Are Purolators thin skinned?

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I installed a Walmart $3.97 Purolator Classic last night. Was using the Fram Xtended Guard for a couple years, but decided it was overkill for 6k OCI. Never used the classic before. As I hand tightened I could feel it deforming so I stopped. While the car was running I put my hand on it to check for leaks, could feel the filter walls pulsing as the oil passed through. Thats thin. Is this normal for a classic? Or is this the Walmart version of the classic?
 
It's thick enough. It's certainly not thinnest can out there. According to this site it has the same thickness as the OEM. The Classic, P1, and Motorcraft have a fairly stiff rigid can. But no where near the Napa filters. Napa filters take a lot more effort to cut open.

Those Toyotas won't even put a dent on any of these filters.

http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html
 
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Both the classic and the pureone are the only filters I can cut with a can opener. They do seem thinner than a WIX which is really my only basis for comparison.

I still use and love them but in my experience yes.
 
They are thin but not the thinnest. Also keep in mind you don't know the grade/quality of steel they are made out of. They still have a burst ratting several times higher then what your peak oil pressure should ever get to.
 
Any oil filter is designed to accept pressure loads.
I would expect the can to have some expansion under pressure loads, just as aircraft fuselages do, although the aiplanes are expected to do a whole lot more cycles than is an oil filter.
If you actually permanently deformed the can with your fingers, ease up on the death grip a little.
 
I bought one for my Evo the other day for $3.27 here in FL. The L14610 felt sturdy as any Puro classic filter I've bought from AAP.
 
The Classics at Walmart are no different than any other Classics sold elsewhere. Doubt if there is a "Walmart" version being made. The Classic is probably on of just a small percentage of products that Walmart sells that's not make in China.
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When I run some heavier oils....I like to use the Purolator Classic filters. They have great oil flow and keep the oil clean. I've run these Classic filters for 6K to 7K at high speed highway driving and have never had a problem with any Classic Filter.

IMO....Purolator Classics sold at WM are the same that are sold at Kmart, Advance Auto and other retailers. It would cost too much time and wasted money to run out a separate line of Purolator Classic filters just for WM. Don't forget....Purolator has their name on these filters and the consequences of filter failure would hurt their reputation.
 
Originally Posted By: bepperb
Both the classic and the pureone are the only filters I can cut with a can opener.


LOL, very true. I was so spoiled by this, when I tried the same thing with different brand, the can opener broke. Now, if one uses 20W50 in arctics, it could be an issue.
 
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
it takes a blowtorch to cut open a Fram!
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Yeah, and its all cardboard inside. The irony.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
bepperb said:
Now, if one uses 20W50 in arctics, it could be an issue.


It "could" as you say, but likely won't.

If a NASCAR team decided to use a single L14610 on one of their engines, it could be an issue.
 
Originally Posted By: mongo161
Don't forget....Purolator has their name on these filters and the consequences of filter failure would hurt their reputation.


Like the recalls that Fr*m had to issue in years past?
 
if your used to spinning on top tier filters like a XG, yeah the classic may seem on the thin side. But I think it is equal to or better than other filters in its class.
 
I've never had any filter burst open inclucing the Puro's which I use almost exclusivly. I have cut them open with a Hack Saw and it takes a bit to get them started while cutting.

Yeah, they're a bit thin but, I don't see any issues with the gague of the metal.
 
Yeah the XG spoiled me. Rock solid with a grip that made it easy to get on and off. One other thing I noticed - I'm neurotic about priming filters to the point the threads are flooded. In addition to helping eliminate the dry start I read somewhere the initial surge and pressure of the oil into a dry filter can tear or deform the paper media. Not sure if thats a myth but seems possible. Anyways the start was as if I hadn't primed at all. No ticking just that hard (for lack of a better description) seizing feeling as the oil flows. You know what I mean. Maybe because I let the car drain for over an hour the engine was dry, took a moment to circulate. If so that raises another issue. An extended drain (long time letting the oil drain out) may make the engine too dry upon restart after fill, and the nasty leftovers we try to get rid of may prevent wear.
 
When tightening the filter by hand, try to just grab it on the end where the flutes are ... it's stronger and less flexible in that area than in the center of the can (true for any filter). I use the PureOne, so the grip surface makes it easier to install and remove by hand.
 
Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
if your used to spinning on top tier filters like a XG, yeah the classic may seem on the thin side. But I think it is equal to or better than other filters in its class.

+1 Through many years of diy, can thickeness has never been an issue with any filter I've used in PC use.

It is the same Classic as sold at parts stores and Kmart.
 
If you remove a hand tightened used filter with channel lock pliers you'll need a stronger can. Spring for a special tool, or a K & N filter with the nut on the end.
 
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