I have read some horror stories on this site about cartridge oil filters collapsing during use so I have a 2017 Lincoln MKZ with the 3.0 V6 twin turbo quite similar to the Ford Ecoboost 2.7T. Both motors take a cartridge oil filter I have not checked yet but I would assume the oil filters are the same. My question is are there any aftermarket cartridge oil filters I should avoid based on poor quality?
3.0 T Lincoln filter
- Thread starter Camprunner
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I work at a Ford dealer changing oil on many of these engines. I can tell you to please use a Motorcraft filter or other good name brand filter with the inner cage. I have seen Fram and no name filters with no inner plastic cage supporting the element and have seen it partially collapsed on engines with more than 5k miles on the oil.
If you run past 5k i highly reccomend a filter change at 4-5k. Even the plastic cores are sketchy in my humble opinion. My wife's Mercedes takes a cartrige and its all metal.
I am not aware of any high dollar improved filters for the 2.7, but if it really makes you lose sleep, reloaction kits would let you run either a standard fl500s, fl820s, or equivalent. Or with a 3/4-16 thread you could run the fl400s, fl300s, fl1a or equivalent.
If you run past 5k i highly reccomend a filter change at 4-5k. Even the plastic cores are sketchy in my humble opinion. My wife's Mercedes takes a cartrige and its all metal.
I am not aware of any high dollar improved filters for the 2.7, but if it really makes you lose sleep, reloaction kits would let you run either a standard fl500s, fl820s, or equivalent. Or with a 3/4-16 thread you could run the fl400s, fl300s, fl1a or equivalent.
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't know about the oil filters but I really like your car....it must really fly with the 3.0T?
Did you buy it new or CPO?
I was a CPO had only 6,600 miles and did not have a mark on it the deal was so good it was hard to pass up and the 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty helped as well. The car is extremely quick put it in sport mode and it can be downright scary on full afterburner!
I don't know about the oil filters but I really like your car....it must really fly with the 3.0T?
Did you buy it new or CPO?
I was a CPO had only 6,600 miles and did not have a mark on it the deal was so good it was hard to pass up and the 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty helped as well. The car is extremely quick put it in sport mode and it can be downright scary on full afterburner!
Originally Posted By: KMJ1992
I work at a Ford dealer changing oil on many of these engines. I can tell you to please use a Motorcraft filter or other good name brand filter with the inner cage. I have seen Fram and no name filters with no inner plastic cage supporting the element and have seen it partially collapsed on engines with more than 5k miles on the oil.
If you run past 5k i highly reccomend a filter change at 4-5k. Even the plastic cores are sketchy in my humble opinion. My wife's Mercedes takes a cartrige and its all metal.
I am not aware of any high dollar improved filters for the 2.7, but if it really makes you lose sleep, reloaction kits would let you run either a standard fl500s, fl820s, or equivalent. Or with a 3/4-16 thread you could run the fl400s, fl300s, fl1a or equivalent.
Thank you for the info knowing about the cage in the Motorcraft filter I will most likely stick with them or at leased always look for one with the inside cage. As for running the filter past 5k that's not much of a problem for me I plan to stick with around a 5k OCI on this car esp considering it is direct injected and twin turbo and when I pull the dipstick at 3k it already smells like fuel.
I work at a Ford dealer changing oil on many of these engines. I can tell you to please use a Motorcraft filter or other good name brand filter with the inner cage. I have seen Fram and no name filters with no inner plastic cage supporting the element and have seen it partially collapsed on engines with more than 5k miles on the oil.
If you run past 5k i highly reccomend a filter change at 4-5k. Even the plastic cores are sketchy in my humble opinion. My wife's Mercedes takes a cartrige and its all metal.
I am not aware of any high dollar improved filters for the 2.7, but if it really makes you lose sleep, reloaction kits would let you run either a standard fl500s, fl820s, or equivalent. Or with a 3/4-16 thread you could run the fl400s, fl300s, fl1a or equivalent.
Thank you for the info knowing about the cage in the Motorcraft filter I will most likely stick with them or at leased always look for one with the inside cage. As for running the filter past 5k that's not much of a problem for me I plan to stick with around a 5k OCI on this car esp considering it is direct injected and twin turbo and when I pull the dipstick at 3k it already smells like fuel.
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't know about the oil filters but I really like your car....it must really fly with the 3.0T?
Did you buy it new or CPO?
I was a CPO had only 6,600 miles and did not have a mark on it the deal was so good it was hard to pass up and the 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty helped as well. The car is extremely quick put it in sport mode and it can be downright scary on full afterburner!
I'd love to find a deal like that.
I don't want to be a jerk and ask outright what you paid for it but maybe you could give me an idea of the percentage of sticker price that you paid? In other words....what percentage off the sticker?
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't know about the oil filters but I really like your car....it must really fly with the 3.0T?
Did you buy it new or CPO?
I was a CPO had only 6,600 miles and did not have a mark on it the deal was so good it was hard to pass up and the 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty helped as well. The car is extremely quick put it in sport mode and it can be downright scary on full afterburner!
I'd love to find a deal like that.
I don't want to be a jerk and ask outright what you paid for it but maybe you could give me an idea of the percentage of sticker price that you paid? In other words....what percentage off the sticker?
Originally Posted By: KMJ1992
I work at a Ford dealer changing oil on many of these engines. I can tell you to please use a Motorcraft filter or other good name brand filter with the inner cage. I have seen Fram and no name filters with no inner plastic cage supporting the element and have seen it partially collapsed on engines with more than 5k miles on the oil.
Yes this uses the same oil filter the 2.7L EB uses. Nice hot rod Fusion you've got there! Careful avoiding the Highway Patrol and mini-vans full of kids.
Interesting about the cage thing. I also recommend the oil filters where the end caps actually wrap around a bit, like the NAPA Gold 100050 or Wix WL10050 or Purolator L38154 or Motorcraft FL2062 (Note: Wix is the same as NAPA Gold) Frams don't wrap their end caps around, not recommending that brand. Wrapping allows some squirming of the end media attachment points without separating. About the cage support, none may have the full metal support style, only plastic like E-Core oil filters.
{The past problems with Motorcraft and Purolator oil filters tearing holes in them are usually only a problem with canister (not cartridge like this) style oil filters, so shouldn't be a problem with those. If you haven't heard of Purolator (and MC) tearing problems, just google " purolator oil filter tear " & select Images in google.}
Hope the 3.0L ecoboost still don't have these production problems! Watch your oil consumption carefully just in case:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4491310/Blown_2.7L_Ecoboost_Engines_-T
I work at a Ford dealer changing oil on many of these engines. I can tell you to please use a Motorcraft filter or other good name brand filter with the inner cage. I have seen Fram and no name filters with no inner plastic cage supporting the element and have seen it partially collapsed on engines with more than 5k miles on the oil.
Yes this uses the same oil filter the 2.7L EB uses. Nice hot rod Fusion you've got there! Careful avoiding the Highway Patrol and mini-vans full of kids.
Interesting about the cage thing. I also recommend the oil filters where the end caps actually wrap around a bit, like the NAPA Gold 100050 or Wix WL10050 or Purolator L38154 or Motorcraft FL2062 (Note: Wix is the same as NAPA Gold) Frams don't wrap their end caps around, not recommending that brand. Wrapping allows some squirming of the end media attachment points without separating. About the cage support, none may have the full metal support style, only plastic like E-Core oil filters.
{The past problems with Motorcraft and Purolator oil filters tearing holes in them are usually only a problem with canister (not cartridge like this) style oil filters, so shouldn't be a problem with those. If you haven't heard of Purolator (and MC) tearing problems, just google " purolator oil filter tear " & select Images in google.}
Hope the 3.0L ecoboost still don't have these production problems! Watch your oil consumption carefully just in case:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4491310/Blown_2.7L_Ecoboost_Engines_-T
Originally Posted By: pbm
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't know about the oil filters but I really like your car....it must really fly with the 3.0T?
Did you buy it new or CPO?
I was a CPO had only 6,600 miles and did not have a mark on it the deal was so good it was hard to pass up and the 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty helped as well. The car is extremely quick put it in sport mode and it can be downright scary on full afterburner!
I'd love to find a deal like that.
I don't want to be a jerk and ask outright what you paid for it but maybe you could give me an idea of the percentage of sticker price that you paid? In other words....what percentage off the sticker?
The car is loaded has every option the sticker new was a crazy $61,500 I paid $43,000 that was before the two trades I had.
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't know about the oil filters but I really like your car....it must really fly with the 3.0T?
Did you buy it new or CPO?
I was a CPO had only 6,600 miles and did not have a mark on it the deal was so good it was hard to pass up and the 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty helped as well. The car is extremely quick put it in sport mode and it can be downright scary on full afterburner!
I'd love to find a deal like that.
I don't want to be a jerk and ask outright what you paid for it but maybe you could give me an idea of the percentage of sticker price that you paid? In other words....what percentage off the sticker?
The car is loaded has every option the sticker new was a crazy $61,500 I paid $43,000 that was before the two trades I had.
Originally Posted By: KMJ1992
I work at a Ford dealer changing oil on many of these engines. I can tell you to please use a Motorcraft filter or other good name brand filter with the inner cage. I have seen Fram and no name filters with no inner plastic cage supporting the element and have seen it partially collapsed on engines with more than 5k miles on the oil.
If you run past 5k i highly reccomend a filter change at 4-5k. Even the plastic cores are sketchy in my humble opinion. My wife's Mercedes takes a cartrige and its all metal.
I am not aware of any high dollar improved filters for the 2.7, but if it really makes you lose sleep, reloaction kits would let you run either a standard fl500s, fl820s, or equivalent. Or with a 3/4-16 thread you could run the fl400s, fl300s, fl1a or equivalent.
+100 I too am weary of cartridges without an internal support cage and go even farther in as much as I seek a metallic inner cage, that's why I switched from a regular Lexus filter ($6) to a TRD one ($20) I sleep better now
I work at a Ford dealer changing oil on many of these engines. I can tell you to please use a Motorcraft filter or other good name brand filter with the inner cage. I have seen Fram and no name filters with no inner plastic cage supporting the element and have seen it partially collapsed on engines with more than 5k miles on the oil.
If you run past 5k i highly reccomend a filter change at 4-5k. Even the plastic cores are sketchy in my humble opinion. My wife's Mercedes takes a cartrige and its all metal.
I am not aware of any high dollar improved filters for the 2.7, but if it really makes you lose sleep, reloaction kits would let you run either a standard fl500s, fl820s, or equivalent. Or with a 3/4-16 thread you could run the fl400s, fl300s, fl1a or equivalent.
+100 I too am weary of cartridges without an internal support cage and go even farther in as much as I seek a metallic inner cage, that's why I switched from a regular Lexus filter ($6) to a TRD one ($20) I sleep better now
Originally Posted By: Pelican
... I seek a metallic inner cage, that's why I switched from a regular Lexus filter ($6) to a TRD one ($20) ...
Has a "regular Lexus" cartridge ever collapsed for lack of its own metal inner cage? If it's like my lesser Toyota cartridge ('tho not so much some supposedly equivalent aftermarket brands), the center tube in the cap should serve the same purpose.
... I seek a metallic inner cage, that's why I switched from a regular Lexus filter ($6) to a TRD one ($20) ...
Has a "regular Lexus" cartridge ever collapsed for lack of its own metal inner cage? If it's like my lesser Toyota cartridge ('tho not so much some supposedly equivalent aftermarket brands), the center tube in the cap should serve the same purpose.
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Originally Posted By: pbm
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't know about the oil filters but I really like your car....it must really fly with the 3.0T?
Did you buy it new or CPO?
I was a CPO had only 6,600 miles and did not have a mark on it the deal was so good it was hard to pass up and the 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty helped as well. The car is extremely quick put it in sport mode and it can be downright scary on full afterburner!
I'd love to find a deal like that.
I don't want to be a jerk and ask outright what you paid for it but maybe you could give me an idea of the percentage of sticker price that you paid? In other words....what percentage off the sticker?
The car is loaded has every option the sticker new was a crazy $61,500 I paid $43,000 that was before the two trades I had.
I agree that $61500 is a lot but $43K sounds very good for such a nice car with that low mileage. The 100K warranty is worth a lot too.... Good Luck with it.
Originally Posted By: pbm
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't know about the oil filters but I really like your car....it must really fly with the 3.0T?
Did you buy it new or CPO?
I was a CPO had only 6,600 miles and did not have a mark on it the deal was so good it was hard to pass up and the 100,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty helped as well. The car is extremely quick put it in sport mode and it can be downright scary on full afterburner!
I'd love to find a deal like that.
I don't want to be a jerk and ask outright what you paid for it but maybe you could give me an idea of the percentage of sticker price that you paid? In other words....what percentage off the sticker?
The car is loaded has every option the sticker new was a crazy $61,500 I paid $43,000 that was before the two trades I had.
I agree that $61500 is a lot but $43K sounds very good for such a nice car with that low mileage. The 100K warranty is worth a lot too.... Good Luck with it.
Originally Posted By: pbm
I agree that $61500 is a lot but $43K sounds very good for such a nice car with that low mileage. The 100K warranty is worth a lot too.... Good Luck with it.
It does make more sense to get a slightly-used 'Hot Rod Lincoln'. I'm suspicious of barely used Dodge Challenger Hemis, Chevy Camaro SS's, and some of the Fast&Furious style hot-hatches, all which tend to be purchased by young ones that can barely afford the payments and who bail out of the loan in 6 months after treating it rough & letting it run low on oil, etc.
With a Lincoln, it's demographic tends to keep an eye on things better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R7l7nDuj1o Hot Rod Lincoln song, goofy fun footage
I agree that $61500 is a lot but $43K sounds very good for such a nice car with that low mileage. The 100K warranty is worth a lot too.... Good Luck with it.
It does make more sense to get a slightly-used 'Hot Rod Lincoln'. I'm suspicious of barely used Dodge Challenger Hemis, Chevy Camaro SS's, and some of the Fast&Furious style hot-hatches, all which tend to be purchased by young ones that can barely afford the payments and who bail out of the loan in 6 months after treating it rough & letting it run low on oil, etc.
With a Lincoln, it's demographic tends to keep an eye on things better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R7l7nDuj1o Hot Rod Lincoln song, goofy fun footage
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