ATF additives?

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I just overhauled my mitsu gearbox becos it was slipping and gearchanges were #@$%!.
First few days running on fresh Mitsu DiaQueen atf fluid the gear changes were extremely smooth, after which today i added 4oz of LC20 and a bottle of Lubegard black together. Now gear changes starts to becomw jerky again!!
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Would Auto-rx be applicable here since my gb is alrdy squeaky clean?
I would like to know of any miracle additives that exist for auto boxes?
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Use the recommended fluid without aftermarket supplements.
The genuine oils contain additive packages that are a very fine balance of many components. Tipping in extra 'stuff' can upset that balance.
 
I don't like to mix multiple additives, and especially not in an ATX.

You may be experiencing an interaction with all that is in there. It could be creating some unwanted deposits, depending on the chemistry.

By all means, ARX will overpower the other two and get everything lifted out, but you'll need to leave it in for 1500. ARX is a great ATX problem solver. I'd do that and then start fresh.

Between the two additives you mentioned, I would use just the LC-20 next time. I'm not a big fan of ATF additives, but that is one I do like in ATXes.
 
argh silly me. my hand itchy cos i wanted to try to "prolong" the life of the autobox
anyway can some1 enlighten me on which is a good or best atf fluid?
is schauffuer #204 or mitsu diaqueen iii better?
 
Prolong the life of the ATF with an aftermarket filter and cooler.

Stick with the OEM fluid or any multivehicle ATF that mentions the spec.

Don't use any additives on that new transmission. With clean fluid(filter), and fluid not overheating(cooler), your transmission's life will be increased.

When using OEM fluid, lubegard red, not black, should've been used.
 
I've got a full bottle of Lubagard Platinum in my 94 Safari's 4L60E. Did that about 2000 miles ago and no problems to report so far. The van has 234000 miles, don't know when the transmission was serviced last.
 
Update:
Went down to my mech told him i wanted to change back SP2 fluid. He said to even out the chemicals inside since only 4quarts can b drain he recommended to put M1 D3.
Put in M1 still got slight jerkiness. Mayb another few thousand KM i will do a flush and put SP2 fluid
 
Lubeguard Black is a friction characteristic modifier, it will change the characteristics of your fluid ALOT. They use that to modify Dexron into other custom fluids for other types of transmissions. Most shops in my area use it heavily for Dexron III to ATF+3/4 conversions.

Lubeguard red will basically do for your transmission what LC20 is said to do for engines, reduce oxidation of fluids.

As much as I love LC20, I would not add to to a transmission unless it was a last ditch effort to try to elongate service life until I could repair the unit. LC20 has made my engine run ALOT smoother. I am not sure that same effect in a transmission would be totally positive.

I agree with others here, the best thing you can do for a transmission is;
1. Give it its specified fluid, if that means you spend a few dollars over the price of the cheap DexIII fluid....spend it. Better 20.00 now than 2,000.00 later for a transmission rebuild.
2. Give it a cooler. Heat is a total transmission killer. Heat that fluid up beyond a certain point, it will rapidly break down, then its nearly useless.
3. Change fluid/filter when it needs it. I know many boxes now are "Lifetime Fill". I am not trusting that in many conditions. Most of us are easily within severe service guidelines.
 
Quote:


Update:
Went down to my mech told him i wanted to change back SP2 fluid. He said to even out the chemicals inside since only 4quarts can b drain he recommended to put M1 D3.
Put in M1 still got slight jerkiness. Mayb another few thousand KM i will do a flush and put SP2 fluid




What? This makes no sense "even out the chemicals"......M1 is good fluid, but using it as a temporary partial flush doesn’t make a ton of sense. Just fully flush through with the correct fluid and be done with it.
 
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