A couple of questions on C3

[unusedusername]

Gday from down under. I have a landcruiser fja300r with an f33a-ftv motor. it's a 3.3 v6 turbo. OEM specifies 0w-20 c3, though they do concede a 30 weight can be used in high load applications. I've replaced the sump on my vehicle with one 25% larger, it's about eight litres. I primarily use this vehicle for towing, the gcm is about 7t. Ambient conditions typically range between 10 and 50 celcius.

My car doesn't have a DPF, catalyst or EGR. The first two are in the shed, the latter is software disabled. Do i understand correctly that in the absence of these systems A3/B4 is appropriate? I'm running castrol edge 5w30 and change the oil at 3k miles. The 100% premium in cost for the C3 gave rise to my asking!

Lastly, is it acceptable to mix C3 with A3/B4? I have about 4 litres left of the c3.

Very much welcome thoughts on the oils, I'll respectfully decline to debate the removal of the various systems.

Cheers
Alex

 

[Jetronic]

0W-20 C3 doesn't exist. 0W-20 A3/B4 doesn't either.

 

[ceecbtg]

Yes A3/B4 is possible then, anyway C3 is not problem, sometimes it's higher quality based and your extra 25% sump helps.

 

[Jetronic]

0W-20 C3 doesn't exist. 0W-20 A3/B4 doesn't either.

Let me clarify:

C3 and A3/B4 specifications have a requirement for a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5cP. 0W-20 oils can't reach that, they top out around 2.8 cP, and most will be lower than that.

What is more likely is that the spec calls for a C5 or C6 oil.

In any event, there's no harm to go up to a C2 or C3 oil. When going to an A3/B4 there's possible advantages to be had, but if you go for the cheapest available a C3 is likely better. The higher saps levels allow the use of cheaper base oils and still meet the long drain capability. The better ones use the same base oils as C3 and have even longer drain capabilities.

 

[SR5]

Hi Mate, just talking engineering, yes without a catalyst or DPF then you can move from a mid-SAPS C2 (mid-HTHS) or C3 (high-HTHS) to a full-SAPS A5/B5 (mid-HTHS) or A3/B4 (high-HTHS).

The natural choice here is Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4.

I personally would have no problem mixing a bit C3 with A3/B4, especially if it's the same brand, or just used as a top up when it's a bit low on the stick.


Temps up to 50C (122F), are you in the outback, NT, FNQ, or NorthWA?
I use to work in Mt Isa, I would see over 40C, but never 50C. Talking normal air temp here, underground in the mines it was hotter.

 

[fantastic]

Yeah, like the others mentioned & my thoughts are that any 5w-30 would do the job. You can use any of the Euro spec'd oil in the 30+ grade. The full saps A3/B4 may give you a longer run time in the sump with its higher additive levels.

 

[YZJB]

Toyota specifies 0W-20 C5 not C3.

With your DPF removed, run a 5W-30 or 5W-40 A3/B4 or C3.

 

[unusedusername]

Many thanks all

 

[kschachn]

Many thanks all

What did you decide?

 

[unusedusername]

Edge 5w30 A3/B4 and I'll mix the last of the C3 in with it on this next change.