Apparently either SKF doesn't make their Bearings as good as they used to or RockAuto sold me a counterfeit.
- Thread starter R18Civic
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Mine shipped out of Twinsburg, Ohio
I will definitely be contacting them
I don't think I've ever gotten parts from either of those warehouses, so I'm not familiar with them
Have either of you googled your respective return addresses?
GM has been using Korean Iljin bearings in many of their recent cars. So Korea might not necessarily be a scam
Two things come to mind, what torque spec did you use? The fact Rock is not an authorized dealer and buys whatever they can from whoever they can the door is certainly open for fakes.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
I opened Pandora’s box 
How many miles on this vehicle? Seems odd to be on the 3rd set of hubs for a 2009 sedan, unless you're really putting the miles on.
Even so, that doesn't make a possibly counterfeit, any less so.
Is the bearing itself visible on the back and if so does it have SKF stamped (or laser etched?) on it?
Even so, that doesn't make a possibly counterfeit, any less so.
Is the bearing itself visible on the back and if so does it have SKF stamped (or laser etched?) on it?
aftermarket bolt-on hubs have always been lowest bidder items. timken and skf routinely rebadge whitebox items you can get under autoshack detroit axle etc.
i rarely have issues with these but if your luck runs out just go on ebay and get another one that works or buy genuine and forget about it.
i rarely have issues with these but if your luck runs out just go on ebay and get another one that works or buy genuine and forget about it.
One of the few problems I've had with RA was a pair of hubs for a turn of the century Chevy. The SKF boxes I received contained another well known brand of hubs, I'm sure they got reboxed in some parts store or WH somewhere along the way. RA was great about replacing them, said to do as I pleased with the wrong ones - that's why I remember, I see them on the shelf still.
At least for this car, when I got the actual SKF hubs, the quality difference was visible.
Years ago, I worked in auto parts, and when the lines changed, the folks coming in were more than happy to put whatever brand of parts were on the shelf, into their boxes for sale. I thought that weird, especially when the same reps would spend hours trying to tell me how their particular brand of parts was the only one worthy of using.
At least for this car, when I got the actual SKF hubs, the quality difference was visible.
Years ago, I worked in auto parts, and when the lines changed, the folks coming in were more than happy to put whatever brand of parts were on the shelf, into their boxes for sale. I thought that weird, especially when the same reps would spend hours trying to tell me how their particular brand of parts was the only one worthy of using.
I don't think I've ever gotten parts from either of those warehouses, so I'm not familiar with them
Have either of you googled your respective return addresses?
GM has been using Korean Iljin bearings in many of their recent cars. So Korea might not necessarily be a scam
Luckily I took one good picture before installation
I don't have the box, and the tracking number isn't that specific
But there's a Parts Pro warehouse in Twinsburg
Does RockAuto use them?
I know of Parts Plus, Parts Authority, and Prime Automotive as RA fullfilers, because I've been in them IRL around NYC
118-119 lb ft of torque. It had SKF stamped on the back of the hub however it was not Laser etched into the face of the hub like shown in the last picture.
147000 miles. GM FWD sedans eat wheel bearings if they've got big V6s in them.How many miles on this vehicle? Seems odd to be on the 3rd set of hubs for a 2009 sedan, unless you're really putting the miles on.
Even so, that doesn't make a possibly counterfeit, any less so.
Is the bearing itself visible on the back and if so does it have SKF stamped (or laser etched?) on it?
I just got a couple of SKF and both had the SKF etched in the front. But the company that supplied one to Rock left their sticker on it, a company I never heard of. I will look later for the name.
I’ve never had an issue with Timken, SKF, and Fag. Perhaps a dud or counterfeit? Judging by the pic, I’d say a dud. It happens.
I can’t remember the specifics, but I remember RA sending me something that I didn’t order. This was back when you could call them. The fastest solution was to buy another and return the original under the second order. Still a pain if you need the vehicle.
I can’t remember the specifics, but I remember RA sending me something that I didn’t order. This was back when you could call them. The fastest solution was to buy another and return the original under the second order. Still a pain if you need the vehicle.
How many miles on this vehicle? Seems odd to be on the 3rd set of hubs for a 2009 sedan, unless you're really putting the miles on.
Even so, that doesn't make a possibly counterfeit, any less so.
Is the bearing itself visible on the back and if so does it have SKF stamped (or laser etched?) on it?
Also, does this bearing replacement require any specific procedures?
For example, the Mk1 Focus rear wheel bearings in the drum require you to turn the wheel 10x in the opposite direction while torquing the nut down
Parts Pro seems to be part of Auto Value, so you should be safe
Last time I replaced this particular hub I went through 3 hubs because I was torquing the spindle nut when the wheel in the air. The 3rd hub I tightened the lug nuts 1st, lowered the vehicle them tightened the spindle nut. Lasted 5 years after that.Also, does this bearing replacement require any specific procedures?
For example, the Mk1 Focus rear wheel bearings in the drum require you to turn the wheel 10x in the opposite direction while torquing the nut down
Parts Pro seems to be part of Auto Value, so you should be safe
Is this an actual documented procedure? I'm not calling you a liar, it just seems odd to me a unit bearing would care if it's loaded or not when torqued, plus it kinda defeats the purpose of time savings on the assembly line....? Am I crazy?
Geez I'd think the fine threads of the stub shaft would readily overcome any circlips and just pull either inner or outer apart.....maybe not