Air Compressor Oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jun 9, 2002
Messages
718
Location
Central Texas
I have a small single stage air compressor that calls for SAE 20 or 30 non-detergent motor oil changed twice a year. Sump capacity 12 oz. with maybe 200 hrs per year actual running time.

The one time I've changed the lube a small amount of water was present. But no emulsification was seen. Using SAE 30 non-detergent motor oil.

Will I gain anything by using one of the specialty synthetic compressor lubes, motor oil or putting additives in the non-detergent oil.
 
If you ran that air compressor all day every day, a special air compressor oil would be beneficial. For your usage, the non-detergent oil seems to be working well. Stick with it.

If you wanted an excellent oil, ask Tim Mills if he could order and sell you a sample pint of Schaeffer's #254 HTC synthetic blend hydraulic-turbine-compressor oil in ISO viscosity grade 100 (SAE 30)--get a couple of pints. That would work very well in that compressor in your Texas heat.


Ken

[ July 13, 2003, 11:18 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
 
Bobster, there are at least 2-3 other threads on compressor oils.

Gonna move them to this new subsection?
confused.gif
 
I haven't had the time to search for them but as I run across topics that fit better else where, I'll move em in. Anyone that see's topics that fit better else where, let us know as all the help is appreciated.
bob
 
quote:

Originally posted by Bror Jace:
Bobster, there are at least 2-3 other threads on compressor oils.

Gonna move them to this new subsection?
confused.gif


Bror ,I chased 'em over to where dey belong partner.

Mark
 
When I lived in Illinois I had a problem with the oil in my compressor thickening up too much in cold weather and tripping the breaker because it became too hard to turn, so I put Mobil 1 0w30 in and it solved the problem. Now that I've moved to Arizona, it still gets chilly in the garage in Janurary and I've kept using it with no problems. I don't have all that many hours on it, but its about 15 years old. Bill T.
 
"Will I gain anything by using one of the specialty synthetic compressor lubes, motor oil or putting additives in the non-detergent oil."


One oil I have good luck with in recip compressors is the Amsoil reciprocating compressor oils.

I would not add any extra additives to any of the oils.

[ September 30, 2003, 04:51 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
I have 2 air compressors. One of them is an ancient sears roebuck model, and the other is a newer CH. The CH calls for compressor oil, or mobil 1 10w30. Go figure.
 
quote:

Originally posted by sbc350gearhead:
I have 2 air compressors. One of them is an ancient sears roebuck model, and the other is a newer CH. The CH calls for compressor oil, or mobil 1 10w30. Go figure.

I noticed this too when I was on the CH site buying some parts. I'm going to try the M1 when I get my rebuild done. Somehow it seems like overkill in a 2hp compressor but I do keep it around so why not...
 
I'm very happy with Redline MTL in my 115V single stage two cylinder compressor. Even when sandblasting and forcing the compressor to run 100% duty cycle I never here the piston slap noise with MTL that I used to get with dino 30W.

The mfg. recommendation is 30W non detergent motor oil.

John
 
quote:

Originally posted by Neil Womack:
I have a small single stage air compressor that calls for SAE 20 or 30 non-detergent motor oil changed twice a year. Sump capacity 12 oz. with maybe 200 hrs per year actual running time.

Will I gain anything by using one of the specialty synthetic compressor lubes, motor oil or putting additives in the non-detergent oil.


I just tested my Hitachi 2hp single stage compressors amp draw on some relatively fresh Hitachi compressor oil (less than an hour) and then with some Amsoil ISO-100 SAE 40 compressor oil tonight. Ambient temperature around 91F.

Compressor specs at 14.5 amp draw.

Results are as follows:

Hitachi oil 19210

14.9 amp draw after running it to get it hot. This was maximum draw at around the end of filling tanks to 120 psi.

Amsoil ISO 100

14.1 amp draw after a few minutes of running to let it get worked around. I could see the draw dropping as it ran. After about 3 refills of the tanks it stopped dropping and stabilized at around 14.0 to 14.1 amps.


Looks like a savings of .8 amps x 120 volts = 96 watts/hour. Not large but less work for the electric motor and hopefully less friction will mean longer life for the compressor as well.

I didn't bring my temperature probe so I didn't get any before and after temperature readings.

I hope others find this informative and also repeat the experiment for themselves.

[ October 04, 2004, 12:50 AM: Message edited by: wulimaster ]
 
wulimaster:

After reading your test results and knowing the benefits of synthetic verses conventional oils, I've just ordered 2 quarts of Amsoil ISO 100 for the used IR 5hp two stage compressor I just purchased. I was kinda on the fence concerning what oil to go with in a used compressor and not knowing how it has been treated.......but the power savings alone will be worth the little money I just spent on the new oil.

Thanks for taking the time to post your results.
 
quote:

Originally posted by alloy:
wulimaster:

Thanks for taking the time to post your results.


You are welcome. I just wish I had brought the temperature probe so I would have had temperature readings also. Oh well, If I decide to purchase some more Hitachi oil just for the temperature test I'll post it here as well.
 
wulimaster:

I look forward to any more test results you happen to come up with. I'm biulding a sand blasting cabinet and a pressure blaster to use on it, so any power savings would be a geat help to me.

I also had a question if you have the time to answer it.

I have a 5hp 2 stage compressor I purchased and was wondering if your power savings would double for a 220 volt motor? I'm assuming your readings were taken on a 110 volt motor.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom