Any nonrepeat Hybrid Buyers?

Yeah back in the early 90's that was good advice.
Not now, I would never purchase anything with a CVT. And subydo really needs to get rid of that boxer and funky transaxle.
If you actually need AWD, may as well get the superior system.
The disdain for CVTs here is pretty widespread, but those who own a vehicle so equipped find them to be just fine.
Finally, the flat four is what makes a Subaru a Subaru. A little bit different from anything else currently available. I believe the flat six has been discontinued.
 
I’m not recommending one over the other as I don’t own a hybrid, but if they don’t drive it much, will the batteries charge properly or have a good lifespan?
Depends. For the first 7 or 8 years, as long as you drive them a few times a month, you'll be fine.

But once you're past 8 years or so and/or there's significant battery degradation, allowing the pack to sit is a recipe for trouble; the cells will discharge at uneven rates and you will get a cell imbalance fault. Sometimes, allowing the car to sit for just 2 weeks unused is enough to cause failure.
 
If you actually need AWD, may as well get the superior system.
The disdain for CVTs here is pretty widespread, but those who own a vehicle so equipped find them to be just fine.
Finally, the flat four is what makes a Subaru a Subaru. A little bit different from anything else currently available. I believe the flat six has been discontinued.
The main problem is with CVT's the manufactures and dealers don't want you fixing them. As they refuse to sell you the parts, and only want to sell you a $4000. plus labor transmission job. That is the biggest issue with CVT's. What can be fixed cheaply is just not wanted by them. Get that problem fixed then I'd believe you. Flat 4 yeah no reason to have 2 heads on a 4 cylinder and all the required cam drive for them. All just extra work and cost.
 
The main problem is with CVT's the manufactures and dealers don't want you fixing them. As they refuse to sell you the parts, and only want to sell you a $4000. plus labor transmission job. That is the biggest issue with CVT's. What can be fixed cheaply is just not wanted by them. Get that problem fixed then I'd believe you. Flat 4 yeah no reason to have 2 heads on a 4 cylinder and all the required cam drive for them. All just extra work and cost.
No reason to build an OHC V-8 or V-6 either, using that logic.
Not too sure that most modern automatics can be fixed easily or cheaply.
I think not.
 
Not too sure that most modern automatics can be fixed easily or cheaply.
I think not.
Sometimes yes and sometimes no. Actually fixing a CVT can be done fairly inexpensive, they are much simpler than say a 10 speed.
Take something like Hondas HRV special, in most cases its the belt that goes bang. The metal is large enough the filter would catch all the debris if any gets that far and just cleaning and new belt could be the simple DIY fix. Instead of the posted 7 and up K prices I've seen posted.
 
Sometimes yes and sometimes no. Actually fixing a CVT can be done fairly inexpensive, they are much simpler than say a 10 speed.
Take something like Hondas HRV special, in most cases its the belt that goes bang. The metal is large enough the filter would catch all the debris if any gets that far and just cleaning and new belt could be the simple DIY fix. Instead of the posted 7 and up K prices I've seen posted.
Have you priced out a 6, 8 or 10 speed auto lately? They're about the same price as a CVT, sometimes more.
 
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Depends. For the first 7 or 8 years, as long as you drive them a few times a month, you'll be fine.

But once you're past 8 years or so and/or there's significant battery degradation, allowing the pack to sit is a recipe for trouble; the cells will discharge at uneven rates and you will get a cell imbalance fault. Sometimes, allowing the car to sit for just 2 weeks unused is enough to cause failure.
My HAH is a May 2018 build, so it's past seven years.
It did recently sit at an airport for a month while we were in Europe and I've seen no issues as of now but this is something I'll have to be alert to going forward.
In the event that the car does need a pack replacement while we own it, the cost is not all that awful at around $3600.00 for a new pack or under three grand for a reman one.
So even if the worst does happen, the fix would not be ruinously costly.
I can also probably find someone willing to play wack a mole and just have the bad cells replaced for much less coin.
 
My HAH is a May 2018 build, so it's past seven years.
It did recently sit at an airport for a month while we were in Europe and I've seen no issues as of now but this is something I'll have to be alert to going forward.
In the event that the car does need a pack replacement while we own it, the cost is not all that awful at around $3600.00 for a new pack or under three grand for a reman one.
So even if the worst does happen, the fix would not be ruinously costly.
I can also probably find someone willing to play wack a mole and just have the bad cells replaced for much less coin.
Best thing you can do is to drive it a lot and keep it out of the heat.
 
My HAH is a May 2018 build, so it's past seven years.
It did recently sit at an airport for a month while we were in Europe and I've seen no issues as of now but this is something I'll have to be alert to going forward.
In the event that the car does need a pack replacement while we own it, the cost is not all that awful at around $3600.00 for a new pack or under three grand for a reman one.
So even if the worst does happen, the fix would not be ruinously costly.
I can also probably find someone willing to play wack a mole and just have the bad cells replaced for much less coin.
I see a lot of HAH salvage battery packs on eBay under $1000, some with low miles. Haven't heard of anybody needing one, though!!
 
Depends. For the first 7 or 8 years, as long as you drive them a few times a month, you'll be fine.

But once you're past 8 years or so and/or there's significant battery degradation, allowing the pack to sit is a recipe for trouble; the cells will discharge at uneven rates and you will get a cell imbalance fault. Sometimes, allowing the car to sit for just 2 weeks unused is enough to cause failureBas
As the original owner of 2014 Prius w 160K I abosolutely agree with this concerning anyone interested in buying a Hybrid (at least Toyota version). I have maintained Prius since day 1 @ 5K OCI (the engine does not burn any oil), engine coolant changes every 50K, inverter coolant change every 50K, ATF WS change every 50K, replaced PCV every 75K along with EGR cooler/valve/intake cleaning, brake system bleed every 3-4 years....but now looking at noticeable decline in the traction battery performance. MPG is down 5MPG from 47 to 40-43 along with more frequent engine running when it should not (to load balance the battery) along with more frequent battery cooling fan running. Keep in mind being in PNW the climate is not severely hot or cold .... Advice is if the Hybrid ownersihp/use case it aligned, get it for 5-7 years and get rid of it. I should have sold my Prius during the pandemic. Prior to Prius, I have owned 09 Corolla which was significantly cheaper to purchase, run and maintain (and higher resale value than Prius at the same mileage). Once I replace the traction battery which I am looking to do when the fault code show up, all the cost savings associated with the lower fuel consumptioin will be wiped out. If the brake system fails that will also cost 3K+.....so far the car has been extremely reliable (so was my Corolla) but I believe all hybrids should be used on a daily basis (with severe case maintenance schedule) and be sold within the battery warranty period.
 
On the Rav4 the motor connector on the rear corrodes. It was a cheeped out design. The cable is like $5K and only covered under the 3 year warranty. Its a potential issue for anywhere with salt. They claim to have fixed the design a couple years in but opinions on whether its better vary, the new design hasn't been around that long. The older generation had no such issue / better connector.

There were some other issues, like early model gas tanks wouldn't fill. The evap would close too soon or something. They did fix that apparently.

There were other issues.

I feel like the original Prius they knew it had to be reliable so they went all in. Now that everyone thinks there bulletproof there living on reputation. IMHO.
You often, very often exaggerate the problems with the Rav4. You ignore the fact, that it has far less problems than its competition, and it is the #1 sold vehicle in the US. All those issues you listed have long ago been fixed. I have a "COVID" era 2021 Rav4 Hybrid, and the only problem I found was that the left rare door does not perfectly align. In summary, the Rav4 has no reputation for problems, nor is it known for problems.
 
I paid $44k for the rav4 prime and got 7500 in tax credits. I traded it and got 47k for it. That is 10.5k net. I bought a rdx for 55k. I traded it for 46k on the c40, and got 7500 tax credit. That has my net at 10k. I then traded the c40, which I got for 63k for 43k. That was hugely painful, and brings my net to about a 10k loss after putting almost 40k miles on those combined vehicles. Not bad.

The rav4 had poor engineering, and terrible "all" wheel drive. It quickly soured me to Toyota in general.
Nope. Most will not believe you ;-). Status flashing is weird...
 
You often, very often exaggerate the problems with the Rav4. You ignore the fact, that it has far less problems than its competition, and it is the #1 sold vehicle in the US. All those issues you listed have long ago been fixed. I have a "COVID" era 2021 Rav4 Hybrid, and the only problem I found was that the left rare door does not perfectly align. In summary, the Rav4 has no reputation for problems, nor is it known for problems.
Please show how I have exaggerated anything in my post? There are Toyota TSB's on everything I pointed out.

I was not comparing RAV4 to others. I was comparing Rav4 hybrid to Rav4 ICE. If you actually read the topic of this thread the OP was deciding between Lexus Hybrid vs Lexus ICE. I simply shared my choice when choosing Toyota Hybrid vs Toyota ICE and how that turned out. You have already said you and your family ONLY drive hybrids. Your comments seem to be nothing more than confirmation bias.

55% of all Rav4's sold last year were ICE. It was a higher percentage in earlier years. I guess others just aren't as smart as you.

I have had no significant issue with my Rav4 ICE model. I also don't care which model others purchase.

Your comments to me on this topic lack any technical argument.
 
To answer the OP's question, I am a former hybrid owner (Volt) and no, I will not be buying another hybrid (or EV) vehicle if I can avoid it.

MazdaRanger05, who suggested hybrid owners sell their car before the (battery) warranty runs out is sage advice.

Hybrids were developed to meet CAFE standards. They are complicated, expensive to manufacture and expensive to repair/maintain. And, they are not nice to their engines; lots of cold starts and they may not run long enough to get up to temperature.
 
You often, very often exaggerate the problems with the Rav4. You ignore the fact, that it has far less problems than its competition, and it is the #1 sold vehicle in the US. All those issues you listed have long ago been fixed. I have a "COVID" era 2021 Rav4 Hybrid, and the only problem I found was that the left rare door does not perfectly align. In summary, the Rav4 has no reputation for problems, nor is it known for problems.
The rav4 roof still leaks. No design change. A quick Google will show plenty of complaints. Yeah, they probably fixed the fire hazard when charging. Yes Toyota added replacing corroded HV cable to warranty coverage.
 
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