5w-20 vs 5w30

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Originally Posted By: Pontual
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Do you have an automatic? You'll get revs, revs mean pressure and protection.

As long as you don't lug it you're fine on 5w20. Just because humans can't shed heat above 98 degrees doesn't mean the truck is unhappy-- it would like to be 190.
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Good point! Autotransmission can use thinner oils ... I like this idea!
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I remember reading that somewhere years ago,that a manual transmission car benefits from a thicker oil. Something even made me think about that thread yesterday. Can't remember if I'd maybe read it on a Nissan forum?
 
Another case of overthinking it. In your previous posts, plenty of folks towing heavy in hot weather using 5w20 chimed in with no adverse reports. Oil temps remaining well within the capabilities of a 5w20 to provide adequate protection (almost like the larger sumps and such were used for that reason, assuming a 5w20 oil was used... hmmm).

The only way to figure out if one is better than another for your use is to try them both, and then do UOA's on the oil, and then infer which one is "better" based on the results. Been there, bought the t-shirt, and found there to be virtually no difference in my case when running a 5w20, a 5w30, or a 5w40 in a 2V 4.6l that had a factory recommendation for 5w30. (The 5w40 did result in lower fuel mileage in my case - I tested each for over a year, with UOA's, and kept the fuel mileage records. Not surprising given how much cooler the oil runs in the winter here, and I suspect the same for you).

The rest is all subjective seat of the pants feel good talk, and nothing more.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
A average grade 5w30 wouldn't give you as good as protection as the 5w-20 in that case.


How so? An API SN oil that meets the mfg specs should be just fine. In extreme conditions I'd rather have the 30 grade oil in the sump as long as it meets the spec.
Does Ford sell F 150s in OZ? If so, what's the spec?


That era and that engine, Ford sold in a F250 here.
Castrol say to use a 5w30 synthetic or a 10W-40 semi-synthetic.

I suspect most people would be using the 10W-40 semi-synthetic. I also would not be surprised if a mineral 15w40 was used by some. We use 15w40 like you guys used 5W-20, we put it in everything.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
...But what do the engineers at Ford know?


Apparently, less than we'd like. Either that or they get run over by their marketing and litigation departments.

Those same Ford engineers loved 5w30 oil in their 1991-2000 4.6L engines. And in 2001 they changed their mind and loved 5w-20 even more...lol. So what changed? Did lubrication engineering have a Newtonian or Eulerian moment or something? So automobile engine designers and lubrication engineers got real smart in 2001. A year ealier, they weren't so smart.
 
Another 5w20 vs 5w30 thread...

I guess we were due.

Tomorrow there will probably be " Are Fram filters REALLY that bad??" thread.
 
Originally Posted By: MNgopher
Another case of overthinking it. In your previous posts, plenty of folks towing heavy in hot weather using 5w20 chimed in with no adverse reports. Oil temps remaining well within the capabilities of a 5w20 to provide adequate protection (almost like the larger sumps and such were used for that reason, assuming a 5w20 oil was used... hmmm).

The only way to figure out if one is better than another for your use is to try them both, and then do UOA's on the oil, and then infer which one is "better" based on the results. Been there, bought the t-shirt, and found there to be virtually no difference in my case when running a 5w20, a 5w30, or a 5w40 in a 2V 4.6l that had a factory recommendation for 5w30. (The 5w40 did result in lower fuel mileage in my case - I tested each for over a year, with UOA's, and kept the fuel mileage records. Not surprising given how much cooler the oil runs in the winter here, and I suspect the same for you).

The rest is all subjective seat of the pants feel good talk, and nothing more.


Ah adequate. That must really reassure the OP.
And no, a UOA will tell you absolutely nothing about comparing the oils performance, except maybe to see if it sheared out of grade.
 
Search for my UOAs (I UOA'ed every fluid change) on my 2010 FX4 (5.4L/3.73/6R80) and you will easily see the remarks that 0/5W-20 is too thin is pure bovine scatology. I put 160,000 miles on mine in 5 years and 45% of those miles were towing a fifth wheel travel trailer in the mountains and plains in temperatures ranging from -15F to 116F. Further, I used 5W-20 for the first 100,000 miles then switched to 0W-20 for the remaining 60,000 miles. No runs, no drips, and no errors. No need to over think it...
 
Are you changing twice a year (spring & fall)? What are the summer oil temps when pull a grade with the trailer? You may need an oil that will be able to withstand heat more importantly than nominal viscosity ...

Has anyone reported troubles with this motor running heavier oils than xW-20?

5w30 will operate in hydrodynamic realm more than 5W-20 (the physics of viscosity). So if that's important to you, you are OK to do it.
 
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I've been in the same question mode with a new Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with the 3.6 Pentastar engine we just got. It calls for 5w20 yet previous years were 5w30 and the owners manual says 5w30 can be used if 5w20 is not available but the 5w20 is preferred. I figure I will just run 5w20 as the book states and be fine. If I get too bothered by this I can run 5w30 in the summer.
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Search for my UOAs (I UOA'ed every fluid change) on my 2010 FX4 (5.4L/3.73/6R80) and you will easily see the remarks that 0/5W-20 is too thin is pure bovine scatology. I put 160,000 miles on mine in 5 years and 45% of those miles were towing a fifth wheel travel trailer in the mountains and plains in temperatures ranging from -15F to 116F. Further, I used 5W-20 for the first 100,000 miles then switched to 0W-20 for the remaining 60,000 miles. No runs, no drips, and no errors. No need to over think it...


I remember your UOAs. I use and prefer M1 0-20 because it performs so well in very hot or cold temps. I probably am the poster boy for 0-20 as I have used it for many years now .
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Search for my UOAs (I UOA'ed every fluid change) on my 2010 FX4 (5.4L/3.73/6R80) and you will easily see the remarks that 0/5W-20 is too thin is pure bovine scatology. I put 160,000 miles on mine in 5 years and 45% of those miles were towing a fifth wheel travel trailer in the mountains and plains in temperatures ranging from -15F to 116F. Further, I used 5W-20 for the first 100,000 miles then switched to 0W-20 for the remaining 60,000 miles. No runs, no drips, and no errors. No need to over think it...


I recall your good track record in that truck....it would be nice if you'd done one run with 5w30 for a real world comparison.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Search for my UOAs (I UOA'ed every fluid change) on my 2010 FX4 (5.4L/3.73/6R80) and you will easily see the remarks that 0/5W-20 is too thin is pure bovine scatology. I put 160,000 miles on mine in 5 years and 45% of those miles were towing a fifth wheel travel trailer in the mountains and plains in temperatures ranging from -15F to 116F. Further, I used 5W-20 for the first 100,000 miles then switched to 0W-20 for the remaining 60,000 miles. No runs, no drips, and no errors. No need to over think it...
I remember your UOAs. I use and prefer M1 0-20 because it performs so well in very hot or cold temps. I probably am the poster boy for 0-20 as I have used it for many years now .
Back at my laptop now - OP here are my 2010 FX4 UOAs there are 21 of them for the engine oil as well as front/rear axles, transfer case, transmission, and power steering along with some VOAs of engine and gear oil. Hopefully, this helps you make a decision.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Search for my UOAs (I UOA'ed every fluid change) on my 2010 FX4 (5.4L/3.73/6R80) and you will easily see the remarks that 0/5W-20 is too thin is pure bovine scatology. I put 160,000 miles on mine in 5 years and 45% of those miles were towing a fifth wheel travel trailer in the mountains and plains in temperatures ranging from -15F to 116F. Further, I used 5W-20 for the first 100,000 miles then switched to 0W-20 for the remaining 60,000 miles. No runs, no drips, and no errors. No need to over think it...
I recall your good track record in that truck....it would be nice if you'd done one run with 5w30 for a real world comparison.
I probably should have, but I was attempting to show that xW-20 works and protects engines even when they are working hard.
 
Ah, lets pounce on the word adequate. So who here has actually run different weights in the engine family in question? Produced UOAs showing if there actually is something magically better? Maximum? Optimal?

I did. Been on this board for a very long time and posted UOAs on my previous F150 using 5w20, 5w30, and 5w40 in year long trials. No discernable difference in UOA results. Hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles using 5w20, in extreme cold, hot, mountain passes, towing, etc... With this engine family. Still have two of them.

If there are results somewhere that conclusively show thicker is better, optimal, maximum, whatever term you want to use, I'd love to see it.

Thicker won't blow these engines up. Won't dispute you can use what you want. I will question claims of better, optimal etc without proof or evidence that actually supports the claim.
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Back at my laptop now - OP here are my 2010 FX4 UOAs there are 21 of them for the engine oil as well as front/rear axles, transfer case, transmission, and power steering along with some VOAs of engine and gear oil. Hopefully, this helps you make a decision.


Dang ... nice spreadsheet 2015_PSD.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I remember reading that somewhere years ago,that a manual transmission car benefits from a thicker oil. Something even made me think about that thread yesterday. Can't remember if I'd maybe read it on a Nissan forum?


I'm in full agreement that an auto lets you run thinner than a manual.

It's easier to lug a manual, high load, low revs, more boundary contact.

I was in my Nissan (in spite of the labels, I'm a thinish oil user) diesel with 5W30 edge (HTHS 3.6), when my wife (driving), dropped the clutch in third at walking pace (she thought she was in first)...BANG, and a dead stall.

I would have much rather had 15W40 that particular second...
 
Got to love people continuing to state UOA when taking about wear rate. Does no one learn anything on this site any more? UOA is not at all a measure of wear.
 
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