97 Yukon out of storage

[Flight_ER_Doc]

Folks, I'd like some advice. I have a 97 Yukon with the 5.7 (350) (fuel injected) engine, around 225K miles on it, that has been more or less in active storage for the last 3 years....that is to say it's been started and driven around a very little bit once or twice a month, just enough to warm the oil up and rotate the bearings.

When it was actively used, the oil and filter was changed every 3K miles, with (usually) a 5w30, then 10w30 mineral (Penzoil) oil. The usual sort of oil and fuel filter changes, transmission fluid changes, etc also.

Now, I want to drive it across the US this summer. In preparing it for the trip, I'm planning on changing all the filters and fluids, flush and refill the radiator and pressure-test the cooling system and cap, check the brakes, replace the tires, drain the fuel tank and fill with fresh fuel, etc.

My question is this: Are there any pros or cons to switching at this point to a synthetic oil? I'm giving the vehicle to a nephew and I'd like it to be in good shape, but it seems that I've had pretty good luck with plain old regular oils. When it was being driven regularly it would burn about 1 qt in 3K miles (that is, I'd be a quart low at the oil change).

Thanks for the expertise!

 

[Cutehumor]

I wouldn't switch to synthetic for a 11 yr old vehicle that sat in storage for the most part of 3 years. those seals might have gotten harder. At that mileage, I wouldn't risk leaks, so stick with dino.

 

[Johnny]

With those miles I would stay with regular 10w30 Pennzoil. The service you are planning to do is spot on. Pretty nice of you to give this to your nephew.

to BITOG

 

[Flight_ER_Doc]

Thanks, thats pretty much what I was thinking.

 

[daman]

You can switch at any time any mileage,matter of fact i have
the same truck(1999 Z71 350 CI)and i bought it with 200k on it
that wasn't driven very much(why they sold it)the first thing i did when i got it home was dump the dino out and in went M1 10w30 HM,not one drop was lost from a leak,i've switch over many car's over the years and haven't had one problem, if you do it will be very minor(a slight weep)and should stop.

switch now and sleep good at night..you'll be just fine

 

[Flight_ER_Doc]

Thanks very much. He's a fine young man and needs a good vehicle to go to medical school with, when he separates from the service.

 

[Johnny]

Tell him we say THANKS for the service.

 

[Flight_ER_Doc]

Originally Posted By: daman
You can switch at any time any mileage,matter of fact i have
the same truck(1999 Z71 350 CI)and i bought it with 200k on it
that wasn't driven very much(why they sold it)the first thing i did when i got it home was dump the dino out and in went M1 10w30 HM,not one drop was lost from a leak,i've switch over many car's over the years and haven't had one problem, if you do it will be very minor(a slight weep)and should stop.

switch now and sleep good at night..you'll be just fine


Thanks, but does it really offer any benefit?

 

[Flight_ER_Doc]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
Tell him we say THANKS for the service.

Will do, thanks. The military is kind of the family business, he plans on returning when he's finished his training.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: Flight_ER_Doc
Originally Posted By: daman
You can switch at any time any mileage,matter of fact i have
the same truck(1999 Z71 350 CI)and i bought it with 200k on it
that wasn't driven very much(why they sold it)the first thing i did when i got it home was dump the dino out and in went M1 10w30 HM,not one drop was lost from a leak,i've switch over many car's over the years and haven't had one problem, if you do it will be very minor(a slight weep)and should stop.

switch now and sleep good at night..you'll be just fine


Thanks, but does it really offer any benefit?

IMO yes..handle's the heat and the cold temps better, can
get M1 or PP at wal-mart for a great price and take it out
6-8,000 miles.

 

[Jim 5]

I had a '98 K1500 with the 5.7L vortec, and maintained it out to 185k.

My best advice is to change the fuel filter, it's on the driver's side frame-rail right around where the front and rear doors meet. Buy some chinese made pressure-fitting wrenches so you don't damage the connectors. The filters are cheap and widely available. It's a 1/2 hour job (max) with the right tools. These trucks go through a huge volume of gasoline and a clogged filter will take out the fuel pump.

Also, these years of engines had the lower intake manifold leak. It couldn't hurt to dose your cooling system with the GM cooling system tabs. You can get them at any GM dealer...follow the instructions.

Only other thing I can think of is these years of trucks would routinely blow the heater core quick connect hose fitting (plastic) that snaps into the intake manifold on the passenger side. The plastic on this fitting is likely pretty brittle by now and it's a ticking time bomb that will ruin your or the next owner's day somewhere inconvenient. GM sells for a few dollars an upgraded metal part that terminates the hose at the intake manifold, and it's a simple job to replace it. Consider doing that as well.

Good luck to you. These are good trucks.

 

[Dale_Knight]

I have a 98 Yukon with the same engine still in use which blew a head gasket at about 120k miles about three years ago and started leaking rad fluid all over the garage floor. Luckily it was still on extended warantee otherwise it would have been a few dollars to fix.

 

[Flight_ER_Doc]

Originally Posted By: Jim 5
I had a '98 K1500 with the 5.7L vortec, and maintained it out to 185k.

My best advice is to change the fuel filter, it's on the driver's side frame-rail right around where the front and rear doors meet. Buy some chinese made pressure-fitting wrenches so you don't damage the connectors. The filters are cheap and widely available. It's a 1/2 hour job (max) with the right tools. These trucks go through a huge volume of gasoline and a clogged filter will take out the fuel pump.

Also, these years of engines had the lower intake manifold leak. It couldn't hurt to dose your cooling system with the GM cooling system tabs. You can get them at any GM dealer...follow the instructions.

Only other thing I can think of is these years of trucks would routinely blow the heater core quick connect hose fitting (plastic) that snaps into the intake manifold on the passenger side. The plastic on this fitting is likely pretty brittle by now and it's a ticking time bomb that will ruin your or the next owner's day somewhere inconvenient. GM sells for a few dollars an upgraded metal part that terminates the hose at the intake manifold, and it's a simple job to replace it. Consider doing that as well.

Good luck to you. These are good trucks.


You're right about the filters.... amazing how a $15 (max) filter will be protected by a $700 (parts and labor) fuel pump. I've had 4 pumps now, the first two were on extended warranty, the third and fourth on trips where I got some dirty fuel.

The manifold and heater core was replaced on warranty, too. I had a lot of buyers remorse about that extended warranty...until the trans went at 40K miles.