Advice on first oil change and beyond - Mazda CX-5 2.5 N/A

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Aug 8, 2025
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Hello all,

I've been an occasional reader on BITOG, but after picking up a new CX-5 N/A 2.5L (no cylinder deactivation), I have found myself with some questions I'm hoping to get some advice on. My previous vehicle was a Mazda 3 with the 2.0L N/A SkyActiv. Bought used but did 7,000km (~4350mi) average OCIs (shortest OCI usually around 6000km, longest being 8300km) with OEM filter and Kirkland Synthetic 0W-20. I have never conducted a UOA on this vehicle but from when I purchased used to 300,000km, it never burnt oil and ran smooth on the Kirkland oil (my subjective opinion)

From what I understand, the Mazda OEM oil has high moly content in it. Local dealership uses bulk oil and does not pour from the 1qt jugs but not sure if the bulk oil they have is specially formulated for Mazda (to replicate the 1qt jugs). Cost is ~$30 cad / 1qt of Mazda Genuine 0W-20 - far too expensive for me. I plan to use OEM filters, and maintain the 7,000km OCI as I have been doing - hoping to get to 300k KM with this one as well...Based on searching on BITOG and elsewhere, I have narrowed some options to:
- Castrol Edge EP 0W-20 (gold container)
- Mobil1 EP 0W-20 (AFE or ESP is also available, but I'm a bit confused on all the differences)
- Stick with the Kirkland 0W-20

Another friend with a newer 3 uses Liqui Moly Molygen New Generation 0W-20 but this is about double the price of Castrol or Mobil, and about 4x the price of the Kirkland, so I would try to avoid this unless absolutely necessary.

Aside from suggestions on which oil to use, few questions:
- Should I be concerned about moly content? Is it necessary? Or am I overthinking this and can stick to Kirkland.
- Do I need to use Mazda OEM for my first OC, or can I switch at that point? Planning to do the first at 1500KM, then 6500-7000KM OCI after that.

Thank you
 
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I assume, possibly incorrectly, you're in Canada? If so, 0W-20 is fine. Don't get wrapped around the Axle on Moly content. Modern oils have plenty, typically.

What year is the vehicle? I have a 2024, but use 5W-30 in it. At 5-7KM, Kirkland would be fine. These SkyActive engines are pretty easy on oil. If you were doing 10KM OCI, maybe step up to one of the others you mentioned.

OEM filters are fine. I use them, also use the Premium Guard and variants, like Pentius.
 
Local dealership uses bulk oil and does not pour from the 1qt jugs but not sure if the bulk oil they have is specially formulated for Mazda (to replicate the 1qt jugs).

Highly unlikely. My observation has been that dealerships can and do use the cheapest bulk oil they can acquire that meets manufacture specifications. And there's nothing wrong with that.
 
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I assume, possibly incorrectly, you're in Canada? If so, 0W-20 is fine. Don't get wrapped around the Axle on Moly content. Modern oils have plenty, typically.

What year is the vehicle? I have a 2024, but use 5W-30 in it. At 5-7KM, Kirkland would be fine. These SkyActive engines are pretty easy on oil. If you were doing 10KM OCI, maybe step up to one of the others you mentioned.

OEM filters are fine. I use them, also use the Premium Guard and variants, like Pentius.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, you are correct, it is a Canadian vehicle ('25). I believe the manual just states 0W-20, with no API spec requirement that I can see for the 2.5L non-turbo variant.
 
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My dealer has two grades of oil for dealer oil changes. I got Mobil 1 put in at first oil change. Not sure what the 'no name' bulk is though.
I use Fram 7317, the oversize filter for all my DIY changes.
My 2¢.
 
I like to give opinions, so here is mine. The best you can do out of those choices is the Mobil 1 ESP 0w-20. It will keep your engine cleaner than the other choices you show, however the Castrol is no slouch either. Change your oil and filter every 6 months or 5000 miles (8000km) maximum, whichever comes first. There, that is my opinion. Take Care.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-esp-x2-0w-20
I wonder if the use of European formula oils even in the specified grade would create a warranty issue.
 
Hello all,

I've been an occasional reader on BITOG, but after picking up a new CX-5 N/A 2.5L (no cylinder deactivation), I have found myself with some questions I'm hoping to get some advice on. My previous vehicle was a Mazda 3 with the 2.0L N/A SkyActiv. Bought used but did 7,000km (~4350mi) average OCIs (shortest OCI usually around 6000km, longest being 8300km) with OEM filter and Kirkland Synthetic 0W-20. I have never conducted a UOA on this vehicle but from when I purchased used to 300,000km, it never burnt oil and ran smooth on the Kirkland oil (my subjective opinion)

From what I understand, the Mazda OEM oil has high moly content in it. Local dealership uses bulk oil and does not pour from the 1qt jugs but not sure if the bulk oil they have is specially formulated for Mazda (to replicate the 1qt jugs). Cost is ~$30 cad / 1qt of Mazda Genuine 0W-20 - far too expensive for me. I plan to use OEM filters, and maintain the 7,000km OCI as I have been doing - hoping to get to 300k KM with this one as well...Based on searching on BITOG and elsewhere, I have narrowed some options to:
- Castrol Edge EP 0W-20 (gold container)
- Mobil1 EP 0W-20 (AFE or ESP is also available, but I'm a bit confused on all the differences)
- Stick with the Kirkland 0W-20

Another friend with a newer 3 uses Liqui Moly Molygen New Generation 0W-20 but this is about double the price of Castrol or Mobil, and about 4x the price of the Kirkland, so I would try to avoid this unless absolutely necessary.

Aside from suggestions on which oil to use, few questions:
- Should I be concerned about moly content? Is it necessary? Or am I overthinking this and can stick to Kirkland.
- Do I need to use Mazda OEM for my first OC, or can I switch at that point? Planning to do the first at 1500KM, then 6500-7000KM OCI after that.

Thank you
Start here: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-oe-0w-20-100-synthetic-motor-oil-oez/?zo=515729

Then after a couple OCI's, change to this: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-signature-series-0w-20-100-synthetic-motor-oil-asm/?zo=515729

Thanks!
 
The Mobil ESP is API SP rated too; it is everything SP but stronger. It has all it needs for Mazda warranty issues, it meets Mazda standards for 2025 warranty.
I'm still an in-depth oil novice, but I wonder how the ESP 0W-20 is with shearing, being that it is 7.9 Cst @ 100C. I wonder how well that viscosity holds up with a 5K mile OCI and relatively short but M-F trips once per day with some highway at least once or twice per month. That might have been saying the same thing twice, please forgive me.
 
I would use 0w-20 extended performance.
That's what we run in my daughters 4 runner with 5-7k oil changes.
 
I'm still an in-depth oil novice, but I wonder how the ESP 0W-20 is with shearing, being that it is 7.9 Cst @ 100C. I wonder how well that viscosity holds up with a 5K mile OCI and relatively short but M-F trips once per day with some highway at least once or twice per month. That might have been saying the same thing twice, please forgive me.
It carries MB 229.71. A long drain approval for a more demanding engine.
 
Everyone is using euro 5w30 oils now, but any will do. Your car says it can use it no problem, and most likely is what they used in Japan when they built it
 
Hello all,
...

Aside from suggestions on which oil to use, few questions:
- Should I be concerned about moly content? Is it necessary? Or am I overthinking this and can stick to Kirkland.
- Do I need to use Mazda OEM for my first OC, or can I switch at that point? Planning to do the first at 1500KM, then 6500-7000KM OCI after that.

Thank you
No need to worry about Moly content. The proof of the pudding is in the eating. Performance, not recipe is what matters. You can stick to kirkland on shorter OCIs and be fine. But honestly the cost per mile of premium oil is a tiny fraction of what you'd spend on fuel or tires, and I think the tiny savings of using generic oils is ill-advised.

You don't need to stick to Mazda OEM anything. A short first OCI is always a good idea IMO. Get whatever mfg residue might be present out of there.

If you want to stay with 0w-20, I'd look for an oil with VW 508.00/509.00 approval as well as MB229.71. 508/509 is a pretty demanding spec, with oxidation requirements even higher than MB 229.5 and all A3/B4 oils. VW wants a 508/509 oil to last up to 30,000km oil drains!

So if you are dead set on a 0w-20, I think a VW 508/509 oil on 6k-7k km OCIs will be quite sufficient.

So, this would put you into oils like M1 0w-20 ESP X2 or Castro Edge 0w-20 LL IV or PP Euro L 0w-20
~~~~

Personally, I'd be running a mid-saps 504/00/507.00 oil in 0w-30 instead of the 508.509 low SAPs oils in 0w-20, but there's an argument to make for 508/509 because almost all these oils are PAO/ester because you simply cannot meet the specs with much group 3 or GTL. They lean more on the base oils because they cannot additize their way to performance. 508/509 might actually therefore outperform in piston cleanliness compared to the cheapest 504/507 oils. So if you run a 504/507 oil, stick with a 0w instead of a 5w to get the better base stocks.
 
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I just bought my ninth mazda yesterday. A new Carbon Edition Mazda3 with AWD. My last five mazdas received a diet of Quaker State Full Synthetic (as will the new 3). It's known for having a little healthier dose of moly. It's also reasonably priced at Walmart. I will do a "feel good" change at 1500miles on the new 3 followed by a change at 5K miles and then every 5K miles thereafter. There has been no engine related issues with any of my mazdas (knocking on wood)!
 
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