Amsoil- I got my arm twisted into trying it

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Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: ccdhowell
I have run both oils and done UOA analysis of both oils, both in wet clutch quads. I have found the Amsoil to be much more shear stable than the Mobil Racing 4T 10w40. So much so that I can run nearly twice as long on the Amsoil and expect the same amount of shearing I see in a "normal" run for the Mobil 4T. I have quit running the Mobil and will not use it again, it doesn't hold up in my application...your results may vary. Do you plan to do a UOA? Have you done on on the Mobil? The results of UOA would help you decide if the Amsoil was worth the extra dollars. I am the mechanic of a 4 quad race team, the Amsoil was more cost effective for us, especially with PC pricing.


Some folks here won't let facts get in the way.


That's true. While anyone can question the prices, no one can cite anything other than vague complaints about marketing, representation, availability, etc.

The oil is GOOD. period. Use it and you'll see.


I've used it along with Mobil 1, HD360, Brad Penn, and Valvoline VR1. It didn't do anything different than the other oils. What exactly was I supposed to see?
 
Like I said, use a good dino made for motorcycles and you aren't gonna have any oil related problems...
 
Well the shearing issue with M1 might make the AO a better value. I too notice that the M1 shifts like butter when new after 3500 or 4000 miles shifting gets a little crunchy.

If you can go longer before the shifting gets crunchy then it's worth it in the wallet and the butt feel

My engine calls for 8000 oci with Dino, after 1500 miles with dino my shifting is awful even though the oil has got 2/3s of its life left. The M1 goes at least twice as far as dino.

So it might be worth it to pay $12 if I can go twice as far.
 
Originally Posted By: GhostFlame
Well the shearing issue with M1 might make the AO a better value. I too notice that the M1 shifts like butter when new after 3500 or 4000 miles shifting gets a little crunchy.

If you can go longer before the shifting gets crunchy then it's worth it in the wallet and the butt feel

My engine calls for 8000 oci with Dino, after 1500 miles with dino my shifting is awful even though the oil has got 2/3s of its life left. The M1 goes at least twice as far as dino.

So it might be worth it to pay $12 if I can go twice as far.


But how long would you have to leave that oil in to go twice as far? I only average about 3K a year on my bike, and would probably never exceed 5K. Since I won't leave my oil in for more than a year, it's a waste of money and oil to change out synthetic every 3K miles...also, the shifting on my bike has never been as smooth as it is using the Valvoline dino...it was terrible with any of the synthetics...
 
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Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Originally Posted By: FowVay
\If you're riding a Goldwing I'd be willing to bet money you'll never see any benefit to Amsoil or Mobil-1. Those engines are so understessed in their application that cheapy car engine oil would likely be fine.


And what about the transmission? Would "cheapy car engine oil" be fine there as well?

Some of us *do* stress the drivetrains on our Goldwings... on a regular basis.


From my association with people that ride Goldwing bikes and also the Valkyrie bike and who have accumulated in excess of 50,000 miles or more on cheapy auto oil I will reply with a resounding YES, cheapy car engine oil will be fine in a Goldwing.

As with any motorcycle, even if you're using manufacturer specified fluids, let the shift quality be your judge as to when you change your oil.
 
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Although Amsoil base stock is Mobil 1 PAO... its final
formula is 100% PAO whereas Mobil 1 best estimates are 20% to
30% blend PAO...


Mobil 1 Racing 4T may indeed be a blend of their PAO and their more recent Group III+ (VISOM) product, as well as Akylated Naphthalene (Grp V). In theory this would make it a Grp III+/IV/V blend.

Amsoil motorcycle oil may be a Grp IV/V blend. This would all seem to make Amsoil more true to the term "synthetic" under the pre-1997 definition of synthetic.
 
Mobil 1 4T has a pretty low flash point of 212 degrees C versus 230 C for Amsoil MC 10W-40. This points to much better base stocks in the Amsoil product.
 
Look at viscosity index of those two oil, BerndV. Mobil has a greater viscosity index which indicates the oil will have less viscosity change in relation to temperature variance.

Flash point can be affected by additive components which means that base oil choice isn't the sole contributor to flash point. Stating that a 15ºC higher flash point denotes a "much better" base stock for Amsoil is not a accurate statement.
 
Originally Posted By: FowVay
Look at viscosity index of those two oil, BerndV. Mobil has a greater viscosity index which indicates the oil will have less viscosity change in relation to temperature variance.

Flash point can be affected by additive components which means that base oil choice isn't the sole contributor to flash point. Stating that a 15ºC higher flash point denotes a "much better" base stock for Amsoil is not a accurate statement.



Very good observation.
However if i may offer my personal experience with MCV.
I run it in 3 bikes. 1 has the HD Revolution engine, 1 has the DUCATI Testastretta, and the other is the DUCATI Superquadro.
In all 3 engines with UOA's consistantly performed at the recommended OCI's and at half way to the OCI, it has shown since 2005 when MCV was introduced that it maintains viscosity rock solid as a 50 weight at 100c.
Which is in line with the data published by Amsoil in their Motorcycle Oil White Paper.

Now for the interesting bit.
Viscosity at 40c drops from a 20 weight to about the equivalent of a 15 weight by the time it's done 4000-6000 Kms and holds steady up to the oil change.

I conclude that it's not really an important factor if it's a little bit thin at 40c, and it basically ends up a 15w-50 for it's service life. And it still works great in the HD.

Virtually the perfect oil for a DUCATI as a 15w-50 grade, as that's what they specify in the current owners manual as a service refill and top up.

Cheers
 
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I own two Harley's and they both have MCV 20w-50 in the engine and the Severe Gear SVT 75w-110 in the transmission. I keep with the MOCO recommended 5k OCI intervals and have never had any issues and put about 10k a year on them. Last summer for trip to Sturgis ran the straight 60w in the engine of the 2011 bike with no issues. Oh, become a Preferred member and save $$ on the oils.
 
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A higher viscosity index is easily achieved in virgin oil with the addition of VI improvers. These are particularly undesireable in a shared transmission MC engine, where shearing forces will quickly degrade the VI improvers. The primary variable affecting flash point is, in fact, the choice of base oils used in a motor oil, not additives.
 
I have an 85 1100 Shadow with 60k miles on it that shears down every oil I have tried. The shifting becomes so notchy after a 1000mi. that the bike is hard to ride. The best one so far is Amsoil 20-50 motorcycle oil. I don't like the company or the price, but it works. Roger
 
See the AMSOIL difference AMSOIL MC DYNO TEST If you plan on keeping your bike a long time then you should use the best oil. My oil temp dropped from 240-245F to 210-220F when I switched to AMSOIL. Less heat = less friction, less friction = less wear. The proof is in the testing and I can tell you I became an AMSOIL dealer AFTER testing it extensively in my Softail and my cages. Prior to that I always wrote it off as snake oil. It is one of the few things left in this world that actually performs BETTER than their claims.
 
Originally Posted By: TrailBoss
See the AMSOIL difference AMSOIL MC DYNO TEST If you plan on keeping your bike a long time then you should use the best oil. My oil temp dropped from 240-245F to 210-220F when I switched to AMSOIL. Less heat = less friction, less friction = less wear. The proof is in the testing and I can tell you I became an AMSOIL dealer AFTER testing it extensively in my Softail and my cages. Prior to that I always wrote it off as snake oil. It is one of the few things left in this world that actually performs BETTER than their claims.


Oh yes. The infamous reduced temp claim.
I've used every oil out there in my Harley. None of them made it run any cooler,none,and just the claim makes me wonder about an agenda.
Now I like Amsoil. I've got likely 100 quarts of the stuff in various grades but I can honestly say not one oil reduced my operating temps.
 
Oh yes. The infamous reduced temp claim.
I've used every oil out there in my Harley. None of them made it run any cooler,none,and just the claim makes me wonder about an agenda.
Now I like Amsoil. I've got likely 100 quarts of the stuff in various grades but I can honestly say not one oil reduced my operating temps. [/quote]

I don't particularly like being called a liar. especially by some jack [censored] that doesn't know me. It was my actual experience documented by me on two consecutive 90+ degree days, 220 mile ride exactly the same route both days. Harley Syn3 vs AMSOIL MCV. This is what made me believe that AMSOIL might be something other than the snake oil I thought it was.

I Can't help it if you don't like facts but don't spout off about [censored] you don't know!
 
6 posts and cussing people out. You're going to make friends fast here.
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Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
6 posts and cussing people out. You're going to make friends fast here.
happy2.gif



I'm not going to sit idly by while someone questions my integrity. I have worked to hard for it.
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