Amsoil SSO 12,337 miles 1 year 08 Acura TL 3.2

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Seb

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Jan 27, 2008
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Matawan, NJ
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Ran with EaO filter with FilterMag. Drained from a Fumoto valve. 2nd oil change. First was with Havoline 10-30. First 6 months, It was used as a weekend car. Last 6 months I commuted with it 60 miles each day. Was meaning to change it sooner but I was busy with my new job and so close to the 1 year mark anyway. I drive the car pretty hard since there is alot of traffic everywhere here in NJ. 75% city 25% highway. Blackstone comment is amusing considering Iron and Aluminum per 1k miles is going down in trend, its the 2nd oil change and the engine is pretty new.
 
I will never, EVER understand people with brand-new cars that blow their warranty coverage right to bits by doing an Amsoil extended OCI right off the bat.

I don't care about Amsoil's warranty, or the M-M Act....you spend $30-40k on a car, and then get rid of thousands of miles of warranty coverage. Yes, Acura's are reliable, and you are unlikely to have an engine problem.

But something else goes wrong with car...anything, and the dealership wants to see maintenance recepts to show you 'generally took care of the car'. They see this, and they laugh you out of the dealership....

This is just so stupid!
 
Results look positive. Curious about Manganese....almost never see that sticking around.

The oil can take a beating with city use and a year long drain interval, but you really need to be flushing out the engine. The oil is holding up, but there is so much stuff floating around in there (dissolving lubricants, sand-blasted parts, break-in metals) that it is probably actually increasing the wear on your engine more than you would have if you'd just flush with good Dino oil every 3-5k until 20-30k miles.
 
High silicon, too.

That's not good maintenance practice.

Drop to dino for two OCI's of 3-5k and then go back on synth. But no more than 10k per batch this time!
 
I agree with many of the comments so far, but I must point out one thing that bothers me about the analysis. Essentially whoever is interpreting the results at Blackstone is not taking into account the duration of use of this oil (hours/miles). Their blanket statements about high wear is not appropriate because their universal average is based on 3,200 miles of use. The OP ran 4x that and none of the wear metal rates expressed in ppm/1,000 miles exceeds the universal average wear metal rates. This is another example of just use the data in front of you versus the poor interpretation. If I didn't know any better and just relied on their wording I'd be freaking out and losing sleep at night LOL.
 
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I had some silicon in my uoa also. Where does that come from? And why is it so harmful for your engine? Isn't silicon a lubricant?
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy


But something else goes wrong with car...anything, and the dealership wants to see maintenance recepts to show you 'generally took care of the car'.



That is simply not true. I don't understand how someone so logical fails to get warranty coverage. The dealer nor the manufacturer can deny warranty coverage for doing extended OCI's. Period. Now if somehow he screwed the engine up, sure. It has nothing to do with MM or the Amsoil warranty.

Do I agree with doing a 12K OCI second oil change? No actually I don't.
 
Actually Seb your UOA looks pretty good considering this is the second load of oil in the car. Still breaking in during this interval.

I suggest a couple 4-5 OCI's with oil of your choice, then going with 10-12K intervals.
 
Hey Pablo,

A number of Subaru owners have had denied coverage on their turbo engines due to doing longer oil changes on their engines than the 3750 mile revised Subaru recommendation. Heck, even AMSOIL says they won't back-up their typical claims on these engines in runs over 3750 miles.

So I have to disagree with you that extended drains intervals are not a foundation for a denied warranty claim on a failed powertrain component. It is not what the manufacturer recommends, per the manual.

Bearing in mind that I did nice long extended drains during over 1/2 of my Honda's powertrain warranty :)
 
Addyguy's delivery was perhaps a little pointed, but I won't disagree with his message.

Maybe they shouldn't deny coverage for exceeding the factory recommended OCI, but chances are that they would. I've dealt with dealerships long enough to know that. I just wouldn't want the hassle of arguing about it with them if I had engine problems. Dealing with car problems is a hassle at the best of times, even if you don't have a hurdle like this to overcome.

I also agree with Pablo. I wouldn't do a long OCI in the first couple oil changes as the new engine is naturally shedding break-in wear metals.

In any case, it's an interesting UOA and I thank you for posting it.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Did you read what I wrote and what addyguy wrote? Please re-read.

Hints:

"goes wrong with car...anything"

"if somehow he screwed the engine up, sure"


You are right, I totally mis-read what you were replying too. Sorry.

And yes, I've seen dealership deny warranty work for completely unrelated things (the so called "your whole warranty is voided because you hung a mint air freshener and we only approve cinnamon!")

But your point is totally valid, the dealership is completely out of their warranty bounds when they do that. Though, of course, a dealership can turn down any warranty work AFAIK.
 
Its a little shocking to see someone who visits this site (oil conscious) do this to their brand new car. Good thing you didnt have a cheapo oil in that long. All things considered i dont think that much harm was done to your motor.
 
Originally Posted By: Jdblya
I had some silicon in my uoa also. Where does that come from? And why is it so harmful for your engine? Isn't silicon a lubricant?



It is usually interpreted as sand (being a main constituent of road dirt) sucked in through the intake because of a loose or clogged air filter. If you see chromium and tin elevated along with silicon, it's interpreted as sand blasting of valve materials if I'm not mistaken. Sand blasting engine internals, and having this abrasive material in your oil is harmful for obvious reasons.

Silicon can also show up in UOA's because of engine sealers on new engines or engines that have had work done recently.
 
Pablo, Really now you can not for one minute tell me you believe that is a good second UOA for anything other then a GM V8! I know you sell the stuff but come on look at tin,nickel,aluminum,cromium.........His first 4500 miles should have had the highest levels of these wear metals if it was a wearing in process. The accelerated break in phase does not last long on most new vehicles and some of them do not even generate spiked numbers like this initially. His numbers should be trending down not up even with an increase in the length of OCI if the oil and filter are a good match for the driving cycle things should continue down not up! Even if the amount of wear metal per 1000 miles decease's it is not enough to make up for the total amount of wear in this oil sample! We have thousands of UOA some of them from new engines running factory fill in Honda's and such with 3000-7500 miles on the factory fill that look better then this!

Obviously this particular Amsoil oil and filter combo is not a good match to this vehicles and OCI!I would at the very least if you wanted to stay with 12 month OCI try the Series 3000 5W30 and see if that does better. I am sure you can find a good match with in Amsoils line up they have enough products to chose from but this is not it!

You know when I left this site some time ago I was not impressed with Amsoils 0W30 or M1R or any other 0W30 and I still have not had my WOW button pushed yet. In fact I have not seen an Amsoil 0W30 UOA report that has impressed me yet since I have been back! For the cost of that oil I would expect a lot more then what it is turning in with regards to the numbers I keep seeing! If you do not go with the preferred customer deal and pay some guy $20 for the privilege of buying their brand of oil at a more market realistic price what does this stuff cost now $14-$16 or more per quart with shipping? I am asking because I do not know? At any rate I am not getting it because it sure does not seem to be doing that great of a job compared to products costing drastically less that you do not have to pay for the privalage of purchasing? I am a pretty simple guy I like results and I like them at a decent price point. At least with RLI as expensive as their product was I could see int he UOA how much better of a job it was doing in a lot of direct injection applications so it was producing unique results that could not be had for less in any other product!

Seriously all you guys running Amsoil 0W30 S2K really need to give their S3K 5W30 a try it is so much better then the S2K 0W30 product in all the area's that count like low wear metals,tbn retension etc......If you are going to use Amsoil might as well use their good stuff!

If this was a Mobil-1EP product Pablo would be chewing this report a new you know what and spitting it out!
 
Check out this factory fill with 11,000 miles on it and then look at the Amsoil 0W30 above and tell me that looks good!

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/toyota-oem-oil-in-new-1zz-fe-engine.15219/

I understand they are not the same engine or company it goes to the magnitude of the numbers and how wear metals operate during the initial break in of an engine! Excuses for poor performance seem to be easy to come by though. Break-in is not a subjective function it happens in a manner that is very linear and it does not go up and down and up and down. It starts at one point and trends done never down then up again then down again.

Oh and I came across a few other acura running Amsoil 0W30 and none of them had impresive UOA results either. I think itis safe to say that this is not the best oil for this engine. The OCI is probably not the best either but it might be fine with a different oil we cannot say though until you do it!
 
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JohnBrowning - I haven't seen you around before, but by your post count you've been around the block. Some of your statements are just bizarre though.

1. Per your question, SSO without a member discount is around $10 a quart IIRC. Mine was $9 a quart shipped with a 6-month member discount.

2. The OP's UOA shows aluminum, iron, copper, and lead trending downwards on a PPM/1000 mile basis. And this is considering that there was probably alot of break-in still going on, alot of [censored] in the engine floating around abraiding surfaces, and probably a quart of break-in oil in there still.

3. No doubt the OP should've flushed earlier, and Pablo even said that and supported it. Nonetheless, the oil itself looks just fine (viscosity/TBN/etc.).

4. The guy ran a single oil in his engine for one year straight, after 4500 miles on the engine, and wear metals are trending downwards, with no make-up and the oil is solidly in grade, and yet this is somehow a worrisome report or a report that says this oil is not the best for the engine?

5. Your assertion that wear-in occurs fast and the first UOA should've had higher levels is shown to be false by a number of factors, but focus on Silicon. If wear-in had truly gone way down, Silicon should be at far more normal levels. Instead, it's still elevated. Because the engine is still breaking-in.


SSO is a superb oil that does great in street-driven cars running long oil drains. It's not the value choice necessarily (except for people running 25k intervals and beyond, IMHO). I used in my car with excellent results, including a superb 16.3k mile UOA on my 2006 Civic SI with hard driving. So I'm a supporter, even though I'm no longer using it.

Joe
 
John - you already laid a turd in the other thread (I notice you never responded), so you jump in this one to drop another dump.

I don't even feel like taking the time to address your points because you don't know how to interpret a UOA, and you just make stuff up to match your twisted viewpoint.

The fact that you think this is oil is S2K is hilarious.
 
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