Accord v6 auto trans filter
- Thread starter zaffo757
- Start date
here is my post on the same subject;
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...-trans-spin-on-filter-opened#Post5092036
Cheers
J.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...-trans-spin-on-filter-opened#Post5092036
Cheers
J.
Spin on? No kidding. I saw another youtube video where someone cut open the in-line filter Honda puts in the 4 cylinder models - it is the SAME filter (it is actually a Honda motorcycle oil filter), but in the in line housing vs built into the case as on my v6.
So with the Acuras Honda put the same filter on as a spin-on? I want to slap these engineers in the face. If for packaging reasons they could not make it a spin-on on all transmissions, why in the [censored] did they not just use the in-line filter? Dorks.
Yours was in much better shape. I see you had to cut the media loose from the endplates. On mine the adhesive/potting material was crunchy and shattered, the media loose from the endplates.
So with the Acuras Honda put the same filter on as a spin-on? I want to slap these engineers in the face. If for packaging reasons they could not make it a spin-on on all transmissions, why in the [censored] did they not just use the in-line filter? Dorks.
Yours was in much better shape. I see you had to cut the media loose from the endplates. On mine the adhesive/potting material was crunchy and shattered, the media loose from the endplates.
I know that filter well, I replaced it twice on my 05 Pilot 3.5L. Another model year did have a tiny spin on. All available from Honda with no recommended service.
The 3.5L V6 has a replaceable filter (my trans is the P97A) that accessible?
Well at 145,000 miles the transmission suffered a sudden and complete failure. It had been great since the issues described above - no issues. BTW I have been using Valvoline Max life. I think I felt a delay shifting into D from P, but it only did it once or twice. On the day it died it lost D, had nothing in 3, 2 or 1. No codes on the OBDII. Nothing. It would move about 10 feet if revved to 4,000 rpms., but only did that 3 times moving the car to get towed home and to the trans shop. In SoCal - Reman trans was $2,500 with 3 year warranty. $1,300 to install. Included replacement of rear main seal that had been leaking. I had recently put in new motor and trans mounts, so no other work was needed. Other than this the entire car does not look to pretty, but is 100% mechanically (work after 100k miles - valve cover gaskets, starter, coolant, timing chain, drive belt, plugs, struts, brakes, just got new tires - so I could not get anything close to this car for $4,000. I was offered an in-shop rebuild for $2,600 total, but could only be warranted for 1 year. My wife and I drive this car hard (because it is so powerful and fun to drive) for trips into Los Angeles ; and I have a 16 year old that is driving it as his daily driver. Having the 3 year warranty was where I needed to be to keep it, so if that cost me and extra $1,200, it was worth it. The shop didn't open the trans, so they didn't have an idea about the failure, other than there was a whirring sound when cold at idle which they said is typical of the shaft bearings wallowing out their mounts in the cases. Once they get loose, the shafts start to wiggle and you're not long for the world at that point. The fluid was full and clean. They said they don't see many with more miles than this, so it didn't owe me anything - especially given our led foot. I sure don't want a turbocharged replacement car or the associated payment, so I hope I can pack another 100,000 on this car.
this is such a great place to be. A rock solid vehicle that doesnt advertise. What year is yours?
we had a gen 2, somewhere around 2001-2, totalled in a t-bone impact from a durango doing 40 through a red light without applying the brakes. I watched it from behind. My wife and 4 kids were in it, and they all walked out of it on their own. Due to a miscommunication with the insurance company, i drove it for a week, using the passenger side doors, with the seatbelt sewn into a fixed length which fit me. The entire side was caved in, yet it handled like new and tracked laser-straight down the road. These vans are solidly built.
His would be a 7th Gen, somewhere between 2003-2007. They switched to the 3.5L after that.
FWIW I didn't even make it to 110k on the first trans on my 2003 before it chunked. But that was before I (over)maintain things like I do now.
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