Advanced Auto Parts Brand oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
By 2k should be darkening.

I'm not sure I'd agree with it. It all depends on a particular oil and how the chemicals in it react to heat.



Thats cool. I disagree with you as well. Its all about cleaning additives and suspension properties. Cheap oils are cheap because they lack expensive additives.


Don't tell my vehicles that! Both are filled with Formula Shell that I bought for 2.29 a qt.

Sorry dude..
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
By 2k should be darkening.

I'm not sure I'd agree with it. It all depends on a particular oil and how the chemicals in it react to heat.



Thats cool. I disagree with you as well. Its all about cleaning additives and suspension properties. Cheap oils are cheap because they lack expensive additives.

The rate of darkening is also dependent on how much blow-by and smog the engine produces.

A nice new engine that produces low smog upstream of the exhaust system will darken oil slowly.
 
Originally Posted By: Caliberguy

I plan to go until August with this oil and filter.


As long as the same driving routine is used, I'd go to at least 3K mi no matter what the time...

I'm NOT a fan of the Purolator Classic, have had knocking issues at cold start with one of those on a 4.6L Ford Mod motor, never had a problem with their Pure One or Motorcraft...
 
Advance's oil is by WPP, like their ATF. The oil should be just as good as Supertech or Peak.
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Caliberguy

I plan to go until August with this oil and filter.


As long as the same driving routine is used, I'd go to at least 3K mi no matter what the time...

I'm NOT a fan of the Purolator Classic, have had knocking issues at cold start with one of those on a 4.6L Ford Mod motor, never had a problem with their Pure One or Motorcraft...




Gulp...running my first Walmart classic for a couple of weeks. Its scary thin, like a beating heart as the oil runs through it. I may go back to the XG...but it seems ok, dont hear anything..
 
Some engines need the silicone anti drain back valves and some dont.

I run Motorcaft if I can get one for the engine in question if I need the Silicone Valve if not Purolator Classic has always worked fine for under 10,000 mile intervals.

24 months or 3000 miles wont hurt a thing with an API SN / GF5 Oil and the filters have to last 10,000 mile intervals for the cars that require it. They dont turn into pumpkins at 1500 miles because its been 366 days.

PS Most of us obsess to much. A lot of todays cars would make it 300,000 miles on 10,000 mile OCI of Supertech and Fram OCOD.
 
Last edited:
Just change it once a year or so if its really not used that much and be done with it.

Short of condensation building up in the oil from temperature changes while its sitting I wouldn't worry. Oil sat underground for millions of years, then in the store, then in your car...its not gonna go bad on you.
 
Last edited:
I always thought that conventional oils should be changed every 6 months, regardless of miles driven. Is this wrong?
 
i'm using PEAK in my dad's 1991 mercury colony park and must say I like it alot as well. As long as it's SAE certified, I buy it.
The purolator classics seem well built, good value. Napa/wix/carquest also is a good filter
 
This is most likely a 2.2l Ecotec. The oil filter is in the block and is a cartridge style filter, replacing it requires no additional make up oil beyond a few ounces. This engine is also pretty easy on oil, the OP will be fine using this oil until August. I doubt the OLM is even close to triggering an oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: Zako2
I always thought that conventional oils should be changed every 6 months, regardless of miles driven. Is this wrong?

It depends. There is no such golden rule. Just like there is no rule that oil needs to be changed every 3K miles.
 
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
This is most likely a 2.2l Ecotec. The oil filter is in the block and is a cartridge style filter, replacing it requires no additional make up oil beyond a few ounces. This engine is also pretty easy on oil, the OP will be fine using this oil until August. I doubt the OLM is even close to triggering an oil change.

Not an ecotec bud, its a dodge and more than likely has the world engine that chrysler and hyundai use. Ecotec is GM
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Zako2
I always thought that conventional oils should be changed every 6 months, regardless of miles driven. Is this wrong?

It depends. There is no such golden rule. Just like there is no rule that oil needs to be changed every 3K miles.
There exist no "conventional" PCMO oil anymore. Just as there is no REAL synthetic either - except for boutique oils and some of Pablos's good stuff
smile.gif
They are all majority "pseudo-synthetic" group II and III with a splash of this and that. That is Dino oil my friends. Pretty soon if not now it'll be dino farts with GTL.
 
Originally Posted By: Caliberguy
synthetic is a marketing scam. i use regular dino oil

If you are not doing extended drain intervals, probably true. Otherwise 'not'

To the OP..Go til Aug 2013 if you want.
 
With your driving style the oil life should be good. I'd consider a change at 6k miles or one year just to be sure.

Switch to a synth and you could go much farther...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

tiger862
Mixing oil
Replies
8
Views
889
ATex7239
S
Mid-OCI Filter Change w/HPL Oil
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
tired
F
Recommendations for Ford 4.6 32v DOHC that sat for 5 years.
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
Frank_T
E
  • Question Question
Chevron advice for an old EJ201 subaru
Replies
4
Views
682
ripcord
tired
Help with recommendation for motor oil for Toyota and Nissan daily drivers
2 3
Replies
55
Views
6K
Linctex
Back
Top Bottom