Acura TL radiator flush

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Hello everyone,


I ended up flushing it 5 times then filled it up with Honda blue antifreeze. I did not used any chemical part because I was afraid it might do more damage than now. The rust stuff was still coming after the engine get warm. I'm going to do other flush maybe 10k miles later.

Thank for help! I do have one question. Anyone know where can I purchased original 3/8 inline magnefine filter from? ( Did not want to make a new thread just for 1 question.)
 
Originally Posted By: Rohan
....I ended up flushing it 5 times then filled it up with Honda blue antifreeze......I'm going to do other flush maybe 10k miles later....

If you did d&fs with distilled and then filled the radiator with Type 2 till full and the recovery tank once, you now have a system AF concentration of less than 50%. Not ideal, and the AF concentration could be significantly lower than 50%.

Because of the distilled water left in the block, the Type 2 premix not concentrated enough to get to 50% with one d&f. Only solution is to do some more d&f's with Type2 and test with a hydrometer after each one is mixed with block fluid. The Chaslyn 5 ball AF tester available at O'Reilly AP will be adequate to give you an idea when you reach an acceptable system AF concentration. You're going to need more Type 2 to complete the process.

This is why when doing a distilled flush series, a concentrated AF is the best way to go. Pep Boys OEM brand AF makes that possible now if an Asian PHOAT is desired.
 
What is AF? Can I wait till 10k miles later to do other drain & fill with type 2? Did not want to waste money on the new fuild.
 
Originally Posted By: Rohan
.... Can I wait till 10k miles later to do other drain & fill with type 2? Did not want to waste money on the new fuild.

You 'can' but imo you probably shouldn't. At the VERY least you should buy the Chaslyn 5 ball AF tester and check the AF concentration now, that will give you some idea of what you should do immediately. Coincidentally I saw the Chaslyn tester at my local WM a couple days ago for 88 cents. Just a tip when using it, tapping the glass with the AF in it lets you know it's working. I tested it on new Type 2 first to confirm it's accuracy, it's pretty darn accurate.

Understand you're now wanting to waste money on Type 2, but it's much less expensive than a blown head gasket and/or an under protected (from rust) cooling system.

Thinking you'll need to do 'at least' one more d&f with Type2 and check AF concentration with tester. Probably twice will get you close(r)to ideal.

As options, if you've got a Pep Boys nearby could buy a gallon of the OEM brand 'blue' concentrate and make your own 50/50 premix with distilled water and do more d&f's. OR drain some (not all) from the radiator, add some PB OEM blue to fill radiator, allow to circulate in system then check with tester. Repeat till desired concentration reached.

If I cared about the vehicle and wanted to keep it awhile, I'd take/use one of choices/options (Type2 or PB OEM) mentioned above.
 
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
Originally Posted By: Rohan
.... Can I wait till 10k miles later to do other drain & fill with type 2? Did not want to waste money on the new fuild.

You 'can' but imo you probably shouldn't. At the VERY least you should buy the Chaslyn 5 ball AF tester and check the AF concentration now, that will give you some idea of what you should do immediately. Coincidentally I saw the Chaslyn tester at my local WM a couple days ago for 88 cents. Just a tip when using it, tapping the glass with the AF in it lets you know it's working. I tested it on new Type 2 first to confirm it's accuracy, it's pretty darn accurate.

Understand you're now wanting to waste money on Type 2, but it's much less expensive than a blown head gasket and/or an under protected (from rust) cooling system.

Thinking you'll need to do 'at least' one more d&f with Type2 and check AF concentration with tester. Probably twice will get you close(r)to ideal.

As options, if you've got a Pep Boys nearby could buy a gallon of the OEM brand 'blue' concentrate and make your own 50/50 premix with distilled water and do more d&f's. OR drain some (not all) from the radiator, add some PB OEM blue to fill radiator, allow to circulate in system then check with tester. Repeat till desired concentration reached.

If I cared about the vehicle and wanted to keep it awhile, I'd take/use one of choices/options (Type2 or PB OEM) mentioned above.


I'm going to buy Chaslyn tester tomorrow or Tuesday then see what is going on with the AF. No Pep Boys stores here. I can't find blue AF except the dealership. So I'm going to purchased 2 AF from the dealership and do D&F.
 
^^^ Fwiw, I think you are doing the right thing and I'm thinking two gallons Type2 should get you there or close.

I speak from experience about this because I had to do something similar with a Civic. The Honda stealership used original/conventional green AF with a head gasket replacement. I called them on it and they offered to go back and redo using Type 2. Didn't trust them to do it right, so they gave me a gallon of Type2 and I bought another. Did d&fs with distilled till clear then with Type 2, testing with the AF tester, till I got the concentration I wanted, ~50%.
 
I flushed the OEM coolant in my S2000 last summer, currently I have Peak Global Lifetime(bought concentrate from NAPA) in it and so far so good.

I plan to do drain and fill with Peak Global Lifetime every 5-6 years.
 
PGL concentrate would certainly be an option (running it currently in a Tacoma), however here the OP has already invested in Type 2 for one fill after distilled flush series makes sense imo to follow through with Type 2 now.

PGL concentrate not available at all Napas, and some that will order will only do so for a case of 6 gallons. Not practical for many.
 
Agree, OP already invested good amount in Type 2 so he needs to finish with Type 2.

I mentioned PGL for the next coolant flush of an Asian vehicle.

My local NAPA agreed to order 2 gallons when I called last year, but other NAPA stores may not order anything less than a case of 6 gallons.

I hate pre-diluted coolant, if I can't find PGL concentrate I would try Pep Boys Asian formula or Zerex G-05.
 
I finally had time to do the antifreeze test. I bought it from Walmart for $.88 cents and I put in the radiator cap. Test came out with 1 ball pointing at -10 degrees during the cold engine temperature.
 
Originally Posted By: Rohan
How many times do I need to drain&fill to make it test result come out to -50 degrees?

Why are you thinking you need -50 degrees? Unless you live in really cold area, -34°F or ~50% AF concentration should be more than adequate to protect the system. And using Type 2 premix you will not be able to get a higher concentration than that.

Couldn't tell you how many d&fs it will take. Just do it until you get to 50% or somewhere close and it will be fine. 88 cents not bad for the little Made in the US AF tester. Saw where WM is again listing it on their website.
 
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
Originally Posted By: Rohan
How many times do I need to drain&fill to make it test result come out to -50 degrees?

Why are you thinking you need -50 degrees? Unless you live in really cold area, -34°F or ~50% AF concentration should be more than adequate to protect the system. And using Type 2 premix you will not be able to get a higher concentration than that.

Couldn't tell you how many d&fs it will take. Just do it until you get to 50% or somewhere close and it will be fine. 88 cents not bad for the little Made in the US AF tester. Saw where WM is again listing it on their website.


I don't know what I was thinking but I don't think I need that many protection unless I live in the cold weather. I'm gonna go ahead and do the drain&fill with type 2 antifreeze one time.
 
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