Best API Grp IV+ Synthetic Oil for a '13 Jeep 3.6L

[rraiderr]

I ran the Amsoil 5W-20 XL in my 2010 Jeep with the Hemi.

Towed fully loaded trailer cross country in crazy heat and cold and the UOA's on the XL showed it was still going strong at 7500 mile interval.

My dealer was a stickler that I ran 5W-20 due to the MDS and almost did not honor a warranty claim if I had not been running it.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Royal Purple API SN


That's one I can think of. Even those European oils one could import from Germany that are labelled as fully synthetic don't tend to be SN/GF-5.

 

[crazyoildude]

use whats listed in the book or on the cap those engines are not the best and there are more warranty claims against them then most according to many in the field.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: GoHack
Thanks everyone for your input.

I guess I'll go w/the Mobil 1 then, since it's easy to get.

I take care of my vehicles. Always have. We obviously ALL do here, otherwise we wouldn't be here on the "Bob is the Oil Guy" forum, to find out what is the best? I change my engine oil/filter at least every 5K, and like to use the best products available on the market.

By the way, if you think 0W-20 is a light oil, I've heard that the US oil/auto industry are looking at an even lighter oil, like 0W-10.

Question, why are Europeans using heavier oils in their automobiles vs. what we use here in the US, even w/the exact same vehicles/engines? I would think that the Europeans would be just as interested in getting better gasoline mileage as we here in the US are

.


This topic has been beaten to death in this forum.
The euro oem's tend to spec longer oil change intervals,so the thicker oil,over the longer oil change interval may shear to a thinner oil by the time the interval is up. In north America we tend to spec shorter intervals,and once you factor in shear the end result would be close to the 20 grades the oem's spec here.
There is a huge debate on this subject here but that's my take on it.
And in NA we have corporate average fuel economy (cafe). And oem's get carbon credits for the EPA's fuel economy ratings. So the less average fuel an oem's line of cars consume,the less the oem has to pay in carbon tax. And 20 grade oils will lower fuel consumption by a very small percentage however that percentage averaged over millions of cars end up being big bucks.
I was a thicker is better guy however the market is proving that 20 grades don't affect longevity for 99% of NA drivers,so here it works. However I wouldn't drive a car on the autobahn with a 20 grade oil at wot for hours on end

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: GoHack
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Royal Purple API SN
Amsoil XL( I think it is Grp IV or at least some - ask Pablo ).

Both will meet your warranty requirements.


Amsoil XL is group 3 and would be a good choice for the new Jeep

Eh,nm looks like you already made your choice.


Amsoil is pain to get. Yes NAPA stores carry it, but I believe they only carry 5w30 Signature Series.
.


Amsoil is very easy to get. Where in WA state?

 

[GoHack]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: GoHack
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Royal Purple API SN
Amsoil XL( I think it is Grp IV or at least some - ask Pablo ).

Both will meet your warranty requirements.


Amsoil XL is group 3 and would be a good choice for the new Jeep

Eh,nm looks like you already made your choice.


Amsoil is pain to get. Yes NAPA stores carry it, but I believe they only carry 5w30 Signature Series.
.


Amsoil is very easy to get. Where in WA state?


I can find it, but the only place that I know who has a selection of Amsoil Products is in Auburn. I live in Bothell, so it's a ride. The NAPA stores suppositely can order other weight oils and such, but it nice to just walk in and be able to buy on the spot, rather than having to order it.


.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: GoHack


I can find it, but the only place that I know who has a selection of Amsoil Products is in Auburn. I live in Bothell, so it's a ride. The NAPA stores suppositely can order other weight oils and such, but it nice to just walk in and be able to buy on the spot, rather than having to order it.



I'm not that far from you in Duvall (way closer than Auburn). I work in Redmond. Heck, we could meet at the McClendons or Home Depot or wherever you like. My direct prices are lower than NAPA anyway.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: rraiderr
I ran the Amsoil 5W-20 XL in my 2010 Jeep with the Hemi.

Towed fully loaded trailer cross country in crazy heat and cold and the UOA's on the XL showed it was still going strong at 7500 mile interval.

My dealer was a stickler that I ran 5W-20 due to the MDS and almost did not honor a warranty claim if I had not been running it.




Really? Pretty sticky dealer.
Anyways the hemi has what's got me swaying to the thin side now. Mine in particular. It's high mile yet I have no ticks or unusual noises and the engine runs very strong with no noticeable consumption thus far. I'm running pp 5w-20 and even those -28c mornings the engine had no laboured starting sounds.
The truck has had 5w-20 all it's life from 05 and service records indicate 5000km intervals,so obviously the thin oil has done exactly what it's supposed to do....protect the engine.
I've still got countless gallons of 0w-40 and 5w-40 euro in my basement so I will ha e to use it up,but my days of going a grade thicker may be over.
Many of our members from across the pond believe that us North Americans are getting shafted in the oem' oil spec department,so I've asked for data showing that vehicles in Europe last more miles than the same vehicles here. I doubt very much any such data exists.
As has been said countless times here at bitog the bodies dissolve before the engines fail

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Many of our members from across the pond believe that us North Americans are getting shafted in the oem' oil spec department,so I've asked for data showing that vehicles in Europe last more miles than the same vehicles here. I doubt very much any such data exists.
As has been said countless times here at bitog the bodies dissolve before the engines fail


I agree with what you're saying, but there's also another side of it. They'll also say that us North Americans change oil way too often, draining our pockets and generating a lot of waste product. Their philosophy seems to be to specify a fairly robust oil and run it for 15,000 miles.

Both approaches seem to work just fine in terms of engine longevity. I do agree, however, that we change our oil too often. I'm as guilty of that as anyone else. I simply *like* changing oil, so I don't tend to use very expensive oil or get all of the life out of it. When it comes to oil, I *am* a wasteful creature.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Forget "real" synthetic nonsense. Of course if you want to spend $10+/qt for no real improvement, be my guest.

Id put PU 5w-20 in there and be done.

Yes and he will be getting a "real synthetic" 100% GTL/PAO in the bargain.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: GoHack

Question, why are Europeans using heavier oils in their automobiles vs. what we use here in the US, even w/the exact same vehicles/engines? I would think that the Europeans would be just as interested in getting better gasoline mileage as we here in the US are.

.

No they are not interested in squeezing every last kilometer out of every liter of fuel as much as they are concerned with protecting the engine long term.
Cars generally cost a lot more in Europe and are not considered disposable items. They are treated like they are your second biggest investment after your home and treated as such.

Any more on this subject will just lead to another thin vs thick war with all the usual combatants.

 

[demarpaint]

I'd run either Mobil 1 or PU in it and call it a day. I'd also stick with 5W20. With all the problems Jeep had with that engine the last thing you want to do is give them an out if you have an oil related issue. I've been following the Wrangler 3.6L since it first rolled off the line, and passed on model year 2012 because of the "Pentastar Tick". IIRC they are up to the third cylinder head revision and it seems to be working well. IMO its a good engine that went through some teething pains. As far as the oil viscosity goes the 2012's called for 5W30 the 2013's 5W20. Considering the engine is in about 80% of Chrysler's line up the move was all CAFE IMO. They probably waited a year and did some additional testing to be sure a 20 grade oil would work in it. The viscosity change had nothing to do with the head problems. The problem head was caused from water jackets being too small in the head which weren't providing ample cooling to the head, that ruined the valve guides. The redesigned head has more coolant flow, and they beefed up the guides and made some other tweaks. BTW not all 2012's have a problem.


I"m with you, I wouldn't be comfortable with a 5W20 in that engine either. Time to hide and get the flame suit on.

I'm not looking for a thick vs. thin war, just stating my POV and we seem to agree!

Great ride BTW, drive it in good health!!!!

 

[BillyTheKid]

I have a 2012 Cherokee with the pentistar and it calls for 5-30 in the manual and on the oil cap. I was not notified of any service updates of running the thinner oil? My engine still runs very quiet at 10k miles on 5-30.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: BillyTheKid
I have a 2012 Cherokee with the pentistar and it calls for 5-30 in the manual and on the oil cap. I was not notified of any service updates of running the thinner oil? My engine still runs very quiet at 10k miles on 5-30.


Stick with 5W30. AFAIK they didn't back spec the 2012 to 5W20.

 

[GoHack]

Thanks for everyone's input.

With close to 1000 miles on my 3.6L Pentistar engine, I'm having just the oil filter replaced tomorrow. The oil is still clean, so I'm keeping that in it for a while longer.

Reason for the filter change, there's obviously going to be metal particles from the engine break-in, as well as possible left over material from the engine manufacturing process. Then there's the fact that the filter on the Pentistar engine is easy to change, as well as being an open cartridge, where I can see what the filter has collected.

What is the considered the break-in of the 3.6L Pentistar engine, 5K miles?

I was thinking of switching over to synthetic oil at 5K miles.

Isn't it funny, we started out w/drop in cartridge, or replaceable element oil filters, then switched over to spin-on, and here we are now switching back to the cartridge again.


.

 

[zoinks]

I have a 2013 Jeep GC with the Pentastar. I changed the factory fill at 1k with PYB 5W20. There were definitely metal bits visible in the filter. I'll probably switch to synthetic in the spring and then go by the oil life monitor.

Probably not a big deal, but if you're going to change the filter you might as well change the oil...just my opinion.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: zoinks

Probably not a big deal, but if you're going to change the filter you might as well change the oil...just my opinion.


Same thoughts here. Not all the break in materials will be in the filter anyway.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Gohack, most modern engines require at least 10k miles to stop shedding assembly lubes and develop maximum power levels.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: zoinks


Probably not a big deal, but if you're going to change the filter you might as well change the oil...just my opinion.


+1 If you going to change the filter, change the oil too. JMO

 

[GoHack]

Well I ended up replacing both the oil and filter today. Looking at the replaced oil filter, it was very clean.

The oil/filter change turned out not to cost me anything, since the first oil change is free.

I'm told that they don't use break in oil on these new Pentastar engines.

.