2023 Hyundai Kona N-Line 1.6L Turbo 0W-20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 8157 km OCI (10,260 km Odometer)

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I trust the K&n filter for my daily needs. Any straggling debris that somehow escapes the oil net, and enters the chamber is instantly incinerated in the combustion process, a non issue in my opinion.
Silica is not incinerated. It’s already a stable oxide and it’s abrasive.
 
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With all the chatter re fuel dilution, now I'm trying to figure out exactly what minimizes it and what exacerbates it. Yes the car was driven 90% city, mostly to drive kids around. But I would drive a minimum of 15 mins (even though my kids' school is 6 km away) to get the oil up to operating temps before I head home. Good practice?
What fuel octane are you running?
 
On the oil, if it calls for 0w-20, run 0w-20. The people here parroting the thicker is better argument, are not smarter than the people who designed your car or the oil it uses

I find it funny that in 2023 people are still afraid of deviating from the holy owners manual recommendation for oil viscosity. 🤦🏻‍♂️

All engines rated for 0w8 can easily run 15w40 in the middle of summer without any issues. It’s not a big deal.
 
I find it funny that in 2023 people are still afraid of deviating from the holy owners manual recommendation for oil viscosity. 🤦🏻‍♂️

All engines rated for 0w8 can easily run 15w40 in the middle of summer without any issues. It’s not a big deal.
Color me crazy, but I trust companies with multi million dollar R&D departments and decades of manufacturing experience, over some random guy on a forum who brags about saving $.07 on an oil filter by buying bulk
 
Mine specifically calls for a 0W-20 viscosity (1.6T). Funny though that my manual specifically recommends Shell Helix. I have no idea what differentiates Helix from PUP or even PP 0w-20. On that matter, it's odd that PP 0W-20 is dexos 1 gen 3 certified but the PUP equivalent isn't.

That said, my car is currently on PP 5w-20.

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I hear y'all re air filter. I'll give it the current oil interval and then I'll make a decision when time to replace.
Yet, my 2022 Kia Soul manual recommends 5W-30 for the 1.6T.
 
On the oil, if it calls for 0w-20, run 0w-20. The people here parroting the thicker is better argument, are not smarter than the people who designed your car or the oil it uses
It's not a matter of who is smarter, rather, it's about different goals and agendas. The agenda of those designing the car (mpgs, keeping costs down, simply getting engine through warranty) don't have to align with the agenda of the car owners (longevity, trouble-free ownership). Clearly, Hyundai/Kia can make crap engines so to sit here a pretend like their recommendations can't be questioned and they are above reproach for their less than stellar engines is just silly.

Just because they know the right thing to do doesn't mean they will choose to do the right thing.
 
On the oil, if it calls for 0w-20, run 0w-20. The people here parroting the thicker is better argument, are not smarter than the people who designed your car or the oil it uses

Color me crazy, but I trust companies with multi million dollar R&D departments and decades of manufacturing experience, over some random guy on a forum who brags about saving $.07 on an oil filter by buying bulk
One of the more eye-opening experiences I've had was when I started searching the internet for owner's manuals from other countries. It's amazing how widely-ranging oil recommendations can be for the same engine, depending on what country the vehicle was purchased in and that country's fuel economy regulations.

The US version of my 2018 CRV owner's manual only recommends 0W-20. The European version for the same vehicle, same engine recommends:
0W20, 0W30, 0W40, 5W30, and 5W40 for all temperatures, and:
10W30, and 10W40 for temps above -20C.
They also call out ACEA A1/B1, A3/B3, and A5/B5.

In 2019, the European owner's manual changed their recommendations to:
0W20, 0W30 for any temp,
5W30 for any temp higher than -30C, and
10W30 for any temp higher than -25C.
They also changed the ACEA oil sequence to C2/C3.
 
All one has to do is to read a CAFE award letter to understand why owner's manuals are written the way they are. It's literally designed to nearly frighten anyone from deviating from the recommended grade.

"Engineers" aren't involved as in stating the recommended grade is "best", They are involved to ensure that the automaker's predetermined recommended grade does not cause excessive wear.

Physics still rules however, that lower HT/HS oils cause increased wear and no engine is harmed by an oil with a higher HT/HS. For some of us that is important, for some it is not. The only benefit to lower HT/HS oils is a somewhat decreased fuel consumption. If that is your one and only concern then go for it.
 
Unless internal engine clearances are different from industry standards, it's usually a cafe situation for a touch better gas mileage. I remember years ago looking at inboard boat engines as they were marketed as 'much stronger, ect' than the same engines in the cars=total bs. They may have had 4 bolt mains vs 2 bolt, but the performance version of the autos also did. I have rebuilt/repaired various engines over the last 45 years and have found a number of bogus marketing 'games' played.
 
One of the more eye-opening experiences I've had was when I started searching the internet for owner's manuals from other countries. It's amazing how widely-ranging oil recommendations can be for the same engine, depending on what country the vehicle was purchased in and that country's fuel economy regulations.
Funny how the UK manual for the Type R (the high performance version) recommends Honda 0w-20 as the default even though Honda makes their own oil in a thicker flavor

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Its not until you get into the heat of the Middle East (and only some parts of it) where they expand that selection.

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The lesson here is US owners manuals are wrong, and other countries are right, unless you disagree with those specific countries in which case they are wrong again.
 
It's not that funny, the UK has their own fuel economy standards, first from the EU and now their own. It is based on CO2 emissions and indicates a maximum HT/HS.

Not about "right or wrong" it's about regulatory requirements. And as usual physics gets lost somewhere along the way.
 
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