Auto-RX in 3.0L Camry

[Mark_S]

Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Just checked oil level after sitting for night, will add some. And took a closer look. Someone took off valve cover before, I can see liquid gasket sticking out in some places. Question will it easily come off? And should I use liquid one again or just order one from internet. There is confusion to me again, which side is front part of engine? Left or Right? As I remember--left. Also will need to remove coolant hose from radiator, it goes right above left part of valve cover. Don"t really want to mess with coolant spills,in my parents garage.




I have a 99 Avalon with the same V6. I bought it new, and it just turned 257,000 miles. The front valve cover is easy to remove. I like Felpro gaskets, and I got mine from Advance. You will need a small amount of liquid gasket to put in the corners near the cam shaft. I used a little emory cloth and toluene to clean off the surface before I put the new gasket back on. I would take the time to do this if it were my car, simply to know what I was up against.

If you are successful in removing the sludge, make sure you use a good synthetic oil. I did not for the first 100,000 miles or so, but I did change the oil and filter every 3 to 5,000 miles. I suppose this is what prevented sludge in mine. I now use Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 and either a Mobil 1 or Pure One filter. I change oil and filter every 7 to 8,000 miles with no sludge. The car uses maybe 1 quart between changes. I hope you decide to remove the front valve cover an take some photos. I think you would feel better knowing.

 

[unDummy]

The screwdriver picture tells a story in itself.

I would stop using cheapo mineral oil. Don't want to add to the sludge. As you burn oil, top it off regularly until you run out of your Supertech or whatever. Start buying synthetics from this point on even if it contradicts the ARX directions.

I would definitely cut open every filter during that ARX run, especially if bore-scope inspection or valve cover removal is too difficult. It would be good to see what is going on and filter contents might give a clue.

I would NOT run ANY other additives until you inspect your engine.

How many miles do you drive a week?

Those recommended directions will keep you busy for a long time.

Add another bottle of Auto-Rx now
Change filter @ 500 miles after 2nd bottle added - add oil as needed
Change filter @ 1000miles (1500+) add oil as needed
Change filter @ 1000 miles (2500+) add oil as needed
Change filter @ 1000 miles (3500+) add oil as needed
Change filter @ 1000 miles (4500+) add oil as needed
Change oil and filter @ 1000 miles (5500+) DO NOT ADD AUTO-RX
Change filter @ 1000 miles
Run oil and filter to 3000 total miles
Change oil and filter
Add last bottle of Auto-Rx
Drive 3000 miles
Change oil and filter
Drive 3000 miles
Return to your normal oil and time/mileage oil change interval.


When you reach that final last step in 14k miles, then and only then would I consider some other additive.

I can't stress how important it is to keep your oil level full always. Idiot lights are for idiots, and are always TOO late.

If you don't want to drop the oil pan, I have a method to remove sludge from the bottom end area, once it is verified with a bore-scope or valve cover removal as being critical.

You can use the carb cleaner to clean up the oil fill screen.

 

[zyxelenator]

Well if I would get it new, I would use synthetic from start, like my father does to his Nissan truck. I was planning on using High-Mileage Synthetic Mobil 1, when I just got it.
That's what I got out thru those 2 little holes.

A lot of little chunks of sludge,that I scraper out from hole underneath PCV. Very sticky and feels like there is a sand inside.

 

[zyxelenator]

Originally Posted By: unDummy
The screwdriver picture tells a story in itself.

I would stop using cheapo mineral oil. Don't want to add to the sludge. As you burn oil, top it off regularly until you run out of your Supertech or whatever. Start buying synthetics from this point on even if it contradicts the ARX directions.


If you don't want to drop the oil pan, I have a method to remove sludge from the bottom end area, once it is verified with a bore-scope or valve cover removal as being critical.

I don't drive a lot a for today. I'm laid off till march. Otherwise it was close to 2k miles a month. I will take valve cover probably soon, will ask Tech guy to stand around an advice, just in case. Never done it. Same for oil pan, probably next oil change.

 

[electrolover]

do the arx and just watch the oil pressure. then step it up a notch.

lol i bet if you filled it with diesel the sludge would lubricate very well lol

 

[Johnny]

zyxelenator, he is kidding about filling it up with diesel (I hope).

The best advise you have gotten so for is from unDummy and bmwtechguy. Listen to them.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
zyxelenator, he is kidding about filling it up with diesel (I hope).

The best advise you have gotten so for is from unDummy. Listen to him.


haha of course

 

[bmwtechguy]

Sounds like your engine is not as far gone as the one I worked on, based on the single puff of smoke at start up. This guy had neglected his oil changes while using regular oil and even admitted "missing a few oil changes" along the way. The stopped up drain holes in the rear bank were just too far gone for any chemical to clean them out alone, based on how hard it was to clean them out manually....it was like chipping through solid rock!

 

[Vikas]

If I were in your shoes, I would use that "screw driver test" to find the best chemical to fix this problem using actual experiments. For example, suppose you have been told that Kreen is the best for this situation.

Mix small amount of Kreen and oil in the correct proportion, warm it up, put the solution in a clear container and dip your messy screwdriver in it. Give it some time.

If the following two conditions are met, you have found your solution:-

1) Screw driver becomes squeaky clean
2) Importantly, the solution has no solids floating in it i.e. it liquefies all the sludge rather than breaking it up.

As long as you have the steady supply of the "messy screwdriver", you can try this with different elixirs such as MMO or zMax.

- Vikas

 

[demarpaint]

Is zMax really a cleaner? While I like the idea of your test it would be unfair to test a product that really isn't intended to be a cleaner.

 

[Vikas]

I was just trying to steer him towards Kreen/MMO but wanted to come across as impartial, so I threw in zMax

 

[Vikas]

I was just trying to steer him towards Kreen/MMO but wanted to come across as impartial, so I threw in zMax

Since he has easy supply of sludge, he is in perfect situation to find the best cleaner with least side effects for his need.

- Vikas

 

[demarpaint]

I got it now!

 

[ChuckBerry]

Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
I was planning on using High-Mileage Synthetic Mobil 1, when I just got it.


The ARX website very specifically recommends NOT using high mileage oils with ARX.

High Mileage Oils:

These are verboten.
DO NOT USE HIGH MILEAGE OILS WITH AUTO-RX.
DO NOT USE HIGH MILEAGE OILS WITH AUTO-RX.
DO NOT USE HIGH MILEAGE OILS WITH AUTO-RX.


These contain seal swelling and seal softening agents that will be counter productive and can indeed exacerbate your condition and even damage an otherwise restorable seal.

Did I fail to mention:
DO NOT USE HIGH MILEAGE OILS WITH AUTO-RX.

http://www.auto-rx.activeboard.com/index.spark?aBID=108943&p=3&topicID=39712788

 

[zyxelenator]

After ARX

 

[unDummy]

Definitely use it after auto-rx. Valvoline makes a full synthetic Maxlife(hard to find). And, your Mobil1-HM oils are an excellent choice.

No seals are restorable. And, if Auto-rx helps a seal, it then becomes or acts just like a seal conditioner which is not much different then the so-called seal conditioners already in EVERY oil.
Maxlife Full synth
M1-HM

 

[unDummy]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Is zMax really a cleaner? While I like the idea of your test it would be unfair to test a product that really isn't intended to be a cleaner.


The unique ability of zMAX to soak into metal and reduce engine deposits results in:Increased Gas Mileage (helps maintain gas mileage in newer cars, and helps improve or restore gas mileage in older cars, by virtue of reducing engine deposits).Reduced Emissions (helps maintain emissions in newer cars, and reduce emissions in older cars, by virtue of reducing engine deposits ) Its a MicroLube®™© that reduces engine deposits. I guess reducing engine deposits has nothing to do with cleaning

Nothing wrong with MMO or Kreen. For now, the OP needs to wait until he's completed the silly 14k run requested by Autorx before attempting any other products.

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: unDummy
For now, the OP needs to wait until he's completed the silly 14k run requested by Autorx before attempting any other products.


From the sounds of things, that's going to be a while

 

[zyxelenator]

Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: unDummy
For now, the OP needs to wait until he's completed the silly 14k run requested by Autorx before attempting any other products.


From the sounds of things, that's going to be a while

It fine if it will be in a while, worse will be if I use flush and clog oil pick up.
I had a thought to use syntech Penzoil for Rinse Phases, + MMO for first rinse, Kreen in the end of Last Rinse Phase. Then 5000 Miles With Lubro Moly Flush in the end, Then M1 HM for rest of life with different additives like Moly.

 

[electrolover]