Auto RX... so what's the secret?

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fuel tanker man, why not just look up the patent you can then read all about it. Everything you wan to know and then some is in the patent. It leaves out just enough details to keep you from reverse engineering it easily or cheaply! Their is nothing else quite like it on the market!
 
I think you can find the batch process "formula" in the patent application available on the web by searching...

Ther ain't no free; and there ain't no "secrets"

My $0.02
 
Fuel Tanker Man has good posts.
He put his head on the block and asked the tough question.
If Barbara Walters or Bryant Gumbel asked the same thing, they would be hailed as insightful geniuses. I'll bet if FTM ever needed ARx, he'd buy it, no problem.
If you can't ask a question like that around here in this forum, then where?
 
quote:

Originally posted by mechtech:
Fuel Tanker Man has good posts.
He put his head on the block and asked the tough question.
If Barbara Walters or Bryant Gumbel asked the same thing, they would be hailed as insightful geniuses. I'll bet if FTM ever needed ARx, he'd buy it, no problem.
If you can't ask a question like that around here in this forum, then where?


What is the "tough" question?
 
Hmm, someone I know told me the Elf oil he's been using cleaned up his engine nicely. That oil contains a decent amount of esters, as far as I know.

I didn't find any unusual deposits, sludge, or anything out of the ordinary in my filter after using ARX. Oil consumption went down during the rinse phase, but that may well have been due to DELO 400 I was using. Oil consumption is now lower than before the ARX treatment, but how can I know if ARX or the DELO gets the credit? Something worked and may have cleaned the ring land, but what, I don't know. I'm not much of a believer and I'm dying to know whether or not ARX works, but based on my experience with ARX I simply can't make a statement one way or the other that I myself could believe! A UOA may help in coming to a conclusion. I say "may," because I've been using FP and LC, and those may well have an effect, too. There are simply too many variables involved.
 
My motorhome was consuming a couple quarts per OCI. Last OCI I ran a witches' brew that included a quart of Redline. This OCI I am at 2600 miles and have not needed to add any oil. Maybe the Redline did something?
dunno.gif
Or maybe it was me as I have had a lot of trouble reading the dipstick on this vehicle. Perhaps before I was causing consumption by overfilling it. Although I had it overfilled this OCI and had to draw off a half quart (nice to have the SureDrain valve).

Wife's Aerostar consumes a quart every 1300 miles. I plan to run straight Redline in it next OCI. We'll see if it helps consumption.
 
I'd put my money on the ARX, reducing the oil consumption. Also, the lanolin esters are the primary cleaning part of ARX. But it also contains some aliphatic esters, similar to the base stock used in avation oils. Aliphatic esters such as these have a very high resistance to oxidation. Motor failures are a bit more serious at 10,000 feet above sea level. Also contains a small amount of a polyol ester that acts as a supplemental boost in EP to the host oil. Its a combination of esters that allow for the safe, clean as you drive product. On a closing note, when adding ARX to my crankcase, I am happy to be filling volume in my crankcase with something that wasn't pumped out of the ground. And sheep hair grows pretty darn fast. This winter fill your closet with wool products.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mickey_M:

If you want it clean, don't get it dirty.
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Easier said than done. Motor oil lubricates, does not clean. EVEN Red Line. That is why AutoRX was invented. Witness LarryL's example with his Civic. Running RL for over 350k miles and consumption began to increase, causing him to use thicker viscosity:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002428#000000

Now read his above post in this thread. Obviously consumption was due to deposits not wear. Even though it "looked" clean up top, if I recall correctly.

Some oils may keep you clean longer and some motors may stay clean easier but you can't stop the inevitable.
 
I read the thread. Nothing about deposits causing the consumption. Any assumption can be made.
And, I bet his ring tension is shot. ~400k miles will fatigue any material. LarryL should rering the motor.
Someone should send LarryL a free ARX bottle to truly see if his consumption is ring deposits or not.

Don't motor oils have detergents in them? I believe that oils can clean if changed frequently enough.
 
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Just because they have detergents and dispersants doesn't mean they don't leave a mess behind them.

And just because it looks clean up there after 122k miles the rings are surely immobilized by layers of carbon deposits?
wink.gif

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We just pulled the valve covers off a blown 2.7 Chrysler engine. You know, the "sludge monster extraordinare."
smile.gif


It looked astonishingly clean underneath the valve covers. The engine was, however, knocking heavily and likely had a spun bearing.

Not sure what the ring packs looked like, but sludge will form where the engine gets hottest, and stick there--correct?

So you could look good in one area, and not so good in another...

Dan
 
quote:

Not sure what the ring packs looked like, but sludge will form where the engine gets hottest, and stick there--correct?

So you could look good in one area, and not so good in another...

I don't know. Anything I can say regarding this will be an assumption-based opinion and not fact.

I'm still waiting for someone to show a torn down engine that looks partially clean and partially dirty. Doesn't that John Browning feller tear engines down? Maybe he could take some pictures.
 
quote:

Jason Troxell:

quote:

Mickey_M:

If you want it clean, don't get it dirty.
-


Easier said than done. Motor oil lubricates, does not clean. ....


A properly formulated oil does clean.

The additives relative to this discussion are designed to:

- prevent deposits from forming

- keep contaminants in suspension until the oil is changed

- dissolve deposits that have begun to form

If you're getting carbon, sludge, and other deposits in quantities that cause problems, something else is happening:

- the quality of your motor oil

- infrequent changes

- dirty or missing air cleaner or substandard oil filter

- cooling system problems


.
 
quote:

Originally posted by unDummy:
I read the thread. Nothing about deposits causing the consumption. Any assumption can be made.

When I said this thread, I meant the thread you are reading at this very second with the words I am typing right now. No assumptions. ARX is reducing consumption. ARX doesn't replace metal, so what is left? Not an assumption.

This is what LarryL said in this thread:
quote:

m the late cleaning phase, 750 miles and using Delo 400 15w40 and ARX, to clean out a Civic that is approaching 380k miles having never had the head off. I talked with Frank at the beginning of this project and am going to report the details back to him when I'm done. So far the oil consumption has gone to zero over the last 500 miles, from a quart or so ever 1k miles. I've been using FP during the test but not LC, pre Frank's request. Last tank the mileage shot up from 39 to 44 mpg over 367 miles (8.27 gal). Before I claim an overall increase in mileage, I'll calc it over three or four tank fulls. So far the results are great and under the oil fill cap it looks like a new engine. If this is how ARX works, it gets my vote for a product that does what it claims to do and is well worth the price.

 
By the way there was another member running RedLine on a Sienna that started to consume and ARX fixed it. Slider I think. He had some UOA here.
There have been examples of same w/ M1.
Just because you or your uncle has an engine with 200k and doesn't consume doesn't really prove anything. Every engine is different. And modern engines run hotter than ever with high head temps and rings near top of pistons and lower tensions.
 
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