Heck through them all in!
Yeah, bosch, oem mann filter, mahle/knecht or purolator boss
Picked up a bunch of Mahle's for my Honda 13' CRV K24 engine. Been on the shelf so long I forgot where I bought them. But, they were on sale, either Scamazon , Fleabay, or Walmart. But they were on sale in a 12 pack. Hecho en China, plastic sealed over the regular gasket., no " leak tested" markings on it........ Are these knock offs ???? I looked down inside, they seem to be well made. Comments anybody ????? Would be appreciated
Am I the only one who sees the OP says he has a 2015 Edge with a 1.5L, and replaced the engine with a 2025 2.0L? Did the mechanic change the radiator if there are different parts? Fans? Did they change the ECU and wiring harness?
No way should a brand new engine overheating be treated as “normal”.
No way should a brand new engine overheating be treated as “normal”.
Make your own thread.Picked up a bunch of Mahle's for my Honda 13' CRV K24 engine. Been on the shelf so long I forgot where I bought them. But, they were on sale, either Scamazon , Fleabay, or Walmart. But they were on sale in a 12 pack. Hecho en China, plastic sealed over the regular gasket., no " leak tested" markings on it........ Are these knock offs ???? I looked down inside, they seem to be well made. Comments anybody ????? Would be appreciated
Ok, noob/newb mistake...sorry ... Thanks for letting me know Subie
I'm not seeing mention of a 1.5? Didn't they only come with 2.0, 2.7 or 3.5 (non eco)?
Totally agree either way, not a normal characteristic!
Wet belt
Yes, you are the only one who sees that
NHTSA via CARCOMPLAINTS summary
Ford and Lincoln owners reported the 2.7 EcoBoost engines failed, with most failures occurring as the vehicles were in motion
Investigators determined the intake valves could fracture in the 2.7-liter EcoBoost engines and cause complete engine failures. Ford said this required complete replacements of the engines.
"Ford advised ODI that the defective valves were manufactured out of a specific alloy known as “Silchrome Lite”, which can become excessively hard and brittle if an over-temperature condition occurs during machining of the component. A design modification was implemented in October 2021, which changed the intake valve material to a different alloy known as “Silchrome 1”, that is less susceptible to over-temperature during machine grinding." — NHTSA
The Ford 2.7 EcoBoost engine failure investigation has been upgraded to an engineering analysis and expanded to include 3.0L EcoBoost engines.
More than 708,000 Ford and Lincoln vehicles are involved.
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I guess I got lucky. My my 2016 F150 went to 186k before I traded it for a Maverick.
For example Xterra 2011/ navara d40 received a duplex timing chain because the original chain was weak (for heavy duty use). Many timing chains have broken because of design faults and also because many owners think that a timing chain is maintenance-free.
As already stated, any good 5w-30 will work. I've run Amsoil SS, M1, PUP, Castrol & HPL through my wife's 2013 Fusion 2.0 ecoboost (mostly on Amsoil SS). She has just under 200k miles currently, severe service short tripped frequently & the engine runs great. UOA's show very little wear.
The overheating issue is something different. We've taken her Fusion through very steep grades around Shasta as well as near Tahoe and very low speed grades on the Central Coast. The only time its ever had any type of cooling issue was when the thermostat for the transmission cooler failed closed. Had high transmission temps (I secretly thank the Amsoil SS transmission fluid for holding up to that as I drove another 150-175mi on that failed thermostat). Yours is likely air in the system or a bad thermostat or fan. Hopefully your mechanic replaced the water pump with the engine swap & didn't reuse the old one. I'd be FAR more concerned with the overheating issue than any of your listed oil choices.
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