I'll try 10w-30 the next oil change. This thing burned almost 1qt of oil in 700 Miles. That's crazy
2AZ-FE Toyota engine burning oil; additive to reduce consumption?
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I'll try 10w-30 the next oil change. This thing burned almost 1qt of oil in 700 Miles. That's crazy
You just poured B12 in the spark plug oil and turned the engine over? I just put new NGK plugs in this thing
No. I removed the plugs, poured Berryman's in each cylinder and let it soak 24 hours. I cranked it a couple of times with the plugs still out, and poured in another bottle. In total it got found bottles of solvent over about a week's time. I did loosely install the plugs between soaks just to reduce evaporation but I never cranked it with the plugs in place. Before I installed the for good I cranked out with a towel over the open holes to catch any remaining solvent, then added two ounces of TCW-3 two-cycle oil and let it soak down. The oil helps it build compression faster because the cylinder;inder walls are stripped bare after four cans of Berryman's. Even with the oil it takes forever to start.
You can reuse your new plugs after the soak.
I’ve not used berryman’s but have experienced reduced oil consumption over time by using cleaner in the sump. I ran half a can of sea foam pretty much constantly in a particular used Volvo of mine. Over 15k miles the consumption completely stopped. I changed it a little early, maybe 3,000 miles and then 5,000 after that until moving just to oil only, the 7500 miles per change. Worth it.
Cleaner in the sump makes me worry about bearings and other frictional surfaces not getting enough lubrication.
Sure. Keeping that in mind, that’s why I kept it at half bottle. I drove normally but didn’t floor it. I did run good oil, penzoil platinum.
I think my next oil change I'll switch to 10w-30 oil and see if that makes a difference. If not, B12 it is
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if you are feeling upto it, 0w40 mobil 1
Anyhing to worry about when cranking the engine over with B12 in it? Also, would I need to change the oil after?
You absolutely must remember to remove the plugs before cranking or you will hydrolock your engine and probably bend a connecting rod. I laid a heavy towel across the spark plug wells to catch any solvent that was thrown out, and I also removed the fuse for the EFI so it wasn't spraying gas, but I think that's probably overkill.
I certainly wouldn't drive it with two bottles of solvent in the oil. I did mine when I was changing the oil so I just left the drain plug out and the used oil pan underneath the car while it dripped thru.
It's extremely tough to clean out the oil control rings once they have been stopped up. A piston soak of some sort is your best bet combined with some serious italian tune ups. There was a guy around here that had some luck with piston soaks and various cleaners for reducing his consumption. Perhaps a search will yields some results on that?
Prevention is the best remedy if you do make progress. I have an 07 with almost 310,000 miles which has been in the family since it's been new. Its had oil changes at 5000 miles using M1 0w20 AFE since day one. It has burned a quart every 5000 miles and has never increased above that rate.
Prevention is the best remedy if you do make progress. I have an 07 with almost 310,000 miles which has been in the family since it's been new. Its had oil changes at 5000 miles using M1 0w20 AFE since day one. It has burned a quart every 5000 miles and has never increased above that rate.
You do have to make sure the cylinders are dry or very dry. There shouldn't be much if any spray when cranking with the starter with the spark plugs out. If I ever do this again, I'll probably add a little 2-stroke oil into he last doses or give each cylinder a blast of fogging oil. I did worry a little about the rings on a dry cylinder.
You absolutely should change the oil and almost right away (minutes not hours) before driving. It's a high dose of solvent which thins the oil and may knock debris loose. I'm pretty sure the oil was gritty after just 5 minutes of run time. Also some oil pans are painted on the inside. I'd hate to see the solvent strip paint inside the pan, so I'd leave the oil in the pan during the flush. Obviously, you'd dump the oil before cranking if you don't want to run on solvent rich oil. I do think that the flush would be beneficial even if you didn't run the engine with solvent in the oil. I still have the Audi's filter. I should cut it apart to see what it's caught.
Ehhh, now that I think about it, 10W-30 might be too thick for Chicago Winters. However, temperatures have not gotten as low as say -30 here since 2018~. Next oil change I'll switch to 5W-30. If I don't notice a slight shift in oil consumption with 5W-30, I'll go with 5W-40. If there is no difference with 5W-40, I'll go with 10W-30. If still no different with 10W-30, B12 it is then. Or I'll sell the car after winter.
I would actually let the solvent from the piston soak get into the oil and idle the engine afterwards for 10-15 minutes to bring up to temp and then change the oil.
If the rings are stuck because of carbon, the rest of the engine can probably use some cleaning as well.
If the rings are stuck because of carbon, the rest of the engine can probably use some cleaning as well.
That's what I'm thinking of doing. If I end up keeping the car, I'll do the piston soak when it's warm out.
the 10w30 worked for my old camry 2azfe but then again... way down here it never gets below 27 F.
I guess 10W-30 can withstand temperatures as low as -13F and as high as 86F. It hasn't gotten that cold here in Chicago since 2018~. But, it's gotten hotter than 86F here before. I'm going to use 10W-30 next oil change. I already went through a quart of 5w-20 within 800 miles.
I think a piston soak is the quickest way to clean up the stuck oil control rings short of actually taking the rings out and either cleaning them or replacing them.
Some oils may do a little cleaning of the rings but it's not going to be very quick.
Some oils may do a little cleaning of the rings but it's not going to be very quick.
Yeah, I might have to do that. I added maybe half a qt of oil Monday? Already down to the minimum mark. I drive 20 miles both ways to work. Starting to burn oil like crazy now.
I work at a Toyota dealer. We have had some success using BG EPR.
It an oil additive that cleans carbon from the oil rings. Pretty much just warm up the engine, add the EPR to the oil and idle the engine for 20-30 minutes and change the oil.
I do agree a Barrymans piston soak as described above could help.
It an oil additive that cleans carbon from the oil rings. Pretty much just warm up the engine, add the EPR to the oil and idle the engine for 20-30 minutes and change the oil.
I do agree a Barrymans piston soak as described above could help.
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