Auto RX progress report on BMW

[Russell]

not really, Gas mileage seems slightly up on interstate trips. However, weather has now gotten quite variable in temperature from about 15 to the 50s with snow, slush and ice. Therefore, gas mileage is hard to really test.

Performance is based on the "butt dyno" so only a precpetion that low end off idle and around town seems stronger.

 

[Russell]

Started my second Auto-rx treatment today on my 95 BMW. Changed the oil/filter with 6 quarts of Penzzoil 10w40 dino and a Mahle filter and of course the rx.

After a 2,500 mile rinse phase with Havoline 10w40, the filter was very clean with small scattered black deposits deep in the pleats. The deposits looked like flakes or sludge and would smear when rubbed. This is very similar to the first cleaning phase.

I sort of expect more of the same as I go through the second treatment. Plan to start the next rinse phase at about 1,500 miles or so. Car seems to run great.

 

[Russell]

I may be wrong here. I am beginning to think the my engine was clean enough that Auto-RX was not needed.

I have owned the BMW for 45,000 miles and almost 3 years. During that time I have gone from high quality dino oil to Mobil 1 15w40, 0w40, and 5w40 with oil/filter changes ever 4-5,000 miles. I suspect most of the crap has been filtered or flushed out.

Even so, I will follow do the second clean and rinse procedure to teh "t" and see what happens. Again, while not much junk seems to be coming out, I at the very least think my engine is as clean as it can be.

 

[Russell]

I am about 1,400 miles into my second ARX clean. Used Penzoil 10w40 dino oil. Noticed nothing odd in way engine runs. Oil is darkening slightly. Plan to go 2,000 and change oil/filter and start the rinse mode.


Funny thing about this car, the longer I have it the better it seems to run

. Perhaps it is because I tend to over maintain it.

 

[Russell]

Second ARX clean is now complete. I went about 2,500 miles before changing the oil/filter to 10w40 Penzoil for the rinse phase. Cut the filter apart and found considerably more deposits (black specks and sludge clumping)down in the pleats than the first clean and rinse. This surprised me a bit. Pleased that more junk is coming out. I plan to go a 5w40 synthetic when the second rinse phase is complete. Well pleased that stuff is still coming out. I am now considering a third treatment. I will evaluate after the rinse.

FYI, I am considering using Lube Control oil treatment when everything is complete and clean. I was using F60 in my gas, ran out and waiting to hear about FP3000 before reordering.

 

[2002 Maxima SE]

Why use Lube Control oil treatment rather than a maint dose of ARX?

 

[dbdeland]

Russell,

I agree with 2002 Maxima se why would you change products when Auto-Rx has proven what it advertises use the maintenance program with Auto-Rx and forget sludge.

 

[Russell]

Good point. However, I understand that lube control can remove the small amount of remaining amber stain on some surfaces. Also I just want to try it. FP60 seems to work well, so why not give LC a try.

 

[Frank]

Auto-Rx cleans out solvents. Why would you consider
adding them? I would mention that ARX Maintenance Plan
will keep your performance numbers same as they were after last cleaning. You will never have to ARX your engine again using maintenance dose. No other product gives you this peformance or protection.

The stain you want to remove is cosmetic and does not effect your engines performance ARX over time will remove this stain.

 

[Russell]

Thanks Frank. So the ARX Maintenance plan will work with synthetic oils. I was not sure.

 

[Frank]

Auto-Rx works with synthetic-semi synthetic oils. Only in rinse mode do we want you to use a non synthetic oil after rinse go back to any oil you want.

 

[uconn1150]

Dave,
Just go to wal-mart and buy the regular SuperTech 10w30 for both vechicles. You want as thin as possible so the A-Rx/oil mix will "splash" everywhere to get yourself a good clean and rinse later on! Keep us posted!

 

[Dave H]

Thanks uconn1150. My Auto-RX was in my mailbox, so looks like I get to do it today.

Dave

 

[Ray Garlington]

Dave H

quote:

---

and unfortunately will be dumping the current GC with only about 700 miles on it to do the Auto-RX process with dino

---

Don't do it!!!! Read this quote carefully:

Frank

quote:

---

Auto-Rx works with synthetic -semi synthetic oils. Only in rinse mode do we want you to use a non synthetic oil after rinse go back to any oil you want.

---

So, just add the AutoRx to your current oil, drive ~1500 miles, then rinse with dino...

 

[Touring5]

Ray- I think he is going to run the ARX Clean + Dino as part of the seal reconditioning procedure (which recommends dino in both phases) because of the leak. Otherwise, you're right - he could run the clean with GC...

 

[XB70]

The 700-mile GC can be saved in a suitable container to be used again after the ARX regimen is finished, can't it?

 

[dbdeland]

Xb60,

If it was me and after cleaning my engine I would put new oil in however it will be ok to reuse it but also will get dirty much quicker.

daryl

 

[Dave H]

Ray,

If I was just doing a "normal" cleaning, I would have continued with the GC. But I am doing the seal reconditioning procedure, which like Touring5 said, recommends dino.
I have already dumped it, and started the AutoRX with Castrol GTX 10w30 ($1.77/qt at Advance Auto). I guess it would have been possible to re-use GC with only 700 miles, but I would feel a whole lot better knowing virgin oil was in my engine after the full AutoRX treatment. With my luck, the oil would've gotten sand or crud in it from draining, and I wouldn't want that in my clean engine.
After my rinse cycle is done, I may go back to the GC unless I find another comparable, suitable oil (any ideas?). I'm still intrigued by the differences in Nissan's European recommended viscosities compared to the US (CAFE influenced??). A 10w40 may be more suitable for my engine, which is much quieter on the thicker 30 wt GC than other 30 wts (I haven't tried 40 wts, but they and even 50 wts are recommended in Europe for the same car).

I know some people are probably still gasping for breath after reading about 700 mile GC being drained (and it was the green). Sorry guys. I'm just following the AutoRX instructions for reconditioning a leaking seal. If it's any consolation, I really liked that oil. My engine was smoother, and definitely quieter. And if dumping the GC with so few miles wasn't bad enough, I also had a Mobil 1 filter on there.

Yeah, I've had a very rough day.... But I have no doubt it is for the best in the long run.

Dave

 

[Dave H]

This post has been very informative. I ordered Auto-RX Friday to run in my '97 Maxima and '88 Nissan pickup. Should have it this week to start on both. I found a slight rear valve cover leak on the Maxima, and unfortunately will be dumping the current GC with only about 700 miles on it to do the Auto-RX process with dino (as in the instructions for Auto-RX). The Maxima has 109,000 and the pickup has 180,000+ miles.
Nissan VQ's like thicker 30 weights (and possibly even higher). GC (a thick 30 wt) has definitely quieted my engine compared to Castrol GTX 5w30 and especially Mobil 1 5w30. The european viscosity chart for my engine recommends everything from 10w30 to 20w50 for my embient temps, but says 5w30 will positively improve fuel economy (and 5w20 can be used below 14*F, but not recommended for high speed driving). Based on this, I am thinking a 10w30 or even up to a 15w40 would be more suitable for my blazingly hot area (Louisiana).
Can someone more knowledgeable than me please recommend a quality dino from a 10w30-15w40 to run with Auto-RX? The truck US specs for a 10w30, but I would have no qualms about running slightly thicker in it, too. Neither vehicle burns oil.

Thanks.

Dave

 

[Cooper]

Bump