adding gfci outlet in crawlspace

[gasman556]

I assume you don't have standing water nor humidity higher than 50% in the crawlspace.

I don't think you need any kind of special box.

My HVAC air handler is in my crawlspace. No problems.

This is my situation too.

In my mind I'm envisioning something like a mobile home small water heater.

Still need pics. Curious minds want to see the installation.

Probably similar to the trailer hot water heater. I’ll look for a link to post.

How far is the hot water tank from the lamp? The absolute easiest way to do this is the replace the lamp holder with one that has a receptacle:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton..._-301667438-_-1-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a

If you're using the Corro-Protect, the power supply cord length is 12':

https://www.corroprotec.com/product/water-heater-anode-rod/#

No need for GFCI IMO. Corro-Protect also doesn't specify one

I thought about this. But don’t want to have any issues by NOT using the GFCI.

It's not over doing it. The gfi could trip for no reason and you'll never know it until the tank starts leaking.

I think you're thinking of something different than what I'm aiming for with my application. GFCI presence or not shouldn't have any bearing on the tank leaking.

 

[gasman556]

Still need pics. Curious minds want to see the installation.

the hot water heater is similar to this:
https://www.ferguson.com/product/st...-water-heater-sen650dolbs452alum/7027179.html

 

[doitmyself]

Still need pics. Curious minds want to see the installation

Or, did you need his specific situation?

The OP states he wants a GFCI outlet near the water heater to plug in the anode. He is NOT installing the GFCI on the hardwired water heater. Could you just convert that light box to a GFCI recepticle and use a portable plug-in or battery light down there?? It's not like it is an oft visited living space.

 

[gasman556]

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Or, did you need his specific situation?

The OP states he wants a GFCI outlet near the water heater to plug in the anode. He is NOT installing the GFCI on the hardwired water heater. Could you just convert that light box to a GFCI recepticle and use a portable plug in or battery light down there?? It's not like it is an oft visited living space.

The dual HW heater setup in that pic is interesting. I wonder if they're plumbed in series?

I'd rather not convert the light box to an outlet as it's in a series of lights wired to one switch. Best I can tell (unconfirmed as of yet), there's one "hot" lead going in and two others coming off. I don't know if they used this particular light box as a junction box or not (weird if so), but I will have a better idea when my noncontact voltage tester arrives.

 

[doitmyself]

I'm not an electrician and I don't know if this is relevant. We just had the old part of our 1950's home upgraded to GFCI receptacles and they did NOT change our 2-wire romex. They said you can install a GFCI on 2-wire circuits, they work, but a sticker has to be placed on the cover that states "not grounded". Codes vary regionally.

 

[oil pan 4]

This is my situation too.



Probably similar to the trailer hot water heater. I’ll look for a link to post.



I thought about this. But don’t want to have any issues by NOT using the GFCI.


I think you're thinking of something different than what I'm aiming for with my application. GFCI presence or not shouldn't have any bearing on the tank leaking.

What do you think will happen when the gfi trips and the powered anode goes a year or more with no power?
The tank will rapidly start rusting without anode protection.
Ideally the gfi presence shouldn't have anything to do with the function of the anode.
Gfi presence shouldn't have effected the operation of my freezer until it tripped for no reason and I smelled something funny a week later....

 

[KevinMalone]

The dual HW heater setup in that pic is interesting. I wonder if they're plumbed in series?

I'd rather not convert the light box to an outlet as it's in a series of lights wired to one switch. Best I can tell (unconfirmed as of yet), there's one "hot" lead going in and two others coming off. I don't know if they used this particular light box as a junction box or not (weird if so), but I will have a better idea when my noncontact voltage tester arrives.

We can't answer this until you pull the light fixture and show a photo of how it is wired. The hots in the light fixture would normally be switched, and so would the outlet you plan to branch off of the light fixture's wiring. If this is the case, then you'd have to branch off the line feed at the switch.

However, once in a while I do see the line feed the light fixture box with a leg branched off to the switch. If this is the case, then simply branch off the line feed to your receptacle of choice. You don't need a GFCI and having one may introduce nuisances in the future with no added benefit.

Regardless, Wago 221 lever nuts will make your life a lot easier

 

[Delta]

I know I'm late to the party, but if it were me, I'd put the GFCI outlet right near the entrance of the crawspace opening and then take a wire from the load side of the GFCI to an outlet near the WH for your anode rod. That outlet will be protected and this way if it trips you don't have to get a flashlight and crawl over there to reset it if it nuisance trips; it's right there easy reach.

 

[gasman556]

I know I'm late to the party, but if it were me, I'd put the GFCI outlet right near the entrance of the crawspace opening and then take a wire from the load side of the GFCI to an outlet near the WH for your anode rod. That outlet will be protected and this way if it trips you don't have to get a flashlight and crawl over there to reset it if it nuisance trips; it's right there easy reach.

This is a solid play. Adds SOME additional cost, but a good plan.

Any tips for running Romex along the floor joists? I am trying to make it look as neat and clean as possible given unfinished crawlspace.

 

[Delta]

This is a solid play. Adds SOME additional cost, but a good plan.

Any tips for running Romex along the floor joists? I am trying to make it look as neat and clean as possible given unfinished crawlspace.

Every once in a while I have a good idea Truth is I'm lazy and will plan the easiest way to do stuff before hand and also think ahead of what could benefit me in the future.

As far as keeping it neat, it's almost near impossible unless you're rolling off a 1,000' spool. You can unravel out the amount of Romex you'll think you need, and then some, and cut it so you can keep it flat stapling it. I just use metal Romex nail on staples that has the little plastic thing in it to keep it center.

 

[gasman556]

Every once in a while I have a good idea Truth is I'm lazy and will plan the easiest way to do stuff before hand and also think ahead of what could benefit me in the future.

As far as keeping it neat, it's almost near impossible unless you're rolling off a 1,000' spool. You can unravel out the amount of Romex you'll think you need, and then some, and cut it so you can keep it flat stapling it. I just use metal Romex nail on staples that has the little plastic thing in it to keep it center.

Gotcha. I've got those little staple pieces ready to go. Any wisdom on how to route the line? Perpendicular and along the joists is what I am planning instead of some insane looking diagonal run.

 

[Delta]

Gotcha. I've got those little staple pieces ready to go. Any wisdom on how to route the line? Perpendicular and along the joists is what I am planning instead of some insane looking diagonal run.

It comes down to how you really want to do it. However some places code states you have to drill through the joist and run wire through there. I personally hate doing that as if you ever need to sister a floor joist from cracking or insect damage you're pulling a run of wire. You're doing this yourself so it's at your discretion.

 

[doitmyself]

Seems that if you are going to the trouble to follow code regarding GFCI, would you not want to follow code for everything. Your intent is not to burn your house down.

 

[gasman556]

Gents, thanks for all the input and advice. Once I finally was able to chase down the right tools (non contact voltage tester, outlet tester, etc), I saw the option that I chose to go with.

Apparently, they wired everything feeding the crawl space FROM a gfci outlet that’s in my garage. This will impart gfci protection to everything distal to that outlet (problem solved). I was able to tie into another outlet under there and make a dedicated run to where the water heater is and use a regular (now gfci protected) outlet for the protec rod thing.

I know it probably could’ve been done some sexy high speed way I didn’t do (maybe) via the light bulb pictured above, but the way I did it ensures it’s on the up and up. And I won’t burn my house down as @doitmyself alluded to!