This morning is the coldest it has been here yet this winter,24*! My truck is Dark Blue Metallic but this morning it was white,due to so much frost and ice on it! Upon startup my engine was as quiet as a church mouse.
Best filter for preventing start up rattle???
- Thread starter KCJeep
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Buy an oil or coolant heater and plug it in one hour before leaving. Bye-bye rattle (or at least most of it).
Update for me too: Nearly 1700 miles later and the coldest weather of the year so far and still not one clatter, not once, since the Motorcraft FL-400S was spun on.
I'm sold.
I'm sold.
If you guys want to hear "rattle" fly on an airplane sometime. The engines sound okay but I swear when they put the flaps or speedbrakes down, they sound like they are on the verge of failure. Someone should oil them.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Most engine wear occurs at startup so this would lead me to believe the early demise of an engine.[/b]
You heard this on a Slick50 ad? Well then it's not true (Slick50 is a scam artist oil).
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Most engine wear occurs at startup so this would lead me to believe the early demise of an engine.[/b]
You heard this on a Slick50 ad? Well then it's not true (Slick50 is a scam artist oil).
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Originally Posted By: theaveng
If you guys want to hear "rattle" fly on an airplane sometime. The engines sound okay but I swear when they put the flaps or speedbrakes down, they sound like they are on the verge of failure. Someone should oil them.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Most engine wear occurs at startup so this would lead me to believe the early demise of an engine.[/b]
You heard this on a Slick50 ad? Well then it's not true (Slick50 is a scam artist oil).
No,I know this from my years of building and re-building engines. BTW,do you have a personal vendetta against me? This is the 2nd post you've called me out on,about a subject,today! Did I do something to you to make you feel this way?
If you guys want to hear "rattle" fly on an airplane sometime. The engines sound okay but I swear when they put the flaps or speedbrakes down, they sound like they are on the verge of failure. Someone should oil them.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Most engine wear occurs at startup so this would lead me to believe the early demise of an engine.[/b]
You heard this on a Slick50 ad? Well then it's not true (Slick50 is a scam artist oil).
No,I know this from my years of building and re-building engines. BTW,do you have a personal vendetta against me? This is the 2nd post you've called me out on,about a subject,today! Did I do something to you to make you feel this way?
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
BTW,do you have a personal vendetta against me?
I don't read posters' names. It was just coincidence. I'm just curious how you know starting an engine is what caused most of the wear (instead of, say, lots of redlining).
BTW,do you have a personal vendetta against me?
I don't read posters' names. It was just coincidence. I'm just curious how you know starting an engine is what caused most of the wear (instead of, say, lots of redlining).
Originally Posted By: theaveng
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
BTW,do you have a personal vendetta against me?
I don't read posters' names. It was just coincidence. I'm just curious how you know starting an engine is what caused most of the wear (instead of, say, lots of redlining).
Oil companies spend/have spent millions of dollars on oil testing.Do you think they just put those XWXX,XXWXX numbers on bottles just because they can? And i'm sure car makers do the same.Or,they all might have seen that SLICK 50 info-mmercial too!
Also,when I broke a cam in the first 20 minutes then drained the oil there was A LOT of glistening particles in the oil. I don't think it was Pixie Dust left by the Engine Fairies. It would also lead me to believe this occurs on a much smaller basis when an engine starts up with no or very little oil on the moving parts.
Do you have a theory on this? I would love to hear it!
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
BTW,do you have a personal vendetta against me?
I don't read posters' names. It was just coincidence. I'm just curious how you know starting an engine is what caused most of the wear (instead of, say, lots of redlining).
Oil companies spend/have spent millions of dollars on oil testing.Do you think they just put those XWXX,XXWXX numbers on bottles just because they can? And i'm sure car makers do the same.Or,they all might have seen that SLICK 50 info-mmercial too!
Also,when I broke a cam in the first 20 minutes then drained the oil there was A LOT of glistening particles in the oil. I don't think it was Pixie Dust left by the Engine Fairies. It would also lead me to believe this occurs on a much smaller basis when an engine starts up with no or very little oil on the moving parts.
Do you have a theory on this? I would love to hear it!
Didn't really answer my question.
I read an article from an automotive engineer that Slick50's "most engine wear happens when started" advertising was ridiculous. He said the oil still remains between the parts and protects them during startup.
I read an article from an automotive engineer that Slick50's "most engine wear happens when started" advertising was ridiculous. He said the oil still remains between the parts and protects them during startup.
Originally Posted By: theaveng
Didn't really answer my question.
I read an article from an automotive engineer that Slick50's "most engine wear happens when started" advertising was ridiculous. He said the oil still remains between the parts and protects them during startup.
Which article and engineer was this?
Didn't really answer my question.
I read an article from an automotive engineer that Slick50's "most engine wear happens when started" advertising was ridiculous. He said the oil still remains between the parts and protects them during startup.
Which article and engineer was this?
Oh you know, just the expert testimony against Slick50 a decade ago. The court forced them to stop making false claims. YOUR TURN. Where did you get that "most wear happens during engine startup" nonsense? Citation please, else I'll just recommend everyone reject it.
Originally Posted By: theaveng
Oh you know, just the expert testimony against Slick50 a decade ago. The court forced them to stop making false claims. YOUR TURN. Where did you get that "most wear happens during engine startup" nonsense? Citation please, else I'll just recommend everyone reject it.
Read ANY oil manufacturers findings on oil research and how it works in engines to maintain lubrication status,be it startup,idling,redlining (as you stated earlier). Or,how about CAFE? Auto manufacturers? Your turn!
Oh you know, just the expert testimony against Slick50 a decade ago. The court forced them to stop making false claims. YOUR TURN. Where did you get that "most wear happens during engine startup" nonsense? Citation please, else I'll just recommend everyone reject it.
Read ANY oil manufacturers findings on oil research and how it works in engines to maintain lubrication status,be it startup,idling,redlining (as you stated earlier). Or,how about CAFE? Auto manufacturers? Your turn!
Engines run a pressurized oil system. When started for some moments in time there are parts that are supposed to have a pressurized oil film that are not getting any.
So it stands to reason that any wear because of lack of oil film would be at startup.
Redlining a engine would cause wear because oil film cannot keep up with engine needs at that RPM, hence high volume/pressure oil pumps, windage trays, direct feed oil lines to specific parts of engine.
Just my thoughts.
So it stands to reason that any wear because of lack of oil film would be at startup.
Redlining a engine would cause wear because oil film cannot keep up with engine needs at that RPM, hence high volume/pressure oil pumps, windage trays, direct feed oil lines to specific parts of engine.
Just my thoughts.
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Engines run a pressurized oil system. When started for some moments in time there are parts that are supposed to have a pressurized oil film that are not getting any.
So it stands to reason that any wear because of lack of oil film would be at startup.
Redlining a engine would cause wear because oil film cannot keep up with engine needs at that RPM, hence high volume/pressure oil pumps, windage trays, direct feed oil lines to specific parts of engine.
Just my thoughts.
Engines run a pressurized oil system. When started for some moments in time there are parts that are supposed to have a pressurized oil film that are not getting any.
So it stands to reason that any wear because of lack of oil film would be at startup.
Redlining a engine would cause wear because oil film cannot keep up with engine needs at that RPM, hence high volume/pressure oil pumps, windage trays, direct feed oil lines to specific parts of engine.
Just my thoughts.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Read ANY oil manufacturers findings on oil research and how it works in engines to maintain lubrication status,be it startup,idling,redlining
I've not seen any research that "most engine wear happens at startup". Please show it to me. And as an aside: If OldHP is correct then I must be killing my hybrid engine, because it restarts 40-50 times a day. There's no moving/pressurized oil to protect the parts.
Read ANY oil manufacturers findings on oil research and how it works in engines to maintain lubrication status,be it startup,idling,redlining
I've not seen any research that "most engine wear happens at startup". Please show it to me. And as an aside: If OldHP is correct then I must be killing my hybrid engine, because it restarts 40-50 times a day. There's no moving/pressurized oil to protect the parts.
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Originally Posted By: theaveng
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Read ANY oil manufacturers findings on oil research and how it works in engines to maintain lubrication status,be it startup,idling,redlining
I've not seen any research that "most engine wear happens at startup". Please show it to me. And as an aside: If OldHP is correct then I must be killing my hybrid engine, it restarts 40-50 times a day. There's no moving oil to protect the parts.
GOOGLE.It's a fantastic tool!
Stop killing your engine and use SLICK 50,the product you are so fond of!
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Read ANY oil manufacturers findings on oil research and how it works in engines to maintain lubrication status,be it startup,idling,redlining
I've not seen any research that "most engine wear happens at startup". Please show it to me. And as an aside: If OldHP is correct then I must be killing my hybrid engine, it restarts 40-50 times a day. There's no moving oil to protect the parts.
GOOGLE.It's a fantastic tool!
Stop killing your engine and use SLICK 50,the product you are so fond of!
Originally Posted By: theaveng
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Read ANY oil manufacturers findings on oil research and how it works in engines to maintain lubrication status,be it startup,idling,redlining
I've not seen any research that "most engine wear happens at startup". Please show it to me. And as an aside: If OldHP is correct then I must be killing my hybrid engine, because it restarts 40-50 times a day. There's no moving/pressurized oil to protect the parts.
http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/oil.html
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Mobil_1_Cold_Starts.aspx
http://www.isnare.com/?aid=755087&ca=Automotive
Here are a few to start with.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Read ANY oil manufacturers findings on oil research and how it works in engines to maintain lubrication status,be it startup,idling,redlining
I've not seen any research that "most engine wear happens at startup". Please show it to me. And as an aside: If OldHP is correct then I must be killing my hybrid engine, because it restarts 40-50 times a day. There's no moving/pressurized oil to protect the parts.
http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/oil.html
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Mobil_1_Cold_Starts.aspx
http://www.isnare.com/?aid=755087&ca=Automotive
Here are a few to start with.
theaveng, Maybe you are, maybe your not. I would say it depends on your engine's design. Shutting a engine off for a brief moment and restarting would cause far less wear than if engine had sat all night.
Whats your opinion on how a engine wears. Because they do wear.
Unless you don't shut them off or use a engine preoiler......
Whats your opinion on how a engine wears. Because they do wear.
Unless you don't shut them off or use a engine preoiler......
And how many posts and threads do we have on here about COLD start up noise (including this one) from a host of manufacturers? It's lack of lubrication, that's why in even the worst cases it usually quiets down in a minute or two.
Lack of lubrication is not good, that's why we use oil in the first place, and why BITOG is saturated with "lighter at start up", "high VI" and countless similar posts.
Lack of lubrication is not good, that's why we use oil in the first place, and why BITOG is saturated with "lighter at start up", "high VI" and countless similar posts.
KCJeep, You said PO neglected the engine. Have you tried running some trans fluid or Risole thur it? Your problem almost sounds like a piece of crud in lifter or some of the lifters.
I would get some cardboard to cover radiator and with the biggest new filter you can put on put some 0W30 and two quarts trans fluid or Seafoam/Rislone. Let it idle for at least 30 mins with as hot as you can get it without boiling over, then let it drain until it stops dripping.
New filter, new 0W30 oil, SeaFoam/Rislone run it 1000 miles, drain out. Then new filter & oil of your choice and see.
There's quite possibly stuff in engine that short of taking apart you need some drastic hot cleaning to clean it.
Wouldn't cost that much and you might be surprised what comes out.
My thoughts........
I would get some cardboard to cover radiator and with the biggest new filter you can put on put some 0W30 and two quarts trans fluid or Seafoam/Rislone. Let it idle for at least 30 mins with as hot as you can get it without boiling over, then let it drain until it stops dripping.
New filter, new 0W30 oil, SeaFoam/Rislone run it 1000 miles, drain out. Then new filter & oil of your choice and see.
There's quite possibly stuff in engine that short of taking apart you need some drastic hot cleaning to clean it.
Wouldn't cost that much and you might be surprised what comes out.
My thoughts........
Originally Posted By: oldhp
KCJeep, You said PO neglected the engine. Have you tried running some trans fluid or Risole thur it? Your problem almost sounds like a piece of crud in lifter or some of the lifters.
I would get some cardboard to cover radiator and with the biggest new filter you can put on put some 0W30 and two quarts trans fluid or Seafoam/Rislone. Let it idle for at least 30 mins with as hot as you can get it without boiling over, then let it drain until it stops dripping.
New filter, new 0W30 oil, SeaFoam/Rislone run it 1000 miles, drain out. Then new filter & oil of your choice and see.
There's quite possibly stuff in engine that short of taking apart you need some drastic hot cleaning to clean it.
Wouldn't cost that much and you might be surprised what comes out.
My thoughts........
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm not anti-additive or flush by any means but I'm also not wanting to get overly aggressive and knock something loose that's going to cause problems. I've done multiple short OCI's with high detergent oils, also used MMO in it but nothing aggressive yet.
It runs so well I don't want to mess it up fixing a non-problem kind of problem. Been thinking about Kreen in it too.
KCJeep, You said PO neglected the engine. Have you tried running some trans fluid or Risole thur it? Your problem almost sounds like a piece of crud in lifter or some of the lifters.
I would get some cardboard to cover radiator and with the biggest new filter you can put on put some 0W30 and two quarts trans fluid or Seafoam/Rislone. Let it idle for at least 30 mins with as hot as you can get it without boiling over, then let it drain until it stops dripping.
New filter, new 0W30 oil, SeaFoam/Rislone run it 1000 miles, drain out. Then new filter & oil of your choice and see.
There's quite possibly stuff in engine that short of taking apart you need some drastic hot cleaning to clean it.
Wouldn't cost that much and you might be surprised what comes out.
My thoughts........
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm not anti-additive or flush by any means but I'm also not wanting to get overly aggressive and knock something loose that's going to cause problems. I've done multiple short OCI's with high detergent oils, also used MMO in it but nothing aggressive yet.
It runs so well I don't want to mess it up fixing a non-problem kind of problem. Been thinking about Kreen in it too.
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