5w20 Conventional ok in a Prius?
- Thread starter Greg L
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Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Doesn't the Prius have an insulated pocket of oil somewhere in the system to (try to) keep some warm oil available at all times? I thought I read that somewhere...
Ha-ha! That's a new one!
Certain years have a thermos bottle that stores heated coolant and makes it available on startup;
In the summer months warm coolant is available even after an overnight park.
My 2004 has it, so "no," not a new one.
https://priuschat.com/threads/did-prius-do-away-with-the-the-thermos.189333/
I am running 5w-20 syn in my 2004, which calls for 5w-30
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Doesn't the Prius have an insulated pocket of oil somewhere in the system to (try to) keep some warm oil available at all times? I thought I read that somewhere...
Ha-ha! That's a new one!
Certain years have a thermos bottle that stores heated coolant and makes it available on startup;
In the summer months warm coolant is available even after an overnight park.
My 2004 has it, so "no," not a new one.
https://priuschat.com/threads/did-prius-do-away-with-the-the-thermos.189333/
I am running 5w-20 syn in my 2004, which calls for 5w-30
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I wouldn't want mmo in my engine. I'd drain it and refill with straight oil.
Why did you add MMO to the oil? Trying to to solve a problem?
How much MMO did you add? VWB (conventional) is up to 30% synthetic content. You'll be fine.
How much MMO did you add? VWB (conventional) is up to 30% synthetic content. You'll be fine.
Originally Posted by The Critic
5w20 conventional will be fine - the manual says so (but for a reduced service interval).
Why didn't you ask the quick lube to install 0w20 synthetic? Most quick lubes sell the product nowadays.
Maybe because they charge $70 for a synthetic oil change and the $25 coupon is only for a conventional?
I'd just run it for 5k and forget about it.
5w20 conventional will be fine - the manual says so (but for a reduced service interval).
Why didn't you ask the quick lube to install 0w20 synthetic? Most quick lubes sell the product nowadays.
Maybe because they charge $70 for a synthetic oil change and the $25 coupon is only for a conventional?
I'd just run it for 5k and forget about it.
I read somewhere here along time ago that MMO is supposed to be a way of thinning out oil weight, for a temporary solution. Thought I would try it to thin back from a 5w to a 0w.
As far as the VWB, this was the basic 5w20 conventional...according to the lube 'guys'. They had full syn 0w20 there, but wanted almost $70 for that weight of oil change.
By the way, most of my OCI distances run about 4500-5000k miles between changes, using Mobil 1 or Pennzoil HM Syn. This is our commuter car and gets a lot of mountain driving.
GL
As far as the VWB, this was the basic 5w20 conventional...according to the lube 'guys'. They had full syn 0w20 there, but wanted almost $70 for that weight of oil change.
By the way, most of my OCI distances run about 4500-5000k miles between changes, using Mobil 1 or Pennzoil HM Syn. This is our commuter car and gets a lot of mountain driving.
GL
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change your own small upcharge for syn. Oil change place huge upcharge for syn. Let it go. If the MMO makes some oil burn off throw some 5w30 in there for make up.
Originally Posted by Greg L
I read somewhere here along time ago that MMO is supposed to be a way of thinning out oil weight, for a temporary solution. Thought I would try it to thin back from a 5w to a 0w.
0W20 and 5W20 are the same thickness at engine temp (200F plus). While the exact viscosity is unknown between 100C and -35C (5W20) or 100C and -40C (0W20) I suspect you'd be hard pressed to really notice a difference--as in, for any temperature above 0F I'd doubt you'd notice any operational difference.
I read somewhere here along time ago that MMO is supposed to be a way of thinning out oil weight, for a temporary solution. Thought I would try it to thin back from a 5w to a 0w.
0W20 and 5W20 are the same thickness at engine temp (200F plus). While the exact viscosity is unknown between 100C and -35C (5W20) or 100C and -40C (0W20) I suspect you'd be hard pressed to really notice a difference--as in, for any temperature above 0F I'd doubt you'd notice any operational difference.
Originally Posted by Greg L
They had full syn 0w20 there, but wanted almost $70 for that weight of oil change.
By the way, most of my OCI distances run about 4500-5000k miles between changes, using Mobil 1 or Pennzoil HM Syn. This is our commuter car and gets a lot of mountain driving.
GL
Got it, that makes sense. Good job with changing the oil at 5k intervals. Not sure what mileage you are at, but if you are past 100K, I would consider cleaning the intake manifold and EGR cooler (with valve). They tend to clog up terribly on these cars. The head gasket is also quite problematic by 150K; mine failed and here's the thread on it:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...sket-failure-at-185k-summary#Post5037987
They had full syn 0w20 there, but wanted almost $70 for that weight of oil change.
By the way, most of my OCI distances run about 4500-5000k miles between changes, using Mobil 1 or Pennzoil HM Syn. This is our commuter car and gets a lot of mountain driving.
GL
Got it, that makes sense. Good job with changing the oil at 5k intervals. Not sure what mileage you are at, but if you are past 100K, I would consider cleaning the intake manifold and EGR cooler (with valve). They tend to clog up terribly on these cars. The head gasket is also quite problematic by 150K; mine failed and here's the thread on it:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...sket-failure-at-185k-summary#Post5037987
I'm at 189k miles. No head gasket issue (yet).
What do you suggest for cleaning the intake manifold? Sea Foam?
What do you suggest for cleaning the intake manifold? Sea Foam?
Originally Posted by Greg L
I'm at 189k miles. No head gasket issue (yet).
What do you suggest for cleaning the intake manifold? Sea Foam?
Remove all of the parts: intake manifold, EGR valve, EGR tube and EGR cooler. Clean the intake manifold passageways (the small ones) with a bore brush and brake clean. Same with the EGR tube. Disassemble the EGR valve and manually clean with brake clean. On the EGR cooler, a pressure washer seems to be the quickest way. Some people have had luck with oven cleaner.
If you still have the original engine water pump, it may be a good idea to replace it as well. They tend to fail intermittently and can sometimes be responsible for HG issues. The aisin pump (From rockauto) is the same pump as the dealer pump at 1/2 the cost.
I'm at 189k miles. No head gasket issue (yet).
What do you suggest for cleaning the intake manifold? Sea Foam?
Remove all of the parts: intake manifold, EGR valve, EGR tube and EGR cooler. Clean the intake manifold passageways (the small ones) with a bore brush and brake clean. Same with the EGR tube. Disassemble the EGR valve and manually clean with brake clean. On the EGR cooler, a pressure washer seems to be the quickest way. Some people have had luck with oven cleaner.
If you still have the original engine water pump, it may be a good idea to replace it as well. They tend to fail intermittently and can sometimes be responsible for HG issues. The aisin pump (From rockauto) is the same pump as the dealer pump at 1/2 the cost.
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maybe 2oz
Conventional won't hurt a thing.
Originally Posted by simple_gifts
Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Doesn't the Prius have an insulated pocket of oil somewhere in the system to (try to) keep some warm oil available at all times? I thought I read that somewhere...
Ha-ha! That's a new one!
Certain years have a thermos bottle that stores heated coolant and makes it available on startup ...
Yes, a bottle of coolant, not a "pocket of oil." Storing as much heat in oil would require a far larger container, because oil has a lower specific heat than coolant, as well as lower density.
Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Doesn't the Prius have an insulated pocket of oil somewhere in the system to (try to) keep some warm oil available at all times? I thought I read that somewhere...
Ha-ha! That's a new one!
Certain years have a thermos bottle that stores heated coolant and makes it available on startup ...
Yes, a bottle of coolant, not a "pocket of oil." Storing as much heat in oil would require a far larger container, because oil has a lower specific heat than coolant, as well as lower density.
From what I remember, the 2nd gen Prius has the coolant thermos, and 3rd gen (2009 onward) got rid of the thermos and has an exhaust/coolant heat exchanger instead.
Originally Posted by simple_gifts
Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Doesn't the Prius have an insulated pocket of oil somewhere in the system to (try to) keep some warm oil available at all times? I thought I read that somewhere...
Ha-ha! That's a new one!
Certain years have a thermos bottle that stores heated coolant and makes it available on startup;
In the summer months warm coolant is available even after an overnight park.
My 2004 has it, so "no," not a new one.
https://priuschat.com/threads/did-prius-do-away-with-the-the-thermos.189333/
Got it. Thanks for the correction.
Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Doesn't the Prius have an insulated pocket of oil somewhere in the system to (try to) keep some warm oil available at all times? I thought I read that somewhere...
Ha-ha! That's a new one!
Certain years have a thermos bottle that stores heated coolant and makes it available on startup;
In the summer months warm coolant is available even after an overnight park.
My 2004 has it, so "no," not a new one.
https://priuschat.com/threads/did-prius-do-away-with-the-the-thermos.189333/
Got it. Thanks for the correction.
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