94 corolla no start issue

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I would take a quick connect compression gauge hose, remove the schrader valve, screw it in the spark plug hole with the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke and connect a air hose to the compression tester hose. You may have to hold the crank with a socket to keep the engine from turning. If air blows out of the intake or exhaust the valves are leaking, if air blows out the oil filler hole the rings are leaking.
 
Originally Posted By: finalyzd
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
BTW, you do know for sure it is getting gas and spark?

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We used a spark plug checker and cracked a fuel line then cranked it. Definetly got fuel(all over my face) and the spark plug checker lit up but it was weird looked really weak.


You also need to check for injector signal with a noid light.
 
I too was under the impression that is the compression is lousy and you add a little oil to a cylinder and it improves its the rings. Should go back to lousy in a short period of time.

I had a 1994 Camry with a 4 cyl and it may have been the same engine. The coil inside the distributor seems to go at between 150K and 200K miles.
 
Originally Posted By: AVB
What I was refering to was valve adjustment or seating issues. If the crank is 180 off from the cams, the valves would be closing at BDC instead of TDC. But depending on cam timing it could still make compression, but it would be pulling vacuum through the exhaust and blowing exhuast through the intake.


what you wrote would apply if the valve timing with respect to crank were off by 90 or 270. But with 180 off the pistons are going up and down the same time with respect to the valves, but the spark is happening after the exhaust has discharged the cylinder charge and the intake is opening. In other words is is like the spark is off by 180.
 
You are right, I was going by crank degrees not cam degrees. The gear reduction slipped my mind. If the cam is 180 off like you suggest he could just move the plug wires around or rotate the distributor 180.
 
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