Bent valve on 1996 Honda Accord

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Maybe apples and orange, DIL's 99 CRV burnt #4 exhaust valve. It tripped the check engine light and flunked inspection. They were broke and needed a car. I loaned them one of mine and got to work. I pulled the head, and lapped in 2 new exhaust valves, The other 3 cylinder's were fine.

The little 16v twin cam engine is a beautiful design. But a total PITA to do a head job with the engine in the car. My tip is to remove the head with the manifolds on for easier R+R. Long story short, the job was difficult, but the CRV has been going for 75k miles.
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Originally Posted By: rjundi
I'd pay $900 for the working version of the car.

That is nuts for something broken and 216k miles and you need to further fix. Also there may be more damage than bent valve(s).

This old horse needs to be walked to its hole shot and buried.


Yep.

The other factor is this car is being purchased for a new driver (the OP's son) so I would want a vehicle that was a bit lower in mileage and had been better maintained to being with.

Agreed with the others folks here.

RUN, DON'T WANT AWAY FROM THIS TURD.
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell

The other factor is this car is being purchased for a new driver (the OP's son) so I would want a vehicle that was a bit lower in mileage and had been better maintained to being with.


Why does mileage matter specifically for a new driver? A new driver is more likely than an experienced driver to wreck the car. For a new driver I'd want to see a car that is safe and not too expensive. Provided safety-related stuff such as tires, brakes, suspension, restraints, lights, and wipers are good an Accord should be safe. At under $2k it's cheap enough that a wreck with no injuries is something to be happy about.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon


Why does mileage matter specifically for a new driver? A new driver is more likely than an experienced driver to wreck the car. For a new driver I'd want to see a car that is safe and not too expensive. Provided safety-related stuff such as tires, brakes, suspension, restraints, lights, and wipers are good an Accord should be safe. At under $2k it's cheap enough that a wreck with no injuries is something to be happy about.


Considering the circumstances with that car I would wonder what other surprises await, the fact that "mechanic" hasn't already repaired it my "B.S. detector" is in full gear.
 
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Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell

The other factor is this car is being purchased for a new driver (the OP's son) so I would want a vehicle that was a bit lower in mileage and had been better maintained to being with.


Why does mileage matter specifically for a new driver? A new driver is more likely than an experienced driver to wreck the car. For a new driver I'd want to see a car that is safe and not too expensive. Provided safety-related stuff such as tires, brakes, suspension, restraints, lights, and wipers are good an Accord should be safe. At under $2k it's cheap enough that a wreck with no injuries is something to be happy about.


For a new driver I'd want something that would start so I wouldn't get 12am dad my car is dead or I'm stuck on I95 calls. Also something made in the last decade with more safety equipment than an almost 20 year old Honda.

I'd be shopping used cars a decade younger.
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell

Considering the circumstances with that car I would wonder what other surprises await, the fact that "mechanic" hasn't already repaired it my "B.S. detector" is in full gear.


I can't argue with that. If the car looked to be in good condition it should have been running properly by the end of the second weekend after the mechanic received the title. OTOH, if he got it for the the price of waiving the cost of installing the timing belt I could also see letting it go with no additional investment for the first offer over $500.
 
Ok
What did the mech mean when he said he wasn't going to sink MORE money into it. What exactly has he spent and fine to it so far.
Something smells fishy here. And that car is worth 900 bucks running,without smashed valves.
Find out what the head will cost and minus that,plus. A couple hundred for labour off the 900 he wants.
If you really want to wrench in it offer 500 bucks.
 
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy

For a new driver I'd want something that would start so I wouldn't get 12am dad my car is dead or I'm stuck on I95 calls

It's a '96 Accord not a 2013 Accord. With a decent battery it will start and run.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy

For a new driver I'd want something that would start so I wouldn't get 12am dad my car is dead or I'm stuck on I95 calls

It's a '96 Accord not a 2013 Accord. With a decent battery it will start and run.


If it was reasonably maintained I would agree but this thing we are talking about has been seriously abused.
 
DutchBrad says says he has a buddy who is a mechanic. His eyes will know more than you or me how abused the car is.
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell

Considering the circumstances with that car I would wonder what other surprises await, the fact that "mechanic" hasn't already repaired it my "B.S. detector" is in full gear.


yep that's a big +10

if it was anywhere worth fixing he would fix it and sell it.
 
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I don't get you guys...

There are deals to be had out there if you're willing to do some work. The OP has a mechanic buddy, so tools and knowledge shouldn't be an issue.

If I followed everyone's advice here, then I would never have bought my current project car which is shaping up to be a very low cost (as is cost per projected mile driven) project. All I have to do is get my hands dirty.

It's a 96 Honda for a first time driver, not a middle aged well to do yuppie. I can't think of a better car.
 
That's talking about YOUR ability and willingness to evaluate and tackle project cars. I'm able to do everything from engine/trans rebuilds to bodywork, but in this case I would still pass. It really just boils down to personal opinions and preferences.

Mechanic "buddies" don't tend to last beyond the second/third/fourth round of repairs.

I wish the OP luck, sounds like he's set on getting this thing regardless.
 
Originally Posted By: Mud
Mechanic "buddies" don't tend to last beyond the second/third/fourth round of repairs.


Exactly. If OP could do most/all of the work himself, that would be different, but personally my advice would be to pass on this "deal". Relying on "buddy" mechanic makes this a definite pass IMO.
 
Bent valve equals the opening of Pandora's Box.....it got bent for a reason...for every action, there's an opposite reaction. As much as I like Honda's, I'd pass.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
It's a 96 Honda for a first time driver, not a middle aged well to do yuppie. I can't think of a better car.


I would be concerned about the crashworthiness of a '96 Accord when there are so many better choices. A Crown Vic/GM, Impala, Taurus, etc. can be had for similar total investment.


Originally Posted By: Mud
That's talking about YOUR ability and willingness to evaluate and tackle project cars. I'm able to do everything from engine/trans rebuilds to bodywork, but in this case I would still pass.


I agree. I bought lots of broken cars when I was younger. Fixed some to drive for a while, flipped the rest. Helped me pay my way through college. The key is that I was able to do ALL the necessary work myself. I was selective about my projects and luckily was never burned.

I would always rather pass up a good deal for being too cautious than end up with a money pit for ignoring the warning signs.
 
Only consider buying it you are all of the following:

- a mechanic or know hondas in and out.
- have spare honda accord parts lying around
- time on your hand to do all of the work
- less than $1000 to burn for parts

Without any of these things, it's not worth it.

Only mechanics buy these things and I wouldn't pay more than $400 for this.
 
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when you take the head off, you are gambling that the lower end and pistons are still good. my money very against that bet going in your favor.

if it is an EX model, you can swap in a JDM F23A which can be had on ebay for $500, roughly the same price as a F22B1 junkyard engine with a bazillion miles on it.
 
Originally Posted By: DutchBrad
The car has smoke smell and also burn marks in the seats and center console.


If you're a non smoker, you'll hate that. The cigarette smell never goes away.

The smoke soaks into all the plastic interior parts and also the vinyl wiring insulation.
 
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