Akebono ProACT vs. Raybestos Element3 EHT Pads (pics)

Originally Posted By: wirelessF
The Raybestos seem to be a new product and you might be the first to beta test the product.


The Raybsestos EHT pads have been out a few years. I've installed probably 25-30 sets over the last 2 years with very good results. It's a proven pad. I used to use their Advanced Technology pads but these EHT pads basically replace them and are better.
 
To those of you who've used the EHT's, how's the dust?

The increased braking power is certainly a plus, but I don't need it with my truck
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
To those of you who've used the EHT's, how's the dust?

The increased braking power is certainly a plus, but I don't need it with my truck


Dust is minimal and what little dust there is a light gray. Each vehicle I have used them in have produced less dust than what was on before.
 
Similar question here... I'm basically deciding between the Akebono ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic pads and the Raybestos Enhanced Hybrid Technology.
I've read a lot of favorable reviews with Centric Premium rotors + Akebono pads and was leaning towards that combo but I'm a little concerned about the lack of mounting hardware with the Akes. Does that matter? If I reuse the hardware that's currently mounted will it be sure to fit? Just to be safe which hardware kit should I get? The Raybestos are about half the price and include the hardware.

I've read that metallic pads offer improved braking performance compared to other material types (organic for instance and some say ceramic as well). Wouldn't a hybrid pad, being a "hybrid" between metallic and ceramic, theoretically then have slightly more stopping power than pure ceramic? I suppose maybe it doesn't matter for the daily driver in most conditions.

Also in response to previous posts, according to what I read ceramic pads generally are quieter and produce less dust. I don't know that I would use the amount of dust generation as an indicator of quality though. It seems to me that the pads are designed to be a replaceable component that wears down over time. I'd prefer my pads wear out than my rotors for instance because they're cheaper and easier to replace. Hence if possible I'd like my pads to produce less wear-and-tear on the braking components, i.e. pads that are better for the rotors, all else being equal. Which material would be best for the braking system overall then, ceramic?

Decent overview and comparison of brake types here:
https://www.bridgestonetire.com/tread-and-trend/drivers-ed/ceramic-vs-metallic-brake-pads
 
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I've been using the Raybestos EHT pads since 2015 on my cars and the numerous other cars I maintain (adult kids', friends', etc.). I switched to them based on the "hybid" nature of the pads, hoping to address a problem that I was seeng on all of these cars since I switched to ceramics from semi-metallics. It seems I was going through rotors a lot more than I should due to the back side (piston side) deteriorating. The braking surface gradually became a thin band more or less in the center, with a thick and irregular transfer layer, and a lot of corrosion and rust-jacking. The outer side of the rotors weren't anywhere near as bad, but still had a somewhat splotchy surface appearance. This was happening on my Mazda 3, Dodge Caravan, Toyota Camry and Corolla, Ford Escape, etc. Rear brakes seemed to have the problem even worse than the fronts. I suffer the corrosive winters in a northern salt-belt climate, which may factor in somehow.

I was using name-brand pads and rotors, frequently Raybestos Quiet Stop and Advanced Technology, Brembo, Centric, Axxis, and Wagner. I don't recall exactly which parts/combinations exhibited the problem most, but it was very frequent and consistent. I also had the problem on OEM rotors, but since I buy my cars used, and don't buy OEM brake parts, that's limited experience. I keep my calipers in very good condition, thoroughly cleaning and lubing all active surfaces, slide pins, etc. every time I replaced pads, and quite often between pad changes if I have the calipers off for other work. I was NOT having problems with slides binding - the caliper and brackets were freely moving. I flush brake fluid very often, and rebuild or replace calipers at this slightest hint of a problem (e.g. torn boots, grooved bracket pad support surfaces). I pay attention to rotor runout, always listening for rubbing, and frequently measuring and indexing the rotors to minimize runout. For a while I tried swapping the ceramic pads for semi-mets for a few hundred or thousand miles, before the rotors got too ugly, then put the ceramics back in. That helped clean up the rotors for a while, but didn't stop the problem from recurring when running ceramics again. I drive fairly aggressively, so use the brakes hard and often, as does my wife.

I was using a lot of the Raybestos parts when a lot of this was going on, and was about to abandon Raybestos and try something else. My Mazda 3 got new rotors and reman calipers at the last pad change. I forget what pads I installed (that particular order in my RockAuto order history doesn't display), but I was usually using Raybestos Quiet Stop and Advanced Technology around that time). Later that year (probably >5K but
After a few hundred miles on the semi-mets the rotors looked good. I lightly sanded the rotors by hand with garnet sandpaper, washed with soap and water, then installed the new EHTs.

Result - From my experience so far, this has completely solved my problem. I haven't seen any evidence of the back-side deterioration, throughout the life of the pad, or to date on my second set. So far, same for the sets I installed on the Caravan, Ford Escape, or Subaru Outback. I like their performance characteristics, primarily because I just don't think about my brakes anymore - they stop nicely, never faded, I don't notice any difference when wet or cold (down to -20degF anyway). Some brake dust is there, but no more than anything else I've tried, not real dark, and relatively easy to clean. I only have any squeal at all, and that's infrequent, on one car, in reverse, in the morning. (Regarding squeal, other than that, I haven't had ANY other car with brake squeal since switching to ceramics and paying attention to installation practices.) However, I standing outside the car or with the windows open and at slow speed, the EHTs make a bit more noise when working than the other pure ceramics I used. It's not high-pitched or irritating at all (especially since I just imagine the noise scraping the rotors clean!) I don't yet have enough experience with these to comment on rotor wear - looking at them I get the sense that they are wearing a bit more and perhaps grooving a bit more, though I haven't seen much of a ridge at the edges of the wear surface. I don't see a distinct transfer layer like I could with the regular "pure" ceramic pads. Even if it eats the rotors a bit more, my rotor lifetime will definitely increase since I'm not throwing them away prematurely due to the back-side damage.

So as far as I'm concerned, I'm sticking with them for the foreseeable future. Maybe someday someone will come up with something better, but for now I'm perfectly happy.

But I'm still curious why I haven't seen anyone else commenting on this issue. I was initally thinking that I was focusing too much on pads and not enough on rotors, but since these pads seem to be working well with my old/similar rotors, I'm not sure the rotors are the issue. Has anyone else experienced the back-side corrosion as regularly as I have? And has anyone who has seen this problem tried the EHTs and had it resolved with the EHT's (or not)? Any other ideas?
 
I might have seen it, but not thought much of it. I have seen pad delamination, and certainly if the rotor gets old enough, the braking surface gets lifted as rust builds under the braking surface. Once or twice I've hammered it off and motored on, but realisitically they were shot. These days 5 years is about all I get from pads and rotors; if the pads aren't worn down, then delamin is noticed on one pad. And the rotors as a rule look kinda ugly. Not worn down but lots of grooves.

If you are getting more inner pad wear try busting apart the system at least once a year and regreasing the pad ears. I do that--well I aim for twice a year but I think spring is the only time it's "required". I make sure the pads can slide freely before put on grease, and grease the ears on assembly. The Critic recommended Honda M77 for grease, and I'm finding it works well enough. Just don't do what I did: I left the cap off, and the tube is dried out, and now it's a pain to squeeze out.
 
My vote also goes to the EHT's. I've got them on my vehicles now and have installed probably 10-15 sets on other people's vehicles all with great results. Before this, my go to pad was Raybestos Advanced Technology which as pretty much been discontinued and replaced by the EHT's.
 
Akebono has been my go-to but I'd love to see who can surpass them. They have not been infallible. They were wholly inadequate in the 2006 Tundra (four pot calipers) and were not as strong in the volvos we've owned. They were oem for the late 2000s jeep WK, worked great in our chrysler minivan and have been excellent in all of the honda/acura vehicles I've installed them in. For the volvos and toyota, I HAD to move to something else in the toyota, and favored hawks in the volvos.

I'd love to hear how the raybestos pads work. Most rotor changes I've done have been with raybestos AT rotors, and though 2 of the 6 i've done had flaws, the other four have been more precise than the top of the line offerings at autozone. (I'm always torn, go local AZ because returns are easy, or go raybestos via amazon where the prices compete).

-m
 
Originally Posted by GMBoy
My vote also goes to the EHT's. I've got them on my vehicles now and have installed probably 10-15 sets on other people's vehicles all with great results. Before this, my go to pad was Raybestos Advanced Technology which as pretty much been discontinued and replaced by the EHT's.

GMBoy, I was wondering if the newer sets of EHT's
You've seen are still made in the USA ?
I've been a big fan of the Akebono's in the past, but haven't used them lately due to cost. Lately I've been installing the Wagner Quick stop line. I've been very happy with the results in the last 8-10 brake jobs I've done for friends and customers. But it seems that they could be dusting more than I'm use to. However my driving habits have changed and I'm doing almost 5k a month now so that may be it. Changed the fronts on my Sonata in June and have almost 20k on them. They are about half worn, and bite awesome. No noise or fade issues, and I drive pretty aggressively. But I want to try the EHT's. My rears are due soon, so I think I'll try them, and report back.
 
Wow, thanks to the guys who went back to update this topic with new experiences.
thumbsup2.gif


I remember finding this then-dormant thread back in February when trying to research the EHT's knowing i would need to change front pads before the winter.

Anyway at the time I found it difficult to source EHT's here in the Toronto area, and I came across a set of ProAct 815's for $40 on Kijiji from a guy who's car croaked before he had a chance to install them, so I went with that and will be getting them on next week. But I'll definitely keep an eye out for EHT's for the next time I need to get brakes for somebody.
 
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Akebono is tough to beat, it's a quality product, and the feel of the brakes is fantastic. In the northeast the rotors tend to rust out before the pads wear out in many cases anyways, that has been my frustration.
 
Originally Posted by homeyclaus
Akebono is tough to beat, it's a quality product, and the feel of the brakes is fantastic. In the northeast the rotors tend to rust out before the pads wear out in many cases anyways, that has been my frustration.


Coated rotors are awesome
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Are the EHT's quiet? I normally use Napa Adaptive Ones since they have been noise free. I have used Raybestos brakes several years ago, and they were the best. So, I am thinking about trying them again since they are also much less expensive than the Napa. Not many people talk about noise, but I cant stand brake squeal. The worst ones that I have ever had were Wagner ThermaQuiet. People could here me coming from a mile away.
 
I put raybestos eht3 front and back on my wife terrain. When I did I used heavy duty ACDelco rotors, new struts and tires. I replace struts and shocks at 50k no matter what. Her car is due. As for th brakes they still have life car stops on a dime and will give you change back. Only issue is if it has need Raining or snowi g the day before and the car sits outside over night. There is a noise like rust on the rotors and getting worked off. Couple of stops and all is quit and smooth. I will use these brake in the future. Got them on rockauto figured I would try something new.
 
I have a pair of the EHT3 sitting on my shelf now for my daughters Scion.
Original OEM pads on it are still OK, but plan on changing them out at 60,000 miles (just over 51,000 on it now).

I debated the Akebono vs EHT for quite a while after first seeing this thread.
Just decided on the EHT, since I could get both front and rear pads for less than just the rears in Akebono
 
Depends on the reason why you change the pads. If it is because you are tired of noise you probably want the ProAct, but if you just want more stopping power the EHT here wins for sure. I'd probably put the ProAct in a relative's car and EHT for my own car.
 
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