Are we over exaggerating the perfect ATF fluid level? thermal expansion seems to think we are

...meaning the correct level is critical unlike engine oil
But agree with everyone. I do not think anyone who is on this discussion, by the very nature of it, would get the level outside of a safe range.

i do agree but just wanted to confirm.
lets say a tranny has a perfect level at 5quarts of fluid. and lets say the manufacturer says to check the fluid and set the level at 120F for example sake. With there level check procedure, that would mean if you did it perfect to the T with no errors and perfect procedure. You would have set the level at 5 quarts and been perfect.

All i am saying is if you missed the temperature setting by a normal human error range which could be like 5-10f, all i am saying is even if you set the level perfect at the 130F or 110F, the difference in fluid level would be negligible meaning even if you were wrong by a few F, there is no way that too much fluid could be overfilled or underfilled. According to my above calc, around 60mL based on a temp variance of around 10F. 60mL in the grandschemes is a tiny amount in a whole 10qt system

Which I mean as long as you did your best and were close enough, there is no way you can do any damage as i seriously doubt 60ml under or overfilled could do damage. However 500mL overful or underfilled, anyone can agree that even to the human eye that is ALOT of fluid to be wrong by and i do not agree with not trying to be 'close' to the manufacterer value / procedure.

Regarding the 'critical' portion, i don't think for my example with the 5q perfect fluid level capacity that it is critical that the volume is 5q on the dot. as long as it it 4.95q to 5.05q you are fine. However it is 'critical' to not set the level at 4q or 6q, that is the part i agree with for sure
 
On that application, this is how I do it:

Start with trans fluid temp below 80F. Start engine, shift thru all gears, fill until fluid begins to run out. Reinstall plug.

Wait until 90-92F, unscrew check plug and allow excess to drain out. Reinstall plug.

At 102F, remove check plug, not much will come out at this point; reinstall plug by 104F and you are done.

The trick is to drain the excess in stages; otherwise, if you have too much to drain, it takes too long and you will be out of range.


Also, a few ounces can matter on SOME applications - see this one:
 
That's interesting 'cause Car Care Nut has said not to do that.

I will admit, if you're positive you can catch ~98% of what came out and accurately measure it AND all other things are equal (like the temp of old fluid and new fluid), it's difficult to see how that won't work fine.

How is looking at the level of drained fluid in a graduated bucket different than reading lines on a dipstick after all? But again, I'll continue to do the "proper" procedure because it's OBVIOUSLY VERY important and the transmission will absolutely explode whilst of course taking down the obligatory bus load of nuns.

The key is deciding which is the "proper" procedure :D Do you identify as the lower temp range human or the upper temp range human? Or perhaps non-binary and it changes each day??
This is why I intend to do mine by weight, with a very precise scale. Measure the empty pan, measure the full pan, scale as I pour fresh fluid in. Temperature won't matter. Mine has never been opened, factory fill from Japan, so I am assuming they got it correct.

However a tech here told me they did by volume, and I believe him. The "till it stops dripping" is not only 100% dependant on temp, but level - and how on earth do you know a used vehicle is level given the transmission is sprung weight and springs settle unevenly? It is such an issue Toyota issued a TSB, and some new tools - see video below - I cued it to the proper part but starts around 7:00. Anyway, I am sticking with weight, or really, mass.


 
You'd be surprised how many transmissions are considerably over or under filled from the factory following manufacture check procedures. The manufactures don't seem worried about it, for better or worse. Quite possible the fill level being absolutely perfect is not as important as we like to make it out to be.
Our last 3 were overfilled by the factory from .5 to .75 of a quart.
 
I’ve come to really appreciate the Toyota method. It still isn’t perfect - more can come out than intended, but once getting a good feel for the right amount of drizzle it’s been fine.

Agree with a post above - for as particular as people claim todays transmissions are, I’ve found oems to not be surprisingly inconsistent.
 
Biggest factor on overfill is the typical old school inline trans had a valve body on the bottom of the main case and then the main case itself. So you had a linear fill amount vs oil level for the first part of the pan volume, then it goes quickly non-linear as volume is taken up by valve body, housing, and eventually the clutch packs. Of course oil in the rotating parts leads to aeration and inconsistency.

I know at GM 20 yrs ago the push was to be able to put all the fluid in the trans at the trans build plant, use quick connects with wax plugs to keep them from leaking, and just plug in the cooler lines at vehicle assembly not having to worry about topping up fluid on the main assy line which is something the plant folks really wanted to eliminate. It was "messy". I'd speculate this is pretty common practice now.
 
my transmission builder had me scribe a line on my dipstick that is approximately 1.5 inches higher than the full hot level and wants it filled there cold.
 
This is why I intend to do mine by weight, with a very precise scale. Measure the empty pan, measure the full pan, scale as I pour fresh fluid in. Temperature won't matter. Mine has never been opened, factory fill from Japan, so I am assuming they got it correct.

However a tech here told me they did by volume, and I believe him. The "till it stops dripping" is not only 100% dependant on temp, but level - and how on earth do you know a used vehicle is level given the transmission is sprung weight and springs settle unevenly? It is such an issue Toyota issued a TSB, and some new tools - see video below - I cued it to the proper part but starts around 7:00. Anyway, I am sticking with weight, or really, mass.



That’s a good idea indeed however just curious wouldn’t dirty fluid weigh more then clean? Meaning it won’t be perfectly accurate anyways?
 
That’s a good idea indeed however just curious wouldn’t dirty fluid weigh more then clean? Meaning it won’t be perfectly accurate anyways?
Small amount of wear material in the fluid. How much more or less dense is that material than ATF? I would say the error there is going to be much less than trying to get the car level or determine when the stream goes to a drip or getting the temperature correct or reading a meniscus on a jug.
 
Do not wish to start a new post but would like to add my thoughts on ATF change. This post is about ATF change in so called sealed automatic transmissions (no dipstick)

With the vehicle parked on a known level surface and the vehicle tyres at the correct pressure and the ambient temperature at 20 degrees Celsius +/- 3 degrees and the vehicle has sat for 24 hours, what would be the issues doing a drain and refill using a graduated container given the consistent temp.

Same amount of ATF added as was removed. The temp chosen is because in the part of Australia I live in 20 degrees Celsius is easy to obtain.

20 degrees was also chosen as the ATF will flow easier than for example 5 degrees, of course a higher temp could be used.

I would be interested to hear detailed views for and against the method I described.
 
Do not wish to start a new post but would like to add my thoughts on ATF change. This post is about ATF change in so called sealed automatic transmissions (no dipstick)

With the vehicle parked on a known level surface and the vehicle tyres at the correct pressure and the ambient temperature at 20 degrees Celsius +/- 3 degrees and the vehicle has sat for 24 hours, what would be the issues doing a drain and refill using a graduated container given the consistent temp.

Same amount of ATF added as was removed. The temp chosen is because in the part of Australia I live in 20 degrees Celsius is easy to obtain.

20 degrees was also chosen as the ATF will flow easier than for example 5 degrees, of course a higher temp could be used.

I would be interested to hear detailed views for and against the method I described.
i don't see an issue with it at all only as long as the fluid level before you dumped out the old fluid is correct and around the proper level.

i know my original post is long but if you give it a read maybe it will give you some mindset relief such that even if you drain 3 quarts and refill 3.05 quart or 2.95 quart you are def still fine as a tranny wont break down cuz its 0.05 quarts too low ahahah

in most tranny's it seems as if overfill/underfill symptons only really show when it is a considerable amount low or high such as 1/2 quart low or 1/2 quart high
 
My question is how do you level the car. are there leveling lug points where it can be checked? A two or three degree lean would give the same result as a few degrees in temperature. If the trans pan is level X and Y is that good? Without reference to level it is haphazard at best.
MHO
Smoky
 
The whole system of checking the level through the drain plug came about because when people used dip sticks, the fluid temperature was all over the place when people checked and it was hard to get a consistent level reading. They were checking the level after a drive around the block one day and a half hour on the highway the next. This now standardizes it at a specific temperature range that most owners and shops can reach in a few minutes of idling. 2 ounces more or less wont cause any issues.
That's why the dipstick has a range for "full". Any reading in that range can be considered full. Accommodates the temp changes.
 
hello, i recently changed the atf fluid in my 2015 toyota. it has the u760 tranny and the u760/u660 have no dipstick so they have a certain level check that happens between 104f-113f and some docs say the fluid check can be done between 95-113f. The drain hole/port has a little fill tube preinstalled to do the fluid check. When the temp is around 104f, the instructions say to take out the drain plug and to drain and word for word based on the toyota document "Wait until the fluid flow slows and only drips come out"

depending on how much fluid comes out, a tranny could easily be at 115-120f when only drips come out. Also everyone has a different definition of 'only drips come out". I watched many youtube videos of people doing the fluid check and people were reinstalling the drain plug when the fluid was still draining as a slight stream, dribbling, and or dripping at a super slow speed. All in all it doesn't seem like anyone experienced any ill fate based on what they defined "a few drips come out" as

when i did my level check, idk how perfect i got it as i started dumping fluid out of the hole at around 104f and not sure what the temp was at when only a few drips came out. I probably reinstalled the plug within 30 seconds and when I did reinstall it, I was definetly closer to the "few drips coming out"

Of course I was planning to recheck the fluid in a few days which is why I didn't do a perfect level check the first time however all of this got me thinking.

I started wondering to myself on how much the fluid could even expand between the 104f to 113f and even if someone stopped the fluid level check at 120f how much extra fluid could even be drained/how 'off' the fluid level check could be. So I pulled up google and started looking for the thermal expansion of ATF which seems to be around 0.07% per delta degree celcius. So I decided to put some math into it and lets see what we come to. Just incase the 0.07% is too low, lets just round that value to 0.1% per delta degree celcius just so we can have the safest value incase 0.07 is not correct.

Toyota says the fluid level should be set at 104f to 113f. Which essentially means they give a 9F window to do the level check meaning even if you set it perfect right at 104F then that is the same as someone else who set it perfectly at 113F even tho both will have a slight variance in total fluid level in the system

Assuming most people probably reinstall the plug too late rather then too early (too much fluid is coming out and temperature heats up before plug can be installed)

For our example lets say a perfect fluid level check is at the average of 104f to 113F. so lets say the avg is 109F. Lets also assume 'Joe' ends up finishing the fluid level check procedure at 120F. (i seriously doubt someone could take longer then 1-2 minutes setting the fluid level as long as they started to take the plug out at around 100F. Lets also say the whole tranny and tubing/cooler line system holds a total of 10 quarts. (the tranny/tq converter holds about 6q from a dry fill so lets say 4q more for the cooler and the remaining tubing)

109F = 42.77 Celcius, 120F = 48.88 Celcius.
The delta of these two also known as the change in these two would be : 48.88C - 42.77C = 6.11 Celcius.

0.1% / 100 = 0.001 (to get rid of the percent). 0.001 / Degree C x 10 Quarts capacity x 6.11 C = 0.0611 quart expansion when starting at 109F and ending at 120F

Now lets expand that quart decimal and see what we get in ounces/Ml.

1 Quart is 946mL or 32 oz. Which means that 0.0611 quart is equal to 57.8mL or 1.96 oz

So essentially the fluid level in the whole system would only change by approx 2oz or 2 table spoons between 109F and 120F
which in other words means someone who set the level perfectly at 109F would have 2 tbsp/2oz more fluid then someone who incorrectly set it perfectly at 120F

Now this is where the discussion begins. I am not a tranny mechanic or a tranny engineer. But what I think is that there is no way that someone incorrectly setting the fluid level as described above could end up doing any damage to there tranny. 2 tbps or 2 oz is the smallest amount. Could a system that holds 10quarts of capacity really be bothered with a variance of 60mL? that seems like the tinyiest amount. HOWEVER i totally agree that someone setting the fluid level incorrectly and having 1quart under or 1 quart over is probably not doing there tranny a favor. I am in no way saying not to ignore your certain tranny fluid level check procedure. All I am trying to say is as long as you are in the ball park range of setting the fluid level on your tranny I doubt you can do any damage. I have spoken to many mechanics and alot of them just measure what came out and refill that much in and they seem to never have any problem and now that I got the math into it it totally makes sense. It seems like the only way people can do damage to there tranny or will have symptoms of wrong fluid level is if they are a considerable amount of fluid low or high. Maybe that value is a pint, maybe that value is 1 quart. I don't really know but I seriously doubt anything less then 100mL could do any damage.

I also believe that the reason these brands have a stingent fluid level check procedure is for the people who want it to be perfect and also so that most people are in the ballpark range. If they had no dipstick and no fluid level check procedure then people could easily be 1-2 quarts over or 1-2 quarts too less. So by following there fluid level check procedure, even if you don't finish it between there outlined temp range of 104f to 113F as long as you did it close enough to that temp range you are probably safe. I am not saying to do the fluid level check at 200F and assuming it will be the same as 104F, no way it will be. However as long as you finish the fluid level check at 120F or even 95F you are probably FINE since the variance between the perfect fluid level as per Toyota and being off by a few degree celcius / F can only really change the total fluid level in the system by maybe 1 tbps, 2 tbps, 3 tbps or 1oz, 2 oz, 3oz, etc


However I opened this thread as a discussion and hope to hear some knowledgable info about this, maybe I am completely wrong and that tranny's want there fluid level to be precise to the t and cannot tolerance a fluid level variance of 2 tablespoons but with just imaging a drain pan and thinking 2oz are gonna make or a break a tranny seems impossible for me to understand. If I am mistaken please let me know so this thread does not end up educating DIYer's or mechanics in the wrong way

View attachment 214013
Look up thermal expansion coef for ATF. Plug in your temps and get a result "accurate" to as many decimal places you want, if that will make you happy. Keep your mind busy over thinking this stuff. LOL
 
Do not wish to start a new post but would like to add my thoughts on ATF change. This post is about ATF change in so called sealed automatic transmissions (no dipstick)

With the vehicle parked on a known level surface and the vehicle tyres at the correct pressure and the ambient temperature at 20 degrees Celsius +/- 3 degrees and the vehicle has sat for 24 hours, what would be the issues doing a drain and refill using a graduated container given the consistent temp.

Same amount of ATF added as was removed. The temp chosen is because in the part of Australia I live in 20 degrees Celsius is easy to obtain.

20 degrees was also chosen as the ATF will flow easier than for example 5 degrees, of course a higher temp could be used.

I would be interested to hear detailed views for and against the method I described.
I personally don't see an issue. Your literally taking an amount out and putting the identical amount back in.

I was originally going to do it this way - but what concerns me is making sure to exactly measure the amount coming out vs going back in. Why I have decided to do it by weight - its easier for me to measure. I do already have a scale though, so if I didn't I would try this way.
 
Whilst I prefer the fill/dipstick tube on the older Tahoe - I did not find the Jeep 850RE procedure to be that bad - they warm up pretty slow sitting on ramps …
 
Back
Top