Amateur Paint Questions

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I've had good luck with 1-2-3 and Ben Moore(in the Regal/Aura levels) and Kelly-Moore covering up some gnarly pink. Primer is there to help the finish coats hide but they also provide more stain-killing and sealing than today's "paint and primers". I like to use Glidden/PPG Gripper in pre-mix grey for deep reds - it works on the same principle as grey primer on cars. Oil-base is still the gold standard for gnarly stains and fire/water damage restoration, I still restoration companies in the Bay Area carry Cover-Stain on their trucks in SF. BAAQMD isn't as strict as SCAQMD in SoCal. We can still get oil-based and shellac primers here. I like BIN, but it's a pain to deal with, you'll get drunk off the fumes but it's good stuff in bathrooms if you need it.

On a recent paint job I've did at the parent's in the room I stay in, I was able to cover over a moderately dark blue with 2 coats of Kelly-Moore, the first coat was in their cheaper "professional" line, I went back and grabbed a can of the "premium" line - Acry-Plex and all the blue was gone. My dad recently redid their master bathroom in a Glidden off-white which I was shocked to see it cover up the Pepto-Bismol pink. He was able to completely hide some deep Behr red and Dunn-Edwards yellow with 2 coats of Ben Moore Regal Select. He likes Ben Moore but wasn't willing to go to Oakland for paint since OSH closed.

Behr ain't bad - it's durable but it has issues with colorfastness over time. I've been happy with PPU. Whites aren't an issue with them, as their Ultra Pure White is a very bright white with lots of TiO2 - which means less colorant is needed for tinting them unlike many tintable whites. A shed I painted with Behr Ultra for the adopted parents looks decent after 12 years, the trim needs to be redone as it did fade. I've seen the local yoga studios using Premium Plus only to have it fade. I would have suggested Ben Moore Natura if the owner asked me.

If you are looking at a "deep" color tinted in a medium/accent or deep/ultra base, go with Ben Moore first. Their Gennex colorants are no where near "universal" colorants. Behr/Home Depot is using BASF colorants, which Kelly-Moore used to use in-store but from what the guys at the Temescal store in Oakland tell me, their accounts came back with complaints of color fade. KM went back to CCA colorants - CCA also supplies the in-store colorants for Ace(stores not selling Ben Moore) and Lowe's which are Valspar customers. SW supplies their own colorants.
 
Originally Posted by chemman
Since you live in California, you might not be able to purchase an oil based primer to use. We used the Zinsser 123 Bulls Eye primer with good luck in a couple of projects, but we were not trying to cover pink, which I know is a pain to cover.


The Critic lives kinda near me in NorCal and oil-based primer/paints are still available. NorCal has less strict air quality rules than SoCal.

Although this does exist, seeing that Dunn-Edwards is based in LA and SCAQMD has strict VOC rules: https://www.dunnedwards.com/product...ealers-and-undercoaters/block-it-premium
 
Lots of good tips. I will add that we've found that Benjamin Moore paints really work well compared to other brands. We've also been partial to the low VOC paint (not primer) which has worked well for us.

We have old chestnut trim, crown moldings, etc... and color on the walls in every room. It's hard to get that transition from color to white (eg for crown moulding or ceiling) perfect. Takes lots of time. Small, high quality brushes have been the key for us. And it's not really fast - but you get better at it with practice.
 
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Lots of good tips. I will add that we've found that Benjamin Moore paints really work well compared to other brands. We've also been partial to the low VOC paint (not primer) which has worked well for us.

We have old chestnut trim, crown moldings, etc... and color on the walls in every room. It's hard to get that transition from color to white (eg for crown moulding or ceiling) perfect. Takes lots of time. Small, high quality brushes have been the key for us. And it's not really fast - but you get better at it with practice.


I'm not a pro, But I gathered some tips over the years. And I still not consider my production perfect, so please bear with me.

Pro painters usually don't use small brushes on regular crown moulding, but the 2.5-3 inches sash.
And good light/working lights, a steady hand, and a very good quality brush (sometimes more expensive than Purdy).
also, good paint that levels or Floetrol/Penetrol.

Me... I'm still not there, So i'm a great taper:
-buy contractor's packs
-tape all room, all around.
-caulk with painter's caulk at separation (wall to crown moulding or crown moulding to ceiling), one wall or one side of the ceiling at a time
-come right away with paint
-while the paint is wet, pull the tape

But we are forgetting the most important attribute of a good painter, which is good preparation.

Hope this helps.
 
Originally Posted by pandus13

also, good paint that levels or Floetrol/Penetrol.
.

that's an old painter's trick someone showed me. It seems to work well in most paints, especially Behr which seems to drag more than Kelly-Moore or Ben Moore. But the pros seem to use it on every outdoor job from what I've noticed. It does help with flow and leveling.

I've also had luck with XIM Paint Extender.

I swear by Purdy brushes, Home Depot doesn't sell them anymore - Sherwin-Williams owns them. I also buy the nicer grade of roller covers and use Wooster's Sherlock frames.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by pandus13
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Lots of good tips. I will add that we've found that Benjamin Moore paints really work well compared to other brands. We've also been partial to the low VOC paint (not primer) which has worked well for us.

We have old chestnut trim, crown moldings, etc... and color on the walls in every room. It's hard to get that transition from color to white (eg for crown moulding or ceiling) perfect. Takes lots of time. Small, high quality brushes have been the key for us. And it's not really fast - but you get better at it with practice.


I'm not a pro, But I gathered some tips over the years. And I still not consider my production perfect, so please bear with me.

Pro painters usually don't use small brushes on regular crown moulding, but the 2.5-3 inches sash.
And good light/working lights, a steady hand, and a very good quality brush (sometimes more expensive than Purdy).
also, good paint that levels or Floetrol/Penetrol.

Me... I'm still not there, So i'm a great taper:
-buy contractor's packs
-tape all room, all around.
-caulk with painter's caulk at separation (wall to crown moulding or crown moulding to ceiling), one wall or one side of the ceiling at a time
-come right away with paint
-while the paint is wet, pull the tape

But we are forgetting the most important attribute of a good painter, which is good preparation.

Hope this helps.


Id agree that for the crown itself one wouldn't use a small brush. I wasn't clear. But to get perfectly straight interface between color and white, I find the small brush on the small edge of trim that meets the wall is the best way.
 
Update:

This does not go as "planned."

The fiancée painted the rooms while I was at work. She painted the rooms without doing any additional primer. On this pink room, she did two coats of Behr Marquee. After the first coat, she said it looked 90% perfect. I only saw the room after the second coat and there was no bleed thru at all. I was surprised.

I appreciated everyone's help.
 
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