30 weight

[mechanicx]

I agree with using the straight HD30W. Lawn mowers can run rich and fuel dilute the oil. Best to not have any VII. Dino 10W30 usuually has high volatility and VII. I think some of this oil can blow back into the carb and eventually gum it up along with inside the engine.

Lawn mowers are normally ran in warm weather and heat up fast, so I don't think the multiviscosity is needed. That's not to say 10W30 dino doesn't work OK. I sometimes use it. A synthetic would probably be a little better though. My Honda GCV160 always smoked on start up with most 10W30 dino.

 

[daman]

I also agree on using a 30w,as these small engines acquire hr's they seem to start using multi weights at least mine did,since i've switch everything over years ago to Amsoils ACD no consumption at all in 100hr OCI.

 

[kcfx4]

kids sick? give him a half quart of 0w20, that 0 gets to him quick, he'll be fine in the morning! um, multi-vis synthetic is Not the answer to everything!

 

[kcfx4]

Originally Posted By: WEB
Regarding HD30 oils,I don't think I would trust some of the newer formulations.A B&S,Koler etc may be fine but I would want a companies best additive package if going with an SM oil.I think Pennzoil may be getting rid of their hd30 oil. There is plenty in the stores but I challenge you to come up with usefull info about it on their website. The Castrol HD30 had a HTHS rating of 2.9 much lower than the HD40.About the only single weight stuff I would trust is Non SM or an HDEO.I decided to go with a newer SM 10w30 rather than a older SJ or SL rated.I would like to think that advances in deposit control will pay off. I just have a bad feeling that some of the newer HD30 oils are just filling a slot and not be that good.Since getting good info is not easy, I am sticking to something under more scrutiny lke Pennzoil Ultra. I am not saying that the current HD30 offerings are bad. I am just saying info on them is hard to come by and I am not trusting them.

so, it makes more sense to ck w an oil companies web site (who in most cases have no intrest in small engines at all) than to trust small engine manufactures who have recommended the same oils for years and years? makes sense to me?

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
kids sick? give him a half quart of 0w20, that 0 gets to him quick, he'll be fine in the morning! um, multi-vis synthetic is Not the answer to everything!

Who you talking too?

ACD is a 30w, does carry a multi spec only because of it's PP but has no VII's so it's very shear stable.

 

[kcfx4]

web

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
web

10-4

 

[doitmyself]

Daman, I know that the ACD specs. are much better than the ASE. What pushed you to use it instead of the ASE? Ive got an itch to try one of these oils. Thanks.

Here's Amsoil's answer to this question: "We would suggest this product over the AMSOIL ACD for several reasons. The first would be that the ASE addresses oil consumption common in small engines to a greater degree than the ACD product. Secondly the ASE utilizes additive chemistry more appropriate for a gasoline application such as your 23 hp Kawasaki, whereas the ACD is more directed toward heavy duty diesel applications. Should your equipment be used on a seasonal basis, the ASE would also offer a higher degree of protection during those periods on prolong inactivity. The ASE was developed as a straight SAE 30 grade product. The natural low temperature properties of its synthetic base stock however allows it to meet the low temp performance requirements of a multi-grade 10w30 oil. Indeed, this product is suitable for use in application calling for a straight grade SAE 30 fluid."

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Daman, I know that the ACD specs. are much better than the ASE. What pushed you to use it instead of the ASE? Ive got an itch to try one of these oils. Thanks.

Right Ams don't recommend it over the ASE i knew that too, but i do, for 1 i like the higher TBN, people say TBN isn't a concern in small engines but IMO it is especially since i do extended drains on my power equipment,for 2 i like the diesel rating it's a more robust oil IMO plus the price is right,try it you'll like it,lol

here's a report....

Iron---------------2
Chromium--------0
Nickel-------------0
Aluminum--------1
Copper------------0
Lead---------------0
Tin-----------------1
Cadmium----------0
Silver--------------0
Titanium----------0
Vanadium---------0
Silicon------------2
Sodium-----------3
Potassium--------2
Molybdenum-----0
Antimony---------0
Manganese-------0
Lithium-----------0
Boron--------------2
Magnesium-------9
Calcium--------3743
Barium------------0
Phosphorous----1265
Zinc--------------1353

CSt Visc. @ 100C----9.9

TBN-------------------10.60

 

[Jaymus]

You guys keep using your straight 30, and I'll keep using Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 with 0 oil consumption.

Guess what? We'll never affect each other and we'll never trash our engines from either oil. Even 5w30 is fine. These multi-vis oils of today don't shear like they did 10+ years ago.

Some people are making it sound like putting a 5w30 or 0w30 into a lawnmower will immediately give it a cst grade of 1 or something as soon as the engine warms.

Dunno about you guys, but if multi-vis is good enough for ATV's and motorcycles, it's PLENTY for a low output lawn mower.

 

[1999nick]

Originally Posted By: ccs v2.0
Call me skeptical, but my mower doesn't have a catalytic converter, so I'd use an older SJ or SL rated straight weight HDEO on my air cooled B&S engine long before considering a "diluted" zinc and phosphorous SM formulation.


You are right. I just checked all of my OPE: the mower, yard vac, power washer, etc., and there was not a single catalytic comverter to be seen. That is why, when I ran out of my old stock M1 5W30 SL, I changed over to M1 10W30 High Mileage oil, which is still SL.

 

[ccs v2.0]

Hmm, just learned something new. Not a fan of Mobil 1, so I didn't know the HM PCMOs were still SL.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: ccs v2.0
Not a fan of Mobil 1, so I didn't know the HM PCMOs were still SL.

You would be if you knew how well built there HM oil's are...

 

[WEB]

Well I actually am sick so no argument there. I did state that the only HD oils I would really trust regarding max wear protection. would be from an equipment manufature like B&S or Kohler. But, buying an older spec oil to get the wear protection might leave you with an out of date additive package. From what I heard, ethanol contaning fuels are not kind to small engines that are not used regularly. Hdeo is not really an option because It is not practical to buy a gallon size. I would not touch 5w40 because that viscosity in hdeo is closer to 50 weight than 30w.I am also looking at value.I cant buy a quart of Rotella T 30. I can't buy a quart of t5. Amsoil I think is fairly priced, but add shippping and pain in the [censored] factor not the best value. My engine is brand new. I am going to change my oil soon with Pennzoil HD30. It says SL on the bottle but it could be SM (specs can change at any time).I guess I am a latest and greatest type person. I want best availabe deposit controland will hopefully get adequete wear protection.

 

[kcfx4]

i really like this post by you web, you did your homework, even ratioalized your answer for all to see, this is wonderful! You had a theory and backed it, wish all did that. and id like to say that in my opinion, you made the correct decision (regardless of brand)

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: WEB
..I would not touch 5w40 because that viscosity in hdeo is closer to 50 weight than 30w..


That's not true. Per specs, an oil like Shell Rotella-T 5w40 flows better cold than most 5w30's do.

Joel

 

[kcfx4]

come on joel, he got his calculator out and came up w/the right answer (30wt) thats all that matters

 

[WEB]

Joel, I was talking about the viscosty at 100deg C. The 5w40 hdeo are in the 14 to 15 range.16 is 50w range. auto oil 10w30or hd30 are around 10. some HM oil like M1 hm10w30 or hedo 10w30 are around 12.The fact that there is a 10w30 hdeo oil and that Amsoil. RP,Redline, and Honda all sell 10w30 motorcycle oils indicate capability.The thicker oil creates more friction and heat.

 

[Jaymus]

First of all, in reality, what is the difference between 12cst and 14-15cst when you factor in cold starting at who knows what cst? The Rotella T6 5W-40 has a lower 40C cst, but I think I remember the older RTS 5W-40 being 90 or 95cst at 40C, I believe. 40C is 104F. We don't start our engines at that. Imagine how thick a straight 30 is at 75-80F. Could be colder or hotter, but either way, it's so much thicker. Just think of that when you start thinking about fractional viscosity differences between a 30 weight and 40 weight at 100C.

PLUS, one thing I've seen in most UOA's of 5W-40 RTS is that is usually ends up around 13.5cst when beat and diluted, or 14.2ish on average. I've seen UOA's where it came out in the exact same grade as it went in, too. Either way, I run it in everything, because it's not too thick when you look at the whole picture.

 

[Bror Jace]

WEB, the 50 weight SAE range starts at a cSt of 17 and goes up to about 21.

40 weight SAE range goes from cSt 13 - 16.5.

kcfx4, the recommendations JTK, I and others give here are based on decades of experience with OPE ... in all seasons.

We are not giving out false/bad information as a joke or something.

Disagree if you will, but citing the dumbed-down owners manuals we are all familiar with isn't very persuasive to those of us that continuously seek a better product for a given application.